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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel lift pump replacement- easy way?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Lower Instrument Panel

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Bluebird

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Lift pump is weeping on '95 CTD with manual trans. What the easiest way to get 's done. I've done a 1st Gen w/auto from left wheel access. 2nd Gen has sheet metal inner fender. Thanks for y'all experience & expertise :D

Patrick
 
What's a stud kit? (Good jokes potential). How do you work around: injection pump, fuel filter, master cylinder & other stuff in the way:confused:

Patrick
 
https://www.amazon.com/LarryBs-Mounting-Transfer-valve-Cummins/dp/B00D2C1VI8

As to your list of things to work around, you just have to do it. You could do it from below but you'd need to pull the starter and if it's 4X4 you have to work around the front axle and drive shaft.

You can take one of the two master cylinder nuts off and loosen the other and swing it over some. You can remove the fuel filter, it's just two bolts after you take the banjo bolts loose on the top. Should be nothing else in the way.
 
I did mine from the bottom.
It's been a while, but it wasn't particularly difficult.
May as well replace the return line behind the fuel filter while you're getting dirty....
 
Remove left front tire. Remove plastic inner fender. Metal cutting saw of your choice. Pay attention where the blade is at.
wheel well cut out.jpg


wheel well cut out.jpg
 
Impressive, GAmes!
@Bluebird, I guess it depends how much room you like to have. Some folks are ok with working in tight spaces. I prefer to clear everything out of the way. On my '95, I actually removed the master cylinder and brake booster and worked from the top. I have a mityvac for brake bleeding and my lines were all new so that I didn't have to worry about breaking lines or frozen bleeder screws. There is an important little clip from the brake pedal to the booster push rod that has to be replaced if you go this route -- it was about a dollar at the dealer, it has various part numbers: 04581512AA, 04294036, 04019421, 06035334.
 
I'm a new member, sorry for my ignorance, I hope this is the right way to post a question. I've worked on some cars but have no idea what's going on with my 1994 Ram 3500 4x2 with 5.9l Cummins. It has always been reliable starting, but now with 240,000 miles it started cranking more before starting (seemed worse when it was cold outside). I always started it with the throttle slightly cracked and it fired instantly, when the excessive cranking started to appear I found it helpful to open the throttle fully, then go to partially open and it would start. Finally, I parked it one day and it would not start a few days later.
I noticed that the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (FSS) was not operating when I turn the key on, but it will stay lifted if I reach in and lift it until it clicks with ignition key on, but still no start when I crank the engine. I am ordering a new Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (I've seen prices of $516 at O'Reilly, $435 at Cummins West, $135 at my local Dodge Dealership, and $30 on EBay!). Should the engine start when I manually lift the FSS? I would sure appreciate hearing suggested next steps, this is a great truck and I suspect that some parts, hoses, etc may be deteriorating and in need of replacement. Problem is I don't know what those parts look like, where they are located or what the logical trouble-shooting sequence would be. Thanks very much for any suggestions!
 
Welcome to the TDR! Here is the best link to fully understand your fuel system. Bookmark it and/or print it out.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/58777-joe-gs-fuel-system-writeup.html
Fuel Shutoff:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/569868-fuel-shut-off-solenoid-fss.html
Reading the information will help you trouble shoot your problem and fixing it, thus saving you time & money.
Buying the OEM factory manual (paper or CD) for your truck will help you save time & money also.

Other helpful links:
http://www.fostertruck.com
https://www.genosgarage.com
http://www.glacierdieselpower.com
 
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