Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I've had quite a few people asking me for more detailed info on my fuel pressure gauge install lately so I thought I'd post what I've put together for those guys. You can see my original post on it at https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum3/HTML/001088.html .
Keep in mind that I have a prime-loc remote filter on my truck and that's what I hooked my sensor's up to. Some year trucks have test ports in the top of the stock filter head (my '98. 5 does) but I understand that the later trucks ('00 and '01 I think - correct me if I'm wrong guys) don't have those ports. I used Stewart warner pressure senders and a gauge that I bought
from XK's Unlimited - http://www.xks.com/ - a jaguar place!! They had the
best prices I could find. I bought the track force gauges because they match
the closest to my DiPricol boost and pyro - the page they are on is here http://www.xks.com/SW%20Pages/swgaug11.html . The gauge I bought is the
SW-82868-P which is a 2 1/16" 0-16 psi electric gauge with a black bezel.
The sender's were the 82504-F . They also have many other options on there
for other style gauges. For the lines I just used brass barbs with 1/4"
rubber fuel lines and hose clamps - you need two male 1/8 npt to 1/4" barb
connectors (for the prime-loc side) and two femal 1/8 npt to 1/4" barbs (for
the pressure sender side). The pressure senders are grounded through the
case so you have to have a good connection. I made an aluminum bracket that
simply attached to an existing bracket (no additional holes in the truck at
all) and then cut slots in the bracket and put large hose clamps throught
the slots to attach the senders. Then you simply run wires from the senders
into the cab. The gauge has 3 connections - a ground, 12v power, and the
sender wire. I ran the wires from the senders to an on-on switch and then
one wire to the gauge. I put that switch in a project box which I attached
to the dash and then attached the gauge to the box. I can switch on the fly
from pre-filter to post-filter at any time. I bought the gauge cup from
Geno's (their donut mount). I'm attaching pics of the gauge and
a close-up of the sender's and attachment. My total cost for everything was
about $90 after the switch, wire, bracket, mount, gauge, and senders.
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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc, SW fuel pressure gauge, boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, muffler eliminator, polished valve cover, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Mag Hy-tec rear diff cover, Permatech liner, Grizzly SS nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 08-03-2000). ]
Keep in mind that I have a prime-loc remote filter on my truck and that's what I hooked my sensor's up to. Some year trucks have test ports in the top of the stock filter head (my '98. 5 does) but I understand that the later trucks ('00 and '01 I think - correct me if I'm wrong guys) don't have those ports. I used Stewart warner pressure senders and a gauge that I bought
from XK's Unlimited - http://www.xks.com/ - a jaguar place!! They had the
best prices I could find. I bought the track force gauges because they match
the closest to my DiPricol boost and pyro - the page they are on is here http://www.xks.com/SW%20Pages/swgaug11.html . The gauge I bought is the
SW-82868-P which is a 2 1/16" 0-16 psi electric gauge with a black bezel.
The sender's were the 82504-F . They also have many other options on there
for other style gauges. For the lines I just used brass barbs with 1/4"
rubber fuel lines and hose clamps - you need two male 1/8 npt to 1/4" barb
connectors (for the prime-loc side) and two femal 1/8 npt to 1/4" barbs (for
the pressure sender side). The pressure senders are grounded through the
case so you have to have a good connection. I made an aluminum bracket that
simply attached to an existing bracket (no additional holes in the truck at
all) and then cut slots in the bracket and put large hose clamps throught
the slots to attach the senders. Then you simply run wires from the senders
into the cab. The gauge has 3 connections - a ground, 12v power, and the
sender wire. I ran the wires from the senders to an on-on switch and then
one wire to the gauge. I put that switch in a project box which I attached
to the dash and then attached the gauge to the box. I can switch on the fly
from pre-filter to post-filter at any time. I bought the gauge cup from
Geno's (their donut mount). I'm attaching pics of the gauge and
a close-up of the sender's and attachment. My total cost for everything was
about $90 after the switch, wire, bracket, mount, gauge, and senders.
#ad#ad#ad------------------
-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR, Chapter Forums Moderator
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, Prime-loc, SW fuel pressure gauge, boost & pyro gauges, TST Powermax, muffler eliminator, polished valve cover, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, Mag Hy-tec rear diff cover, Permatech liner, Grizzly SS nerf bars, Stull SS grill & bumper inserts, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's
[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 08-03-2000). ]
