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Fuel shut off solenoid

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Just had my 2500 dodge serviced (Throttle rod), had a problem

of warm start-up and shut-down.

Informed that it was the fuel shut off solenoid. A $400. 00 +

part, plus labor.

Has anyone had this part replaced/? What does it do?

Is it a dodge part? Can i get it from Cumings?

Is it hard to replace?



Asking a lot



JimE
 
BEFORE you go buying a $400 fuel shut down solenoid, try replacing the relay. it is on the firewall. there should be two and it is the one on the outboard (port) side. it costs about $20. keep a spare in the glove box. good luck. scott.
 
Jim,



The fuel solenoid is kind of like the ignition on a gasser. It turns on the fuel to the injection pump so you can start and run the engine. It turns off fuel to shut down. There are two coils: a pull on and a hold. The pull on is a high current coil used to open the fuel valve. The hold is a low current coil that keeps the fuel valve open.



A LOT of fuel solenoids are replaced when that's not really the problem. It's more likely the relay. You can test the solenoid pretty easy. There is a large three wire connector on the top of the wiring harness between the master cylinder and the engine. The black wire with the tracer is ground and the white wire is the pull on coil. You need at least #10 wire for your test leads. Separate the connector. Apply the ground test wire to the terminal to the black wire in the connector and 12 volts to the white wire. The solenoid should pull up. If it does not then disconnect the linkage and try it again. It it works then the problem is most likely the relay.



Starter contacts can cause similar symptoms it they stick a little.



If you don't have a service manual GET ONE!! It will more than pay for itself if you can avoid ONE trip to the dealer, especially for something like this. It would be cheap at twice the price! For example, if the dealer changes the fuel solenoid and it's not the problem the cost would buy a several copies of the service manual.
 
JimE,



I just went through this because of my starter stuck and I smoked my selenoid.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31403



It's tight but the change out is not hard. This selenoid is "improved" and somewhat larger in size. On my 97' with ABS, I have little clearence between the selenoid and my master cylinder now. I need to go back in and see what I can do about that.



I did pay the theft rate at the dealer. Email me for some alternate suggestions if you can wait.
 
Yea I had one go bad too, I also paid the stealer to replace ... while he was at it I had him do the upgrade on the linkage... TOTAL: $900+... . Then I read here that the linkage has been recalled... ..... YIPPEEEEEE!!! that'll be 400 cash back please!

SURE bib bills are fine!:) :D :D :D
 
Fuel Solenoid follow-up

Went through all the check points on the solenoid. It seemed

to be working. Went on to the relay. Not takeing any chances

i replaced both units. ($45. 00) . A no brainer compared to $400. 00. Everything AOK.

Once again the TDR members came thru. Keep up the good

work.



Go Eagles



JimE
 
Hey Jim, I had a relay go bad on me this past summer, but thought it was the shut off solenoid. It was like $415 bucks at the dodge house, and like $268 at Cummins. It turned out that I did not bolt the new relay on, therefore it was not grounded, lucky for me cummins refunded my cash. Be sure to bolt on the new relay to the firewall. Hope this helps.
 
When I had a problem with hard starting it turned out to be the relay, got one from Radio Shack for about 7 bucks, its a little smaller than the original but its been on for about 4 months now with no problems, and its not grounded either still no problems. saw the same relay in Advance Auto Parts for about 5 bucks, its used alot with aftermarket driving light wiring. I found the same relay in a bunch of wires where I took lights off a car I bought, now I keep it for a spare.
 
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