Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Pressure Gauge trashed...

[guldam]

I installed a Marshall 0-60psi Silicone filled fuel gauge on my truck (under hood) at the end of August. This morning I take a look at it to see what the pressure is, and I see that the Silicone is gone. And now the gauge is back to measuring 0-10psi, but it's slamming back to 0 very hard and bouncing back to 10psi. I thought I had all my fuel pressure issues fixed... maybe they are, but the gauge wasn't happy.



I installed a Tork Tek snubber at the injection pump, then installed a grease gun hose and finally the gauge. It's attached to a hose with zip ties and seemed pretty isolated from vibrations.



I also, have a Tork Tek overflow valve and a new lift pump. I guess the meter needed more than just a snubber to dampen the pressure spikes.



Any recommendations on a better fuel meter setup? I'm thinking I want to install an electrical one so I can keep track of fuel pressure from inside the cab.



GulDam

 

[WilsonF]

This will work to put it inside the cab too.


To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:

I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.

Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.

If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .

After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.

Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2. 50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here Surplus Center - About Us , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.

From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=
__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4x4 auto
'95 3500 5 speed flatbed hauler
stock for one day
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:45 PM #10
infidel
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Floyd