fuel plate

[firemanshawn]

ok I fell dumb asking but! How hard is it to install an upgraded fuel plate? can I do It myself, does the injector pump have to come off. where is a good place to get them. thank's

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Get a TST plate, I'm not sure if a 97 is the same as a 98 but I got the 230/605 #8 plate and it like a hole new truck, if it were me I would get it from Piers as he is the 12V god but if you want to get it from TST you can do that to. The instructions are very clear and other than normal tools you'll need a hand impact driver to remove the top/forward screw as looking at it from the drivers side over the fender, other that that is all good just be careful and remember to mark with a scribe the location of the stock plate before removing it. No need to feel dumb cause we've all been there and that is what the board is for.



Jim



P. S. when you get it done don't drive a DTT equiped truck cause you'll want that next

 

[Bob Wagner]

Originally posted by firemanshawn

ok where is a good place to get them. thank's

From the Fuel Plate Wizard www.piersdiesel.com



Piers will also give you some friendly advice and install tips

 

[firemanshawn]

Thank's for the response... ..... Sounds fairly strait forward.

 

[Forrest]

http://www.tstproducts.com/power_install.html

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Fireman

One other thing, with the AFC housing off and your new plate in open the throttle by hand and look at where the arm strikes the plate, on mine and others that I rode in it made a big difference doing the Piers secret stuff. Just remember this put the arm on the nose and it will all make sence.



Jim



http://www.piersdiesel.com/LeverAdj.htm

 

[Reddog1]

firemanshawn



No, you don’t have to remove the pump.



Check out the following:



http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits.html



As Forrest indicated: http://www.tstproducts.com/power_install.html



Check this thread Cam Plates?????



A word of caution, everything I read says it may not be a good idea for us auto guys to up the power with a stock trans . It is said, our transmissions, including the Torque Converter (TC) and Valve Body (VB) are not up to the task. It appears our weak link will not let the power go to the wheels .



Personally, I will not do any serious mods (including fuel plate) until I get all of my gages in. Santa should be bringing the last one .



There are some less radical things you can do, such as adjusting the stock plate and changing the timing.



I too am new at this. What I have shared with you are from many hours of reading these post. Most of these guts have a wealth of knowledge.



Wayne



P. S. I encourage you to go slow with the mods, see what these guys are doing and when.

 

[Joe G.]

firemanshawn,



Installing the plate is not too hard a task if you have even modest mechanical ability.



Increased fueling will result in higher EGT so getting an EGT gauge is a MUST! Dodge was just too cheap to provide this gauge in the stock dash. You really need it for proper shut down as well as detecting excess EGT.

 

[Heetseeker_1]

go for it

Shawn,



I have the 98 12v with the auto and 3:54 gears, so our trucks are similar. I went with the 250 hp tst plate and here are some of my findings.



While installing the plate, the break-off screw is a bi... ch to get out. Invest in a good impact driver to do the job. I personnaly stripped the head with mine and had to apply tanginal force by tapping the edge (for about 45 minutes) to get the screw out.



Watch the video, read the directions, call me, we can do it together. You buy the beer.



Many warn of the increased power effects on your transmission, but with over 70k miles on yours, I would be looking to up-grade to an aftermarket TC and VB and update kit from DTT ASAP anyway.



I didn't want to waste time gradually moving up the torque plate tree, so I passed the 230hp plate and dropped in the 250 and love it. One has to be mindfull, however, of the capabilities of this motor when BOMBED and apply the power smoothly while running a slushbox auto---even when stock, if you want things to last. (the transmission)



My advice,,, Get the guages first, Period. Get the plate, save for the transmission upgrades.



Give me a call at Station 10 on Tuesday the 18th. We can rap.



Steve.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I found it easier with the tamper resistant screw to just knock the head off with a cold chisel. TST gives you a new one in the kit. You can get the rest of it out once the cover comes off. Time expended was 30 seconds. Took longer to find the chisel.

 

[radixr]

Breakoff Screw

Another way to get the darn thing out is to use a long 1/8" drill and make a shallow hole in the head. Then use the hand impact driver with a #21 (I think) Torxs bit to remove it. Mine came right out.



One other comment, I first got the #12 plate but sent it back without installing it in exchange for the #11 plate. However, that did not cure my BOMBing infection. I need injectors, deliverly valves, Piers's Super Turbo, etc. Someone please help me, I'm sick!

 

[CWeidenkeller]

Any of y'all done a #6 plate on a CA truck (EGR handicapped) with an auto trans? Just put the SPA EGT/Boost in and she's ready for the plate- stock plate slid forward just aint gettin' it no more. Any HP/torque numbers on the #6 on an EGR motor?

 

[sewman]

I took my Dremel tool & ground a slot in the tamperproof screw & turned it out w/a screwdriver. If you don't have a Dremel tell better tell Santa soon!!!!

Bob

 

[Wirenut]

WooHoo, UPS man just delivered my gauges, #10 plate, and 370's! Installed the 4" downpipe yesterday. Im ready to be bombed! When I first started to mess with my pump when I got the truck about a month ago, I also got jacked and knocked the breakoff screw off. I wondered if I was the only one, and you guys just answered my question as to what that screw is that comes with the plate! Hey, its called a "break-off" screw... so i broke it off.

 

[JConley]

The first power modification I did was replacing the valve body. With the TST plate and a stock transmission, you are going to do two things.



1. Slip the TC

2. Waste money on the fuel plate since you cant get the power to the ground.



A buddy of mine added a fuel plate to a stock truck, and he has to let off the gas going into TC lockup because the torque converter will slip and chatter. Adding the fuel plate first is going to nothing more than speed up the valve body replacement purchase.



Here is what I did



1. Replace the valve body first so you dont destroy the transmission with too much horsepower. I replaced my valve body at 60K miles, and it shift a whole lot better, goes into lock up much better, and replacing the valve body can increase the life of the transmission. Believe it or not, the truck felt like it had more power after replacing the VB since it was a lot more responsive.



2. Now add a fuel plate, and governor springs. Dont even think about the governor springs. Just buy them!!!! Without the governor springs, you are going to get up to 2500RPM so fast that you will not get the full benefit of what this engine will do. I have a TST #6 plate (250HP) and with the DTT valve body, my transmission can take the power. I plan on overhauling the transmission in the near future, and this will be when I swap out the TC.



Everybody has a list of what to do first. This is what I choose, and I highly recommend it.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The 230 hp plate is pretty safe with the stock automatic but the stock converter is so loose with extra torque applied to it that the bigger plates won't be felt over the 230 unless the converter is locked up. Of course, transmission upgrades are a good idea, but many folks got away with the 230 hp plate and stock trannies. The egr trucks respond like the other 180 hp ones except that even the 230 hp taxes the ability of that restricted air intake. It has a hole about the size of a quarter near the egr valve. I know a guy who opens them up with a mill and welds a plate to the bottom. This gives a functional egr for the enviroconscious but good air flow.

 

[CWeidenkeller]

I'm already planning on swapping the air intake for a 49 state and blocking off the exhaust port for the EGR. Will increasing the line pressure (according to the instructions on Bill Kondolay's site) buy me some time before needing to replace the valve body? I'd prefer to do the VB/TC at one time, just have to save the up the $1500.



Thanks for the replies. Cummins drivers are my heroes