Fuel guage sending unit/ Not drop tank??

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Is it possible to change the fuel guage sending unit without dropping the fuel tank? The reason I ask is that I just had mine replaced under warranty and it is completly obvious that the fuel tank was not removed. There is still rust on the bolts/threads that hold the tank up (I looked at them the same day). The guage was working almost all the time so I can't tell if it was replaced. I don't think it can be done but please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

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99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options

 

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I understand you can remove all the bed bolts except the rear 2 and lift the front of the bed up enough to do the job

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat 80gal fuel capacity.
Member NRA/USPSA

 

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Or remove the two on the drivers side and jack up that side. Don't forget to remove the fill and vent hoses.

 

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A couple of cautions: Put a piece of carpet or something like that on each side of the rear bumper to keep it from scratching your paint when you lift the front. Get some lumber and jack stands to block up the bed while you are working on the tank. It's kinda like a mouse trap and if it falls you are the mouse!

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 08-14-2000). ]

 

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I talked to the service advisor today. It turns out they loosen the rear strap on the tank and "lean" the fuel tank down to get at the sending unit. Thats not how it's supposed to be done.

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99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options

 

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That's how I did mine (leaned mine down on one side). Worked fine.

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98. 5 3500 QC 4x4, Driftwood/Mist Grey, 5 spd, 3. 54, 19. 5 Alcoa's, 245/70-19. 5 Michelin's, Ranchhand front bumper, Ranchhand rear bumper, Ranchhand toolbox, "Scotty Air", TST PowerMax2, Autometer Gauges, Centerforce clutch, Upgraded fuel lines (JRE and Aeroquip), MagHytec Diff Cover, PacBrake

 

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Hey Jeff, How long or how many miles has it been since you changed your sending unit?

 

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Changed the first one in my 95 just after warranty was up at about 37-38,000. Traded it in with 70,000 still on the second one. Changed it out in my 98 with 45,000. At 80,000 now, still on the second one. It does not require an entire sending unit, just the float on the side. Cost significantly less. The contacts on the level wear out with use and just that part needs to be replaced.

 

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Thanks, guess I'll break down and take care of mine on my next empty tank.

 

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I did not know DC would sell just a part of the sending unit instead of requiring you to buy the whole thing. What is the part number?

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD, Amsoil fluids and bypass filter, K&N, Rancho 9000s. NRA Life Member.

 

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Just wanted to bring it to the top to see if anyone would answer Tim's question, I'd like to know too. Thanks

 

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The part number I archived from a mail list posting is:
Fuel Sender 04797738. Cost is reported to be in the neighborhood of $40.

Dave

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1994 2500HD 4X4 modified for off-road camping
2001 2500 ETH/DEE QC SB 4X4
Fritz's Dodge Ram Tech Page

 

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I have replaced the sending unit on my 96 twice. Once at about 70K and last week at 163K. I can't imagine raising the bed to be easier than dropping the tank. Just make sure it is very low on fuel, use a buddy and a floor jack. If you are a flexible person you can sit up between the fender well and the tank. Once you disconnect the fittings (this is the tricky part use a flash light and take your time) disconnect the tank hose and vent on the filler tube side, loosen the straps and with your buddy lower down and pull it into the light of day.
You can loosen the nut by wrapping a piece of v-belt around it and using your hand and the belt like a strap wrench. If its stubborn get you buddy to help double the strap wrench routine. Remove and replace the sender and check the filter. Its its dirty clean or replace it. This is about an hr. procedure if you are good with the connectors. Since Chrysler has not felt the need to address this problem you might as well get it down to a routine because it will fail again.

 

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The main advantage of raising the bed is that you don't need to get under the truck and everything is wide open and visable. Also the tank fuel level doesn't matter at all. Same number of bolts either way.

 

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I moved the bed.

Removed the 8 (I think) bolts, took out two screws from the licence plate holder, unplugged a couple of wiring harnesses.

Got my neighbor and his three teenage girls to help.

Lifted the bed and moved it back about 3 feet, the front part was resting on the tires, and the back part was resting on a piece of wood on the bumper.

Now had plenty of room to work.

Entire operation took under 2 hours. I will do the next one the same way.

'96 4x4 Stick

 

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I will have to agree with SMorneau, it sounds a lot easier to drop the tank. That is the way I changed my 2nd. one and the way the dealer did the 1st.

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Paul A. Schmidt
95, 4X4, SLT 2500, 5 spd. , 4. 10, 270 hp. ,675ft. lb. TST, AFC spring kit,215hp. injectors, Pacbrake, Walker muffler,
GearVendor O. D. , CenterForce Dual Friction clutch.
Eastern PA.

 

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Watched the dealer drop the tank an change it on the bench. Looks like they will be doing it again as my second one is acting up too.

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98 2500 SLT, QC 12V, 4X4, Auto, 4:10's, SB, LSD, Alpine alarm, Tekonsha brake controller, 5th wheel hitch, DeeZee stainless boards, Stull billet grille, MTX Thunder sub enclosure, Kenwood amp, Trans. temp gauge, CB radio, White/Driftwood, Camel interior. BINFORD TOOLS decal on rear window

 

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With all the problems with the sending unit I think DC should provide all the trucks with a dump body, at no cost. This make it real easy to gain access to the unit. Raise the dump body, unscrew the cap, change the float.

 

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LOL mfburns #ad
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