Fuel in oil

[Billy]

Hello everyone, I just joined TDR. 2003 Laramie 3500 High output 5.9 180,000 miles single wheels 6' bed all stock (LT285/75R17 Tires) Brought it new in the box LOL

I have a fuel in oil issue. It's a long story so here goes. I noticed fuel/oil in my driveway and checked under my truck, it was wet with diesel and smoke was coming out of the blow by tube under the truck. I checked my oil and it was around 5" above safe mark. After some research I came to think maybe my fuel connectors were leaking. (connects to injectors) I came to this conclusion by the following information: Truck starts right up and runs great, no smoke. I found a leak at the fuel line to my filter canister. I will change that. So what I did so far is change my oil, I got a little over 2 gallons of diesel out of my pan. Not good.... I replaced the fuel filter also. I drove the truck about 30 miles and the oil had grown about 2" on the oil stick. I ordered new connector tubes and are replacing them now. I have one in, when I took the 2nd one out it was wet with diesel, I'm not sure if that's normal or not. The dealer wanted to replace all injectors, tubes for $6000.00. I can't do that so I have been reading and reading and reading. LOL I joined TDR and just ordered a service manual. Any input from ya'll would be great!! I'm no mechanic but I'm going to try to beat this problem for less then the 6K hopefully with help from ya'll. Thank in advance

 

[sag2]

A lose connector tube will not allow fuel into the crankcase. More likely a cracked injector body or the seal in the CP3. While you have the valve cover off fire up the truck and watch the oil in the head around each injector. If you dip a piece of white paper in the oil by each injector the non leaking ones will coat the paper nice and dark, but the one with fuel leaking will dilute the oil below the injector and not make the paper as dark. Try the free stuff first before you spend any more money. Pull the FCA connector while it's idling (it will rattle like crazy but it's OK for a minute or two) to bump up the rail pressure and make any leak easier to find.
And welcome to TDR. Glad to have you here.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yeah, it is not a Dmax that ANY leak on the connector tubes goes right into the oil. The connector tubes ar ein the return gallery in the head and separated from the oiling system by an oring on the injector. As sag2 said cracked injector or CP-3 seal is the usual culprit with a bad injector o-ring being a possibility.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

Do you have any chips. Like both said, I have only seen cracked injectors or cp3 seal cause fuel in oil

 

[Billy]

That lady said this would happen, ya'll would be very helpful. Thank you.
Until I get the service CD, I have no idea how the fuel system works. I can't wait to take the mystery out of this. So what we are saying is physically the fuel can not get into the oil by the connector tube? Like I said I'm putting a lot of stock into the service manual to get me straight on this system.
Do ya'll think I should put the old connector tube back in? Does anyone have the toque specs. on that?
How would I check the CP3 pump for leaks into the motor?
With a crack in the injector I assume the truck will run fine because it does, no smoke, misses, etc. I own and drive a big truck for a living and have seen an injector good bad in another truck, the truck ran really bad. Maybe it was something else besides a crack in it.
What is a FCA connector and how long can I leave it unplugged while I check for fuel?
I have no chips installed in the truck, I really don't know what that is. (Not trying to sound like a rookie, but I am. LOL)
So to recap: The fuel can ONLY get into my oil thru the injector or CP3 pump?
I am really looking forward to the service manual for this truck, I really want to understand the fuel system from tank to injector.
Thank ya'll very much for your help in my problem, after really reading up on this truck I have found a appreciation for this motor, it's a really nice truck/motor. I didn't realize it until now.
I have some other issues with the heat/defrost but I'll get to that after this issue is resolved with help from ya'll, thanks again for all your help.
Well, it's off to the auto part store for a good toque wrench. I'll check back here often. I'm not sure what I could do for ya'll but I live in VA. Beach so if you think of anything I will be glad to do it!

 

[Billy]

Does anyone know of a good fuel filter system that mounts under the hood, it seems the filter system on this motor is the weak link. I will install a new filter system before I start to drive it again. Thanks.

 

[AllianceDiesel]

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/226.htm. Here are some ideas. I personally run the vpmax under intake one but it will depend on where your throttle position sensor is. Also glacier diesel has some good setups too.

As far as your connector tubes, you need to loose the injector hold down bolts to install the tubes the right way. And yes a connector tube leak will not cause fuel in the oil. It will only cause hard starts.

What you need to do to find a cracked injector is pull the valve cover and then pull the elctrical connector off the fca which is on the injection pump. Then start the engine and look for a mist coming from an injector. Use a piece of cardboard, do not use your hand because the fueo pressure will be around 25,000 psi. Hopefully the other guys can help with the cp3 leak becuase we just installed the pump out of desperation.

 

[cerberusiam]

Glacier Diesel Products has a kit that can install a 3 um filter between the OE filter and th eCP-3, if you have a manual trans. The auto becomes problematic due to the location of the APPS.

Yes, fuel cannot physically get into the oil unless a seal fails somewhere. Either on the CP-3 shaft or the sealing ring on an injector. With the amount of fuel in your oil an injector would be almost obvious when looking at the injectors with the VC off. It can frequnetly show a haze around the injector and as was noted the oil will be thin.

FCA is the only electricla connection on the CP-3, just a little solenoid on the back side of the pump.

Examine the connector tube for problems, obvious damage, marring on the tip. If it looks decent you may be able to reuse them. However, the tubes take a lot of pressure over time and can weaken, plus, there are edge filters in the tip that can become plugged and deformed over time. The $300 for the tube set is well worth the money.

 

[Billy]

OK, what is a fca? Is that the elec. plug on the CP3? The cardboard is to be held on the top of each injector and I will see product there? How does unplugging the "fca" increase fuel pressure and how long can I keep it unplugged? What will happen if I keep it unplugged too long?
I will go ahead and use the connector tubes I purchased since I have them.
Is it normal for the truck to run good with a leak in a injector? Thanks for all the help.
Does anyone have the torques on the connectors and fuel line going to them?

 

[sag2]

OK, take a look at this procedure. I will try and find a good illustration of the fuel system for you.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...nstall-procedure-with-photos?highlight=photos

 

[Billy]

Thanks sag2

 

[sag2]

This diagram shows the high pressure system. I drew in the fuel return inside the head that leaking connector tubes would go into and exit out the back of the head.

View attachment HPCR Fuel Return.pdf

 

[Billy]

Thank you sag2, that's a great picture, it really helps. Do you know if there is some kind of test to check for leaks in that cp3 pump?

 

[HHhuntitall]

Great pic and diag, Sag. You guys sound like you got it figured out....

 

[sag2]

There isn't a good way to test the pump. Eliminate everything else and the only thing left is the pump.

 

[Billy]

Thanks sag2 So really after I test the injectors that pump is the only thing left, right? Can I just replace the seal in it?
So I'm almost done with those connectors tubes, is there anything I have to do special to get the truck started? I assume somehow diesel will have to fill the lines with no air before it will start. I just replace the batteries about 1 month ago so I should have plenty of juice.

 

[Billy]

I still haven't got my service manual yet, I can't wait. I was looking at the rail and traced a line going to the back of the motor, that looks impossible to change, would the motor have to come out? Mine is OK with no leaks, I was just wondering.

 

[HHhuntitall]

To bleed the air, turn the key on and bump the starter, not trying to start it, releasing it immediately to the run position, and you should hear the fuel pump running. It should run 15-20 seconds, then try it again after it stops. Doing that 3-4 times should bleed most of the air out of the system if your lift pump is working correctly.

I don't recommend trying to work on the CP3 injection pump yourself. That is not a beginner lesson, no offense.

The line on the back of the engine goes into the back of the cylinder head, and that is the fuel return line, where excess fuel and air is purged from the rail and injectors. It joins up with the line from the injectors to return to the tank, taking air and heated diesel with it. It shouldn't be necessary to take it off unless you need to remove the head.

 

[sag2]

To bleed the air, turn the key on and bump the starter, not trying to start it, releasing it immediately to the run position, and you should hear the fuel pump running. It should run 15-20 seconds, then try it again after it stops. Doing that 3-4 times should bleed most of the air out of the system if your lift pump is working correctly.

I don't recommend trying to work on the CP3 injection pump yourself. That is not a beginner lesson, no offense.

The line on the back of the engine goes into the back of the cylinder head, and that is the fuel return line, where excess fuel and air is purged from the rail and injectors. It joins up with the line from the injectors to return to the tank, taking air and heated diesel with it. It shouldn't be necessary to take it off unless you need to remove the head.

Sounds correct. I'm not sure if they will sell you a seal, it may be a Bosch item only. It probably comes free when you buy a reman pump!

 

[Billy]

Thank. As far as taking offence, I dont ya'll are a big help. Having said that unless its rocket science I'm going to have a go at it. I was asking how you would work on that line going to the back of the motor the diagram shows what it does. Are you saying if the injectors are not leaking it has to be the cp3 pump? If yes, I would need to replace the seal from pump to motor? If they won't sell one it seems I could get gasket material and make one? Thanks for everyone's input!