Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel return line split

[Bart]

Just got home from an Early Bronco meet out in the desert. '66 Bronco did great, but Dodge(Bart) didn't. I noticed a smell of diesel fuel and after letting it leak on the garage floor I trased the leak back to behind the first bracket on the return fuel line after the overflow valve. Does anyone one know of an easy fix for this?? Looks to me like the injector pump may have to come off, the fuel filter and shutdown solnoid must come off to replace this line. I had a job picking up an easy $400 this next Friday moving a construction trailer but don't think that it would be smart with the leaking fuel line. What if it splits worse. Any ideas out there. I thought of an epoxy (like J/B weld) since it's low pressure, but will J/B stand up to 30'ish psi??? Ideas please.

 

[bighammer]

So you're talking about the metal line just after the overflow valve? Sounds strange for that break.



I don't think the pressure is anywhere close to that high after the overflow valve. After the overflow valve it should just go to the tank with very little pressure if any. Of course I could be wrong again... .



Was it really spraying out of there? Could there be a restriction further down the line?

 

[Bart]

No to the question about spray. Yes, to the metal line just after the overflow valve. It looked more like a drip (about every four or five seconds) that the engine fan was blowing around. At first I couldn't tell if it was dripping down from above the bracket or blowing up. I put a piece of cardboard in there and after removing it only the bottom was wet. This indicated to me that the line (under the cardboard) was leaking and of course it's on the back side of the line so I can see for sure. I can only guess at this point that the line split from vibration.

 

[illflem]

I've looked at removing this line before in order to cut it off right past the overflow valve and going with hose from there back but have never done it. There are two hold down bolts, only one you can see, looked to me like the only thing you would need to remove is the intake horn to get at the bolt you can't see. You will also have to remove the fuel filter in order to disconnect the rubber hose from the line.

Others have reported leaks in the same location as you, seems to be due to the hold down weld to the tube weakening it. JB weld might work if if you can get the area clean enough (tough order), the pressure in that location should be way under 10 psi. If your problem happened to me and removing the line required removing the IP I'd just cut the line near the overflow and bend the broken line out of the way and go with hose the rest of the way, but then I prefer simple solutions to problems. It's not like the leaking line is worth anything, you have little to lose but a little bit of hose. The leak is going to cause you hard starting if the truck sits for more than a day or so until you fix it.

 

[Bart]

Thanks, that sounds like the best thing to do. I NEED that truck. I just sold my old car trailer and need to buy another one, but can't tow another trailer without BART.

 

[dremelts]

Bart,



I had the same exact problem a couple of months ago. The return line cracked and was leaking fuel. I had real hard time finding the source of the leak because the return line disappears underneath and behind everything and to make it worse the sound deadener insulation on the tappet cover was loose so the fuel was dripping between the tappet cover and the insulation and then just seeping out and running down the side of the engine.



Anyway, the part number (for my 98 12v) is 3923171 ($47. 06) and you might as well get a couple of the flat seals for the overflow valve too. The whole job can be done from the topside without disturbing the inj. pump but, like illflem said, you will want to remove the fuel filter, intercooler tube and air horn to make it a little easier to get at things. You also have to disconnect the external oil line to the inj. pump.



Have fun - I sure don't look forward to do that job again.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

There was a bad batch of lines that cracked at the strap that bolts to the pump. You can go to a hose shop and buy a banjo fittin with a hose barb on it. Bend the line out of the way until you have time to remove it (the pump can stay on the engine but it takes a while since there is a bracket to the rear of the governor too).

 

[bighammer]

I'm also chasing a leak in the old 94. I still can't see where it's coming from, but it's time to get serious. Just casual looks until now have shown me nothing. All I know is the starter is soaked, heater is dry, little bit on lift pump and filter drain. (but I don' think either of those are the source)

 

[Joe G.]

Bighammer,



Check where the fuel manifold line returns to the fuel filter from the injectors. There is a double banjo fitting on top of the fuel filter bracket. I had a leak there and the wet places are the same as you describe. The return line is on top banjo and the line from the lift pump is on the bottom. If that's the leak you will need some new washer gaskets. Easy to fix, hard to find.