fuel heater element

[Mikeydo]

Yesterday I noticed a fuel leak. The dealer tells me I need a new fuel heater element. My truck has 68000 miles on it. I haven't heard of this issue on our 3rd gen. trucks. So I was wondering:

Is this unusual? Is this part likely to fail again? Is there an aftermarket replacement that is an upgrade to the stock part? Is there anything else I should be watching for?

Thanks.

 

[Mikeydo]

for some reason, my truck profile is not showing up as my signature. Details are:

2006 SLT QC SB 4X4 48RE TransferFlow Aux. fuel tank Heavy Duty front springs Bilstein 5100s CFM+ DPP Cool Red Hose kit Walker muffler 17 x 9 Mickey Thompson Classic IIs 35" Kumho Road Venture M/Ts

 

[Mikeydo]

LOL:

 

[AH64ID]

I haven't heard of that issue before. I would check the banjo fittings really close on the inlet (back) and outlet (bottom) of the fuel filter canister. The heater is integral to the canister, and doesn't have its own inlet/outlet's.

 

[Mikeydo]

I will do that. I forgot to note that I have a GDP Fuel Boss. Would that stress the system at all?

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

It seems I recall that some 2nd gen trucks had this issue? Perhaps the seal around the wires going to the heater were leaking. Someone resealed it without a new part. Might do a search in 2nd gen for it.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[rbattelle]

I would suggest that any assembly holding liquid under any pressure has the potential to leak.

As such, it's not unreasonable that you might've blown the seal in the fuel heater element, and it's probably no cause for any particular concern. If it were me, I'd pull the heater element and see about making a new seal for it.

I don't know what a GDP Fuel Boss is, but what pressure is it set to?

-Ryan

 

[AH64ID]

I will do that. I forgot to note that I have a GDP Fuel Boss. Would that stress the system at all?

Yes it could, it really depends on what pressure you have it set at. The OE canister is only good to 30 psi, and really shouldn't see more than 20, and the CP3 only needs 15, per Bosch.



You can do a test yourself be cleaning it up with brake cleaner and once its dry as a bone then put some baby power on it, and fire it up. You should see a leak as soon as it develops.

 

[Mikeydo]

OK. Sorry for the delay in responding. Had to help set up the kids' Halloween party.

I checked the banjo bolts. They seem to be tight, but the dealer did say that they had tightened something when they looked at the truck on Friday. They told me it would be safe to drive until the part they ordered comes in. I haven't seen any fuel on the garage floor since Friday. However, the bottom fitting was very wet and fuel could be seen in a recess below the drain valve. The canister itself appears wet on the side but I can't tell if it has leaked from where the lid meets the canister body or the fuel has been blown onto it.

I spoke with GDP this morning and they told me that the pump is set to 18 psi, so I don't think that their pump would cause the leak.

I don't understand how the fuel heater element could be causing the leak unless its seal is to the canister wall, but I will have the dealer fit the part when it comes in and see if the leak comes back.

Thanks again for all your responses.

 

[AH64ID]

Do you not have a fuel psi gauge?

I also don't see how it could be the heat element and not the canister, unless its the plug seal.

 

[Mikeydo]

That's the same question that the guy at GDP asked me. No, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. I suppose I should get one. I have been holding off on gauges until I upgrade the transmission and then get a programmer.

 

[rbattelle]

I have been holding off on gauges until I upgrade the transmission and then get a programmer.

This is sort of funny because you're doing things in exactly the wrong order. Gauges first, then modifications!



-Ryan

 

[Mikeydo]

Well my thinking was that I didn't need gauges until I was making substantially more power...

 

[MQuirin]

How do you have the fuel line routed? Did you run it from the tank, to Fuel Boss, to the stock filter canister, then to the CP3? Or, is it tank, filter canister, Fuel Boss, CP3? Are you using the stock FP to prime, then shutting it off with a Hobbs switch?

 

[Mikeydo]

I got the truck back on Friday. My bill of repair states "leaking fuel heater element replaced". I have not seen any more fuel on the garage floor.

I finally got under the truck this morning. The fuel line goes from the tank to the Fuel Boss then goes to a T-fitting, one line to the canister, the other back to the tank (I think).

How do you guys work on these things? It was like going spelunking under there.

 

[MQuirin]

It's important that you check the pressure after the Fuel Boss, especially at or near red line. That pump supplies increased pressure the faster it is turned. It's possible that you are over pressurizing the canister.

 

[Mikeydo]

I will check with GDP, but as I remember from our conversation, I was told that the Fuel Boss was set at 18 psi. I assumed that meant max. pressure and so wouldn't hurt the canister.

Also, regarding the earlier question, my understanding is that the OE fuel pump is indeed used to prime and switches off automatically.

I really like the Fuel Boss. The truck seems to run better with it.

 

[AH64ID]

The fuel boss has a bypass regulator, so at higher rpms the flow increases, but the pressure will stay at 18 and the excess fuel goes back to the tank, assuming a working bypass regulator.