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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel Sending Unit or Module?

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Hi guys. While sitting on an off-ramp today in a traffic jam I watched my gauge go from 3/4 tank to Full in about 3 seconds, now it's stuck on Full. :mad: I've read a bunch of posts reference loosing the fuel gauge but I can't see anywhere how to tell (if possible) whether it's the sending unit or module. I'm a novice level shade tree-er with some tools so I think I would tackle the job of replacing the sending unit considering the time/money involved. Isn't the module a very expensive part?



This is very frustrating as I've had this truck for about a month and had to get the front end aligned on week 1, get a new LP installed on week 3, and now week 4 and this happens. I really like the truck but as these stupid things mount up it's hard to justify to the wife how great these trucks are (especially when our old 96 1500 is sitting on the street w/no problems whatsoever).



I really would like a fuel guage as the first couple of weeks I owned the truck I drove it with a bad LP and the milage suffered because of that. This was my first attempt at a full tank run to determine my new mileage, not to mention I have no clue what to expect for mileage towing my camper (which we'll be doing this weekend). Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated.
 
If they're the same as the 97's they're fairly easy to change out, and cost about $45. 00 at the dealer. I dropped my tank from underneath by straddling a ditch. Disconnect the fill hose, and the small ones going into the module first, drop the tank, and unscrew the big plastic ring. Pull out the module, the sending unit with float arm screws to the side of it. When you replace it, bend the float arm down to within an inch or so from the bottom of the tank. Stock, the sending unit will bottom out and hang 3" above the bottom of the tank when reading "E", and you'll still have 3" of fuel left. An inch off the bottom gives you a more accurate "E" reading, with a couple of gallons left.
 
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