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Fuel shut off sol. install..did I miss something?

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The old fuel shut off solenoid bit the big one awhile back. Installed the new updated version with the new bracket on the 20th and it's been working like a charm. Went to crank it this morning and #ad
no go! Left the key on and popped the hood. Sure enough, reached in and pulled the rod up and the sol. locked into place. She cranked right on up. The tech I talked to said to check all my connections #ad
and such. I went ahead and put dielectric grease in the plug as it's been a bit wet around here and I figured it couldn't hurt to insulate the terminals a little extra. I've ordered a new relay for the fuel shut off solenoid and I'm gonna go ahead and install that too. It's the relay mounted on the firewall directly behind the pump area that acually looks like two relays together. The way it was explained to me, the solenoid is supposed to get an extra shot of "juice" to engage and then after it startes, it reduces the amount, due to the fact it doesn't require as much to hold it in the "on" position. I know this is a real common item to replace. Have I missed anything? Do ya'll think I may have just gotten a defective replacement solenoid? It's been working fine all afternoon but I know it's bound to act up again and don't want it to do it when the ol' ball and chain is driving it, especially considering what I just paid for the replacement solenoid.

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95 2500 SLT Laramie 3. 54, automatic,Herculiner bed liner, JVC cd out of factory infinity system, southwest grill gaurd (a favorite amongst the deer population), K&N, AFC adjusted, dual straight exhaust out of "gutless" cat, Geno's dual EGT/boost gauge, TST #6 plate slid all the way forward, AFC housing slid all the way forward, silencer ring removed
"Layin' the 'SMOKEDOWN' on their ROOdy Poo CANDY GASSERS!"
 
danandme,
Don't know about less juice after starting.
But I do know there are two coils inside of soleniod, One for start up, the other for run. The relay has two circuits also to handle this. But it is the igniton switch that controls which one is getting power.
Should be able to check relay out to see if working OK.
Mite want to check wiring coming out of starter relay this is where the wiring splits going to fuel shut off relay /solenoid and starter solenoid when in start position.
Try to see which wire is for start and run. Should be able to find out by pulling connector going to FSO soleniod, turn key to run position, check wires in connector with test light. Mite be able to do this in start position. So if does it again you can by pass FSO relay give FSO soleniod juice from other source and see if it works(FSO solenoid0.
 
I've had a whole lot of the 94-95 trucks with bad relays in them. Sometimes they go bad with moisture too.

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520 Rear Wheel H. P. and locomotive level torque = 15. 5 sec @ 97 mph with the rear wheels spinning in 5th gear going through the traps in the quarter mile. No slicks here, pal, no fancy auto transmission, just the truck in full street trim, 7400 lbs. of Auto Wurks Diesel/BD Performance raging, fire-breathing DIESEL POWER
 
I have a 95 that did the no start thing. I traced it back to the positive battery post being corroded, cleaned the connections, and did not have to buy a new solenoid.


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95 2500 auto reg cab TST # 12 (a friend had this one extra)for now. 128K,Looking at many choices for FUN!!Bob Berends
 
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