Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Return Line Nightmare

[TSielski]

Hope someone has a a couple of good suggestions as I feel I'm beating my head against a wall.



Noticed small fuel leak a few weeks ago and parked my truck (95 2500 4x4) until I could discover and fix it. After some searching, the fuel return line, the steel line that comes from the front, engine side of the P7100 has a small crack right after the first hold-down bolt and is squirting diesel. As you probably know, this return line runs in between the P7100 and the engine, and that gap is small.



My nightmare is two-fold: I can easily remove the front hold-down bolt (the hold down clamp right after the banjo fitting at the very front) of this return line, but the second one to the rear, is installed from the bottom up and I can barely touch it, and then only with a finger nail. Unfortunately I am not Mr. Fantastic and can't stretch my arms or fingers. Can't see any access from underneath.

Does the P7100 itself have to be removed to remove this return line?

That would be a real issue as timing this beast is out of my league.



Second problem stems from work done years ago. I had replaced the old rubber return tubing that clamped over the end of the steel line with some braided SS line I had years ago when the stock rubber line was sucking air making starting difficult.

When I had the truck turned up later, the shop apparently made sure that braided SS line was inserted over the steel line at least two inches, and of course now it will not move. I can get my hand on this line but can't really exert much force.

So two issues I'm scratching my head over. Braided SS line only cuts with a hack saw, cutting wheel, or similar tool. Nowhere near the room to use one of those.

How does that rearward bolt come out without removing the P7100?



As always appreciate everyone's comments. The help on this forum has always been great.





tim

 

[LandShark]

I've been able to cut the SS braid with a new premium box cutter blade.

 

[GAmes]

I haven't crawled under mine to confirm this, but it may be possible to get to that bottom bolt if you remove the vacuum pump/power steering pump assy. It may be possible that you do not have to disconnect the PS hoses, just move the assy out of the way.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

You can get the rear mounting screw out with a flex-head ratchet with a 5/16” or 8 mm socket, but here is an easier approach: your local bosch or other fuel shop can sell you a banjo fitting with a nipple for 5/16” hose. Just bend the old banjo out of the way. At the back, the fuel return line is clamped to a piece of bent tubing which has a quick-disconnect fitting to another line that goes to the back of the truck. Disconnect, pull the line out, cut the hose. Route a new hose from this line forward to the new banjo.

 

[TSielski]

Thanks guys. I'll try the flex head ratchet, tho I only have a long handle 3/8" drive piece. May have to source either a 1/4" or a 3/8" stubby.



Was hoping I wouldn't have to go the shade-tree route but it is looking as the only way. I do have quite a bit of annealed, seamless 3/8 SS tubing which I can bend up to form another return line after flaring the ends, or using compression-type connectors.

Once that lower bolt is out tho still have to cut the braided SS line, if I can't remove it from the end of the old steel line.

Working on this truck at times resembles a leadership reaction course.

 

[TSielski]

Back on the road!. Many thanks to all who took the time to offer a suggestion. As expected Joe Donnelly's tip about the flex head ratchet proved the cat's meow. Got the old steel line out, cut it near the banjo fitting and put a double flare on the end. Having the old steel line completely loose proved critical to pulling it from the braided SS line as well (some old Earls stuff). About 12" of 30R9 diesel fuel hose and a length of my 3/8" annealed SS tubing later the return line is RR'd.