So, I got my Autometer FP gauge and over head pod setup yesterday. spend about 4 hours installing and making all nice. I still need to paint the pod console and cover up wires under the hood and implement a switch to turn off manually the rear view dimmer. But short of that I have a few questions.
Was I supposed to "prime" the sending unit? (electric) If so how with out dumping a bit of diesel on the ground and with out a second person? The gauge is all jumpy while cruising at like 40mph. jumps and down 1 psi here and there. . could this be air or normal? I have the electric sending unit and there's gota be like an "inch" of air if that, maybe it will cycle out over time? also, I got the bigger tapped banjo bolt on top of the cp3 (right next to the shrader valve)
Proper PSI: some searching I finally found a post with a few people stating the 9. 5-10 at idle and 5-7 cruse and with tst up to 7/7 they could pull down to 3. This is inline with edge on 3+ and ez on 3. stock and ez 1 4psi is about as low as this will go. Typical for a brand spanking new intank pump with a 11,000 mile old fuel filter (new coming today I hope)???
Fuel pressure sender wires: Yes. out of the box they were not long enough, I had to cut the harness and extend them 10 feet or so? I have like 3 or 4 feet of extra wire that I could cut out). This wouldn't affect gauge readings if they were properly connected and tight? no sodder tho.
I do have the light ground and switched ground going to the same ground wire. not been light enough outside yet to test gauge jumpyness with head/dash lights off.
In the process of testing and looking for wires I turned the key on many times (and to check for leaks). When I went for my test drive I got a code, turns out to be 0628, low voltage to the fuel pump. 4 hours of cab lights on + radio + key on a few times (15? 20?). could that be the cause? I have an appointment at the dealer this afternoon to have them check it as well.
I got the automeater over head pod, it's nice looking. I wish the finish was smooth and not rough (like the over head console, not like the pillars. After a good clean I could not get the sticker velcro things to stick, the pod is held in with the liner. Suggestions short of double sided 3M tape?
Dimmer: I got lucky, found the correct wire for this. This is neat!, never hooked up the autometer gauges to a dimmer before, those the gauges are still to bright (out of sync) with the dash. I may put another dimmer in line to turn it down a bit but still mainly controlled with the dash switch.
The cig wire plug is my switched positive and I tapped the negative as well. This was easy.
Can't wait to wire in the Rail pressure gauge and finalize my install, going to look sweet.
Was I supposed to "prime" the sending unit? (electric) If so how with out dumping a bit of diesel on the ground and with out a second person? The gauge is all jumpy while cruising at like 40mph. jumps and down 1 psi here and there. . could this be air or normal? I have the electric sending unit and there's gota be like an "inch" of air if that, maybe it will cycle out over time? also, I got the bigger tapped banjo bolt on top of the cp3 (right next to the shrader valve)
Proper PSI: some searching I finally found a post with a few people stating the 9. 5-10 at idle and 5-7 cruse and with tst up to 7/7 they could pull down to 3. This is inline with edge on 3+ and ez on 3. stock and ez 1 4psi is about as low as this will go. Typical for a brand spanking new intank pump with a 11,000 mile old fuel filter (new coming today I hope)???
Fuel pressure sender wires: Yes. out of the box they were not long enough, I had to cut the harness and extend them 10 feet or so? I have like 3 or 4 feet of extra wire that I could cut out). This wouldn't affect gauge readings if they were properly connected and tight? no sodder tho.
I do have the light ground and switched ground going to the same ground wire. not been light enough outside yet to test gauge jumpyness with head/dash lights off.
In the process of testing and looking for wires I turned the key on many times (and to check for leaks). When I went for my test drive I got a code, turns out to be 0628, low voltage to the fuel pump. 4 hours of cab lights on + radio + key on a few times (15? 20?). could that be the cause? I have an appointment at the dealer this afternoon to have them check it as well.
I got the automeater over head pod, it's nice looking. I wish the finish was smooth and not rough (like the over head console, not like the pillars. After a good clean I could not get the sticker velcro things to stick, the pod is held in with the liner. Suggestions short of double sided 3M tape?
Dimmer: I got lucky, found the correct wire for this. This is neat!, never hooked up the autometer gauges to a dimmer before, those the gauges are still to bright (out of sync) with the dash. I may put another dimmer in line to turn it down a bit but still mainly controlled with the dash switch.
The cig wire plug is my switched positive and I tapped the negative as well. This was easy.

Can't wait to wire in the Rail pressure gauge and finalize my install, going to look sweet.