Fuel heater filter help

[Nate Skate]

Have not ever cleaned my fuel heater screen. I know where the heater is. COuld someone tell me how to get to the screen. I have been a reader of TDR for a year or more and all of your info has saved me big bucks by diy tips and not gettin RAMmed by the dealer. Thanx everyone for the help and thought joining was worth the money I have saved.

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96 Ram 2500 4x4 cc, 130,000 miles and counting, TST 280HP,K&N,Cat&muffler tag team fought w/torch, torch won.

 

[C Schomer]

Nate, you can take it off from above. The bottom of the heater has a screw on bowl with a hex lug on the bottom of the bowl. Reach down there with a 17mm wrench and loosen it(right hand thread-push wrench to the front). Then it should come off by hand. At least, that's how it works on my 97! The screen is in the bowl. It's so fine, fuel will fill the screen and it looks like slick plastic. I blow mine out to be sure it's clean. I haven't had to replace the o-ring yet. Have fun! Watch out for the wire tie ends that fillet your arms! Craig

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, AFC kit, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Straight Thru Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, 24CKFS Sunnybrook, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!

 

[Joe G.]

I like to do it from the bottom. Use a long extension with a u-joint so you don't get a diesel bath. It will leak a little less than a cup when it comes loose with either method so a drip pan is a good idea. From the bottom you can see what you are doing and don't have to reach thru the mess like you do from the top.

I've trimmed all the tie wrap ends I can find. Got tired of donating blood to work on it. #ad
#ad


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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[Missouri Mule]

Nate Skate,
You need to get under truck. Usually I slide under by drivers door then under the starter. Bring a 10 mm socket,( as I recall,) just in case I'm wrong bring all of the mm sockets you own.
You will see the bolt right in the middle of the heater/screen casing. Unloosen it( wear glasses and mask diesel will flow)Just kidding only a little diesel will come out but don't have your head directly under the heater. Good idea have a cup handy to catch the fuel in. The screen is in the bottom as I recall there is retainer nut, unloosen it and screen should come off so you can clean. Put back together in reverse order. There mite be a o-ring and/or gasket.

My screen was clean but I live in the sunny south. Members who live farther north in colder climates have white substance on screen, probably wax particles the diesel fuel can become in cold weather(parifin).

Since you feel entergetic you mite want to schedule in the filter(check out) in the fuel tank in the near future.
Can't help with this one, never done it.


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Bill Thomas
Missouri Mule - 96 Wht 4X4 ST CC,5 spd, 3. 54, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards.
99 Freightliner bl/wht FL60 ISB-5. 9 24v,215 hp,520 tq,6 spd, 3. 59 nsr,16 ft box, 19. 5 tires,Wt/gvw 11,000/23000

 

[Cooker]

Check this link out for some help: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm

Here is a link to some more info for you including the Fleetguard part number if you'd like to replace it. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/003406.html

I paid about $7. 50 for it at my Cummins dealer. The only reason I bought it was becasue my o-ring was looking questionable. I see no need to replace the screen itself, unless it is damaged.


[This message has been edited by Cooker (edited 04-13-2001). ]

 

[SlyBones]

After you are done spilling diesel fuel on your old rags you put on to do this job, take them to a public laundry mat and dont stick them in your wifes brand new washer. Trust me on this one.

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1997 2500 4x4, CC, Auto, 3. 54 LSD, 68K, Everything inc Leather, K&N, 4" BD cat-back, otherwise stock, Isspro Gauges(3), 285/75/16 on Alcola's, RS9000's, Molded Side Steps w/ Ground Effects, Chrome Trim, Canopy, ProFlaps F&R, BedLiner, Aux. Lighting F&R, and tons more.

 

[Nate Skate]

Thanx for suggestions but you know I coundnt take them all to heart. I didnt wear the mask and should have. Took a diesel bath. Its better than gas. My filter was packed with crud. There was even a couple of drops of water in the bottom. Tons of rust too. From what I've read from others it seems like this is unusual. Did it late tonight so didnt have a chance to take it for a reeeal run. Will let you know if theres an increase in power or mileage.

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96 Ram 2500 4x4 cc, 130,000 miles and counting, TST 280HP,K&N,Cat&muffler tag team fought w/torch, torch won.

 

[Joe G.]

Nate Skate,

If I were you I would think about somewhere else to get fuel. The only thing I've ever found in my pre-filter was something brown that looked like a bug carcas. Can't figure out how that might have got in there if it really was a bug. Otherwise sparking clear everytime I've looked at in. 163K miles so far.

 

[illflem]

Nate, if your screen was that clogged I'd consider dropping the tank to clean the filter in there and to flush the tank. Then do what Joe said. With over 200k combined miles on my two rigs all I have ever found on the prefilter were black specks, I think they were leftovers from manufacturing the tank.

 

[Nate Skate]

Dropping the tank sounds like a good suggestion. I also found the bug remnants. But when I squished them between my fingers they crushed like dirt. Was pretty disqusting. Glad to have that little filter though. Thanx again for the replys.

 

[Charlie Parrish]

Is this a normal maintenance item. I've never done this. Is the screen really needed? Wouldn't the filter catch the stuff also? Mine is a 95 with just over 100K.
Thanks
Chas

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I may not be much, but I'm all I think about.

95 that is lightly used. Dressed out nicely with 19. 5 wheels from Rickson Truck.

 

[illflem]

Charlie, some old timers call this type of prefilter a gravel screen, it's main function is to protect the lift pump from damage if a large hard chunk gets sucked up, you can't really call it a filter even though it is pretty fine. I have only checked my pre-filter a couple times in 125k, both were a waste of time, but it only takes one bad tank of fuel to change that. I get 98% of my fuel from my own tank which has it's own filter so I feel safe not checking the pre-filter. I have often thought that if I was traveling, buying fuel from unknown sources all the time that I would install an inline filter back by the tank, many different types are available, and it would be a heck of a lot easier than dealing with the heater filter. You can even buy types that are water traps with a cleanable screen, made with a glass bowl so you can see what is going on.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[Charlie Parrish]

Thanks Illflem. Will probably crawl under mine next week when it warms up as I get fuel from KS to SC, even though it's mostly at major truck stops though not always.
Chas


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I may not be much, but I'm all I think about.

95 that is lightly used. Dressed out nicely with 19. 5 wheels from Rickson Truck.

 

[RBrunson]

Bill, I think they add that little brown bug to the fuel. I found one in my pre-filter also. Other than that it was nice and clean at 70,000mi. Just a thought for thoes of you with the tools, I am thinking of drilling and taping the bottom cover and add one of thoes brass petcock valves for draining purposes. Like the fuel filter. . it is alot better changing it when the fuel is drained. Just something to think about the next time you have it off.