Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Pump Timing

[Howard Durand]

I recently purchased all of the Miller and Snap On tools needed to adjust my timing.

I have read the TSB 18-10-94 over and pretty well understand the process except for how the thrust bearing and washer combination works.

The TSB instructions say to remove the nut and washer from the shaft, install the thrust bearing and washer assembly then replace the nut but it doesn't mention them after that.

Since they are installed between the gear and the nut, I would guess I would want to pull the gear until it is fairly snug against the thrust washers so it and the shaft can be held from turning.

Has anyone had experience with this?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

 

[jimk]

needle bearings

If I were you I would forget about the needle bearing thrust washer. I have been told by a very smart guy who knows what he is talking about to not use the bearing as it fell apart in to a timing cover and the little needles went every where.

Does as you wish, I assume the bearing is to help the gear to not turn as you tighten up the nut. I have used the timing tool several times and never used a thrust washer. The tool is snap on. The barring tool gave me some trouble and was hard to remove so I chucked it up in a lathe and remove some of the material from the OD. A word of wisdom also, check the cpl number of data tag to get the correct mm of lift. The 95 has two different cpl #, get the wrong # and you will be way off.

Timing is the only thing that I have done to give me better mileage. LOL Jimk

 

[1dslram]

I also did my timing without the thrust washer, and when done that way there is no reason to completely remove the nut.

Thus less chance of dropping parts in the timing case. For the timing spec's I use the timing chart from piers at http://www.piersdiesel.com/P7100Timing.htm



Bruce

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Jim K. did my timing like his and it works great for me.

 

[Rammin On]

You're making a mistake if you don't remove the nut and lockwasher ... . you need to do this to comletely clean the shaft taper and gear before you tighten it back up ... . otherwise you risk the chance of slipping the timing ... .

 

[1dslram]

Rammin: how do you remove the gear without removing the cover completely? 10" gear thru 3" opening that is the reason for the necessity for a magnet to keep from loosing parts inside the case.



Bruce

 

[Rammin On]

Of course you can't get the gear out without removing the front cover ... . and you also can't get any cleaner between the shaft and gear with the nut and lockwasher on the shaft ... .

 

[Howard Durand]

Thanks to all of you for your input. I never thought about the needle bearings coming apart but can see what a mess it would be if one did.

What kind of cleaner do you use to get the oil off the shaft and gear?

My CPL is 1959 and stock timing is 12. 3 degrees. I want to advance my timing and from what I read here on the Forum, 14. 5 to 15. 5 is recommended.

 

[1dslram]

OK I understand now. The spraying of cleaner into a closed area I try to avoid after seeing a couple of explosions that happened to others at start-up at the drag strip. :{

Happy Bombing

Bruce