Fuel Pressure Gauge

[Uncle Mike]

Is anyone using Autometer Ultralite fuel pressure gauges? Specifically, the 4362 (mechanical?), or 4361 (electrical?). I am considering the electric gauge and would like to hear from the field if they are worth the price. Also looking for the pro/con of electric/mechanical setup.

 

[Chipstien]

I use the 4361 and love it. Did have a sending unit go out but called AM and they sent a new one out promptley with no questions asked.

 

[Chipstien]

Are they worth the money... . that depends. All of my guages are the ultralites so to have them match was worth it to me. I believe the Westach from Genos is a third of the price and seem to work well. It's all a matter of personal preference. Good luck.

 

[Briar Hopper]

I've got the UltraLite electric version. It's my third one, I've had two sending units fail. They replaced them promptly. This third one is a stronger design, from the looks of it. It has lasted several months now. Would I buy one again? Yes. My EGT and boost gauges have worked flawlessly for over a year.

 

[Shovelhead]

Sender, schmender.

Isspro mechanical dash mounted with a s. s. braided line. No sender to go bad.

 

[illflem]

Right on Shovelhead! Mechanical gauges are the only ones you can really trust. I've come across several senders on diesels that have failed and you couldn't tell without comparing them to a mechcanical gauge. It seems like they get used to their most common reading and go there whether it's right or not and still return to zero at shutdown.



Beware if your electrical fuel pressure gauge always reads the same when running at different rpms, often times it is broken.

 

[Bigsaint]

I agree, if I had to choose only one FP gauge, it would be a mechanical unit. I've had my SPA sender mounted post filter for over a year now, still works well. My concern was the same as posted above... if you have an electrical gauge and start to experience fluctuations in FP, you have to troubleshoot it down to either the sender or the pump. Not so with the mech. gauge. If nothing else, it was a good excuse for me to add another mechanical gauge ( this one is pre-filter) to watch FP. I used the Autometer Ultralite 0-15 mech. gauge for awhile, worked great. When I changed pumps I needed a gauge that read a bit higher, so I went with the Autometer Ultralite vac. /boost gauge (0-20 psi's). Works well for me. I'm still using the -4AN braided SS line for the boost (FP) gauge, adpated to it using a -4AN to 1/8" NPT fitting.



If you are real concerned about bringing the line into the cab, you can always mount the gauge on the hood. I installed mine this way, mainly because I never saw a gauge on the hood of a CTD and thought it would look good. There's pic. of the MIL gauge in the readers rig section, if anyone is interested. Screams either PERFORMANCE or A$$HOLE, depending on who see's it . I'm happy with it though, and that's all that counts in my book.



Scott W.

 

[LarryB]

I always prefer mech gauges to elec. Very simple and reliable.



Fuel in the cockpit is not a real danger if you use a dampener in the line close to the engine. I usually make my own dampener. I have a #80 drill bit (. 012" I think) for drilling through a soldered plug in the fitting closest to the engine. Not much fuel could get into the cab even if the line was pulled loose.

 

[dresslered]

Fly By Wire!

I'll always take an electrical over a mechanical guage. I believe that if you use a quality gauge and intall the electrical correctly, they will outlast the bulky mechanical lines and are much easier to route. Additionally, there are no hazardous fluids in the cab.

 

[Uncle Mike]

As always, thanks for all the replies and input. Looks like time to do some shopping... ...