Fuel Pressure gauge setups...

[snowracer69]

I've read many posts via the search, and still have a couple of questions regarding a fuel pressure gauge...



What I'd like to do is to run an Autometer Z-series boost gauge in my cubby-hole for my fuel pressure. Talked to Doug@ADT today, and it looks like I can do it... here's my questions... .



is the Stainless/braided line necessary? What else can be put in its place to save the $60 for the SS line.



What exact banjo's do I need in order to take my reading from the "post-filter" port on my truck? Do I need more than just one for that spot? Or where is a better option for me?



Also need a shutoff valve for the line (1/8" NPT), would I put this right onto the banjo?



The other option I looked at was a Dakota Digital, but it would be considerable more $$$ than the mechanical boost gauge, and if you can't tell from my post, trying to keep the cost of this one to a minimum.



Thanks, Josh.

 

[Chipstien]

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I only paid about 25 dollars to have my stainless line made. I think Illflem uses 1/8 inch nylon hose for his Mechanical FP guage. He will probably chime in.

 

[BFC]

I have the same set up with the SS line. I will admit that the SS is overkill. There is a bunch of options, cheapest would be needle valve and compression fitting and the plastic boost line you'll get with the guage. I went with SS line and AN fittings for the ease of install and piece of mind. They are cheaper lines that will accept AN fittings you don't need to go with the SS one.



Glenn

 

[rweis]

Where did y'all order the SS line?



Thanks



Bob

 

[Big White Beast]

Tried it once........

Before I upgraded to the electric gauges I had a mechanical in the cab with a stainless line. I could hear the VP hammering the fuel line clear as a bell in the cab. I never tried a snubber to see if it would help as I upgraded to get rid of the noise and liked the dual monitoring capabilities of the electric gauges.



Garrett

 

[BFC]

Originally posted by rweis

Where did y'all order the SS line?



Thanks



Bob

I got my set up ar www.smokindiesel.com, they send it assembled and all. If you want to do it yourself Jegs or Summit Racing has a bunch of brand and size.



Glenn

 

[Rob Thomas]

Re: Tried it once........

Originally posted by Big White Beast

Before I upgraded to the electric gauges I had a mechanical in the cab with a stainless line. I could hear the VP hammering the fuel line clear as a bell in the cab. I never tried a snubber to see if it would help as I upgraded to get rid of the noise and liked the dual monitoring capabilities of the electric gauges.



Garrett

Upgraded to electric? Don't those senders go south regularly? You should have tried the snubber or a rubber hose, I have 2 mechanical pressure gauges, pre/post, and zero noise from them using rubber hose.



Later, Rob

 

[illflem]

Re: Re: Tried it once........

Upgraded to electric?

I'd call it more like a downgrade. Most of the time when you get a warning reading from an electric gauge the problem is the sender or wiring, not the system you're trying to monitor. Either that or you really should be seeing a warning reading but the sender is reading normal. Mechanical gauges are much more reliable. 2¢

 

[Shovelhead]

Mechanical is the only way to go for me.

With my dash mounted gauge, I never have to worry about the sending unit taking a dumper because of vibration.

Bill (illflem) has the solution to the "buzzing gauge" also, no rubber hoses, or "isolators", just a simple $3 and change valve.

It works like a champ. Oo.

 

[Big White Beast]

I suppose......

You could see it either way.



My mechanical was only a 0-15 so it wouldn't work anyway now that I have the pusher on. I haven't had any problems with either of the electric gauges I've used. Knock on wood. And worst case I have the connections to the sender right on top to hook a mechanical to if I have any doubt. With 2 senders it's easy to tell if one is going south.



I did keep the mechanical with a line on it to go to -4an. It helped me trouble shoot a friends lift pump.



Garrett

 

[Heetseeker_1]

what'd you do?

Illflem, so how did you install your setup? I'm going to get the quage going as soon as I take delivery of the 2001 H/O.



Steve.

 

[illflem]

Steve, I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge. Some folks like to use braided stainless tubing, I feel it's an overkill and hard to route, but it does look nice. The stainless is just on the outside of rubber hose for abrasion and to protect against high pressure bursting, something that shouldn't concern you with just 20 psi.



For a gauge you can use a fuel, boost or water pressure gauge. I use rear connected, liquid filled, stainless water pressure gauges and make my own mount. They have no lighting but it's not a gauge you need to look at all the time. They can be mounted low for the same reason. Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Don't over tighten the tubing compression fittings, you will just distort the ferrule and it may leak. Remember you are working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.



If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece of cake, Geno's also sells tapped bolts. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from the outside. You can also connect to the fittings on top of your fuel filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap or want a pre-filter reading also.



After the install start your engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the unlikely event that you have a leak. Since you are running the valve almost shut any leak will be very small.



Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2. 50 from the hardware store, plastic oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10 from an auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2. Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The water pressure gauges I use cost less than $10, bringing the total cost to less than $25 and a couple hours of your time.



I've installed several gauges that have been in service for over 5 years with zero problems though you may have to occasionally close the needle valve a bit more if the gauge starts pulsating.

 

[Heetseeker_1]

Perfect

Nice post, thanks.



It sounds like a set up that is easy to troubleshoot in the event of a guage problem. I'll get the parts together next week. The only issue I see is running diesel to the cab. Any leaks and it's bye-bye new truck smell. I might put the hose and guage together, test it with air for a leakdown problem just to make sure. A guage with small graduations would be great too.



On another issue: do you think a pusher pump at the tank is essential for long life of the stock lift pump? Or, is it prone to failure anyway?



Thanks again, Steve.

 

[snowracer69]

illflem

Thank you very much for that post... I was going to ask those exact questions in a seperate thread here very shortly, and you answered all my questions just like that.



Looks like I'll be ordering my gauge here shortly. Yeeeah... . another toy to watch in the cab, and to have passengers go, "What's that thing for?". hehe



Josh

 

[illflem]

Josh, I've answered these questions in all or part so many times that I figured to write it all the way up and save it. Don't be surprised if you see it again.

 

[rweis]

I like the idea of the valve regardless of the sender or mechanical setup. Just makes the system just that less likely to have a catastrophic failure.



I am going to do electric, but will also do the needle valve to the electric sender.



Thanks