Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Injectors & Fuel Transfer Pump

[RMHanes]

Have a '98 with manual transmission with about 170K on the odometer. Engine runs good but the body and exhaust system is showing rust but that is not relevant to the question. What tests can be done with basic tools to determine if the fuel injectors are in need of replacement? The mpg has been relatively constant is the first thing that looked at over the past few months. Could placing a stethoscope or similar device on each injector determine anything? What special tools would be needed if decided to do this myself and can it be done in a day? Any tips on purging the air other than what is in the service manual? Do know that need to keep things really clean when open the fuel lines. This may have been covered in a previous issue and will do a search also. Still have the original fuel pump and would this be a good time to swap that out also? Did have the fuel transfer pump replaced a few years ago but it was with "fix" detailed by Dodge which move the pump into the tank and off of the engine. Has anyone replaced this with the Fass pumps carried by Geno's Garage? The fuel tank will have to be dropped and will need to pay particular attention to how the gasket gets reinstalled on top so that there are no leaks.
Thanks for any insight on these two questions.

 

[SAndreasen]

My truck is running a intank pump feeding a fass ddrp pump . As far as the injectors if your not making oil I wouldn't worry about it

 

[petersonj]

I am going to assume that your truck is really a 98.5 24 valve because you said that the fuel transfer pump is in the fuel tank. If it is in fact a 24 valve engine, then you probably don't need to replace injectors for a long time. If the fuel economy is normal and the performance is good, you are probably about half-life of the injectors. I have 267,000 miles on mine and I am not even thinking about changing them for awhile. Many people have posted well over 300,000 miles with no problems.

I had the same fuel transfer pump fix under warranty when my VP44 failed at 87,000 miles. I recently removed the tank mounted pump and installed a used FASS transfer pump on the frame rail (17,000 miles ago). I did this because all lift pumps eventually fail and I wanted to be able to replace the pump easily. I bought a second used FASS transfer pump that I carry with the truck as a spare.

I lowered the fuel tank to get access to the in-tank pump. It is not difficult, but you have very limited space to work in when it comes time for removing the fuel canister. Removing the fuel lines from the canister is a challenge. Some people have raised the truck bed or tilted the bed to the side for access. If I have to get into the fuel tank again, I think I will use this approach since it would give much better access to removing and installing the fuel canister assembly and it would be much easier to maintain a clean environment.

I will probably have some the of the same questions that you have when it comes time to replace the injectors in my truck, too.

- John

 

[SAndreasen]

I am going to assume that your truck is really a 98.5 24 valve because you said that the fuel transfer pump is in the fuel tank. If it is in fact a 24 valve engine, then you probably don't need to replace injectors for a long time. If the fuel economy is normal and the performance is good, you are probably about half-life of the injectors. I have 267,000 miles on mine and I am not even thinking about changing them for awhile. Many people have posted well over 300,000 miles with no problems.

I had the same fuel transfer pump fix under warranty when my VP44 failed at 87,000 miles. I recently removed the tank mounted pump and installed a used FASS transfer pump on the frame rail (17,000 miles ago). I did this because all lift pumps eventually fail and I wanted to be able to replace the pump easily. I bought a second used FASS transfer pump that I carry with the truck as a spare.

I lowered the fuel tank to get access to the in-tank pump. It is not difficult, but you have very limited space to work in when it comes time for removing the fuel canister. Removing the fuel lines from the canister is a challenge. Some people have raised the truck bed or tilted the bed to the side for access. If I have to get into the fuel tank again, I think I will use this approach since it would give much better access to removing and installing the fuel canister assembly and it would be much easier to maintain a clean environment.

I will probably have some the of the same questions that you have when it comes time to replace the injectors in my truck, too.

- John

Date on the build sheet is 98 date In the door is 98. 24 valve

 

[phantomusa]

The best and only true way to test injectors is to remove them and have them tested
I also have the dealer installed intank pump and to date it's still pumping 14 psi at injector pump the intank pumps seem to last longer due to the cooling effect of being in fuel you can get or rent a gage setup from big box auto stores to test your pump psi
I did order a replacement pump and have installed a sump draw on my tank to by-pass the intank pump if it starts to fail I have a airdog 100 ready to install when that day comes my setup doesn't require me to drop my tank
"As a side note you can't run both intank and external pump together if intank pump fails it's a restriction to fuel flow to the external pump" it should be a one or the other setup
Pappy

 

[SAndreasen]

My intank pump quit a year ago and I stil have the same fuel psi as before the only difference is now the fuel psi doesn't come up when i first turn the key now I have to bump the key to activate the pump on the block .

 

[samsonite01]

I just went through the hassle of taking out injectors and having them pop tested. They all failed and were even dribbling. I had to purchase new.

From my point of view after going through what i did; it was worth just buying new ones. Mine had 180k. The awsome thing about the 24v is the injectors are very affordable.

The fuel shop i deal with recommended a set of Bocsh RV275. Part# 0432193635. They were 584$ after tax and the shop gave me the crossover tube o-rings. You can find them for cheaper if you search around.

I could not belive the difference in driveability.

Lift pump upgrade is a must. I went through 3 different lift pumps and a injection pump before the set up i have now. Agian, with the hassle of all that i wish i would have just bought the nicer equipment in the first place. Could have saved some $ in the long run!