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Fuel Pressure, over head pods, 0628 code questions (long, lots of Q's)

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mild modules?

lift pump location

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So, I got my Autometer FP gauge and over head pod setup yesterday. spend about 4 hours installing and making all nice. I still need to paint the pod console and cover up wires under the hood and implement a switch to turn off manually the rear view dimmer. But short of that I have a few questions.



Was I supposed to "prime" the sending unit? (electric) If so how with out dumping a bit of diesel on the ground and with out a second person? The gauge is all jumpy while cruising at like 40mph. jumps and down 1 psi here and there. . could this be air or normal? I have the electric sending unit and there's gota be like an "inch" of air if that, maybe it will cycle out over time? also, I got the bigger tapped banjo bolt on top of the cp3 (right next to the shrader valve)



Proper PSI: some searching I finally found a post with a few people stating the 9. 5-10 at idle and 5-7 cruse and with tst up to 7/7 they could pull down to 3. This is inline with edge on 3+ and ez on 3. stock and ez 1 4psi is about as low as this will go. Typical for a brand spanking new intank pump with a 11,000 mile old fuel filter (new coming today I hope)???



Fuel pressure sender wires: Yes. out of the box they were not long enough, I had to cut the harness and extend them 10 feet or so? I have like 3 or 4 feet of extra wire that I could cut out). This wouldn't affect gauge readings if they were properly connected and tight? no sodder tho.



I do have the light ground and switched ground going to the same ground wire. not been light enough outside yet to test gauge jumpyness with head/dash lights off.



In the process of testing and looking for wires I turned the key on many times (and to check for leaks). When I went for my test drive I got a code, turns out to be 0628, low voltage to the fuel pump. 4 hours of cab lights on + radio + key on a few times (15? 20?). could that be the cause? I have an appointment at the dealer this afternoon to have them check it as well.



I got the automeater over head pod, it's nice looking. I wish the finish was smooth and not rough (like the over head console, not like the pillars. After a good clean I could not get the sticker velcro things to stick, the pod is held in with the liner. Suggestions short of double sided 3M tape?



Dimmer: I got lucky, found the correct wire for this. This is neat!, never hooked up the autometer gauges to a dimmer before, those the gauges are still to bright (out of sync) with the dash. I may put another dimmer in line to turn it down a bit but still mainly controlled with the dash switch.



The cig wire plug is my switched positive and I tapped the negative as well. This was easy. :)



Can't wait to wire in the Rail pressure gauge and finalize my install, going to look sweet.
 
Ahh, the joys of electric gauges. I have zero problems with my mechanical fp gauge. Oo. Fuel in the cab? Big deal, that's what needle valves are for.



As far as the overhead mount: clicky







Matt400 came up with this idea. I can attest that with this method, the mount is rock solid. Went to Lowes and got a brace in the lumber section for $0. 29. Four screws later and it won't budge.
 
CMNS PWR said:
Ahh, the joys of electric gauges. I have zero problems with my mechanical fp gauge. Oo. Fuel in the cab? Big deal, that's what needle valves are for.



As far as the overhead mount: clicky







Matt400 came up with this idea. I can attest that with this method, the mount is rock solid. Went to Lowes and got a brace in the lumber section for $0. 29. Four screws later and it won't budge.



I seen that thread once. . and I could never find it while I was installing things lastnight!!! thanks.



For some reason, the truck didn't display me any codes other then 0628, but I had the one code also set that was for the fuel rail pressure sensor. I went to the dealership for no reason as that I did have the ez disconnected at the box and I did turn the ignition on!. I'm a dummy. and the 0628 code was 45 starts old, and was used as the official go to replace the liftpump. the dealer should of cleared it then. I should of seen the other code as well but it wouldn't come up apparently.
 
If you have the sender threaded right into the banjo then vibration is not your friend. The senders on the electric ones don't like vibration at all. I have a 6" piece of rubber fuel hose between my sender and the engine. My does not flutter at all. It stays at 18 PSI constantly. . until I go WOT then she drops like normal to about 17 with still no fluctuation. Here is a pic of how mine is setup. I went with the filter lid because I put on a big line kit along with big AN fittings. Good luck. BTW, I never bled mine.

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staarma said:
If you have the sender threaded right into the banjo then vibration is not your friend. The senders on the electric ones don't like vibration at all. I have a 6" piece of rubber fuel hose between my sender and the engine. My does not flutter at all. It stays at 18 PSI constantly. . until I go WOT then she drops like normal to about 17 with still no fluctuation. Here is a pic of how mine is setup. I went with the filter lid because I put on a big line kit along with big AN fittings. Good luck. BTW, I never bled mine.

#ad





hmm mine only flutters around at city speeds. at idle it's stable, at highway speeds it's stable. Funny thing is that I have lower FP pressure at 35mph in at 2000rpm then I do at 70mph at 2000rpm (give or take a few rpm's).
 
JasonCzerak said:
Dimmer: I got lucky, found the correct wire for this. This is neat!, never hooked up the autometer gauges to a dimmer before, those the gauges are still to bright (out of sync) with the dash. I may put another dimmer in line to turn it down a bit but still mainly controlled with the dash switch.





You could just wire a resistor inline... might take a few trial and errors to get one that makes the guages match the factory for brightness, but that would eliminate another switch and make it cleaner.



steved
 
Or you could just get the darker green rubber that goes over the light. Or use a blue over the top of your green one. That might actually match the stock lighting even better. In fact, I just might try that as well. :-laf
 
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