Fuel Shut Off Solinoid

[rjones]

What would be some of the signs if the shut off valve is not adjusted correctly?

 

[Todd T]

low power usually... sometimes hard starting if its real bad.

 

[rjones]

Originally posted by Todd T

low power usually... sometimes hard starting if its real bad.

Is there a link on how to adjust them? When I bought the truck the dealership said they put a new one on,but not sure if they new how to properly adjust it cuz I found other things they did that were screwd up.

 

[TNT]

96 CTD

I had one go bad on my old truck. Some times it would not kill the motor. Some times it would not start. And once while driving it started losing rpm's in till it finally died:--)

 

[Todd T]

search is dead right now

this is what you do,



1. turn the key on

2. get under hood and pull up the solenoid by hand (it will stay up when you let go)

3. measure from the bottom of the solenoid mounting bracket to the top of the pin (not the center, the TOP)

4. it should measure 2. 64 inches lets see thats, 2 and 41/64ths or about a hair bigger than 2 5/8ths on standard tape.

5. if its not close loosen the nut on the shaf and adjust to make it right.





hope that helps...

 

[rjones]

Re: search is dead right now

Originally posted by Todd T

this is what you do,



1. turn the key on

2. get under hood and pull up the solenoid by hand (it will stay up when you let go)

3. measure from the bottom of the solenoid mounting bracket to the top of the pin (not the center, the TOP)

4. it should measure 2. 64 inches lets see thats, 2 and 41/64ths or about a hair bigger than 2 5/8ths on standard tape.

5. if its not close loosen the nut on the shaf and adjust to make it right.





hope that helps...

Thank youOo.

 

[JimE]

Fuel Solenoid Replacement

Hey Guys



I got all the symptoms of a faulty fuel selenoid. Replaced the

relay and did all the checks. I was told buy the dealer that

this is a $300. 00+ part. The on line info (TDR) is that cummings

sells it for $225. 00. Is this strickly a dodge/cummings part?

I have the manual and it looks like its not that hard to replace.

Thinking about doing the job myself.



Please advise



JimE.

 

[TurboMike]

I've the shutoff problems myself. About a year ago I had one go bad and I replaced it with one that bought from Cummins for approx $160. When I bought that one I was told that it was the last one of that "model" that they had in stock in the Atlanta store and that they had come out with a new one that was more exspensive. Well, now a year later I've got somthing else going haywire with my shutoff silenoid. It has to be manually pulled up in order to start. The first thing I did was replace the relay (approx $50), and that didn't fix it. I took that part back becasue I figured it was the silenoid. It cost me $285 for the new one fron Cummins. It is about a 1/4 bigger than the old one and feels heavier. I unpluged the old one and pluged to new one up to the truck, and nothing. I've still got the same problem.

I don't know how to work a voltage checker. If someone could point that out to me I could figure out if the the relay is working or not. Any help would be appreciated. The only thing that I can figure is that both the relay, and the silenoid went bad.

 

[illflem]

Your starter motor contacts could also be bad, they supply the signal to the solenoid relay. There is thread on the second page of this forum on were to buy contact kits for $16 or $2. 50 for just the contacts. The fuel shutdown solenoid is a very simple device that should last the life of the engine, many are replaced by folks throwing expensive parts at a problem that lies elsewhere. Also check electrical connectors and clean the solenoid if it is full of crud. You can run a jumper straight to the solenoid from the battery to see if the problem truely lies with it.

 

[moparguy]

More free advise.

And you know what they say about free advise. Clean the connections on the drivers side battery, be sure to pay extra attention to the blue wire, this is the wire that powers the solenoid.



I chased the same problem for days on my truck, cleaning the cables was all that was needed.

 

[Todd T]

things to look at;



starter contacts, starter relay, battery cables (blue wire on drivers side battery too), solenoid (test it 1st dont replace it) solenoid relay, clean and inpsect all connections to all these Items while testing too.



at the firewall in the drivers (left) corner there are three harness connections. the top one has a Brown 12guage wire. that wire sends voltage to the shutoff solenoid relay FROM the Starter relay during cranking. the fastest way to test the shutoff solenoid and its relay and connections is to open that connector and place 12volts on to the brown wire to the side heading towards the relay. (caution, dont hold voltage to the solenoid, a few seconds is all it can stand) the solenoid should fire every time. if it does your relay AND solenoid are GOOD.



by using this method, you are testing the relay, its connectors, solenoid and solenoid relay power supply (blue wire coming from battery)



if the relay and solenoid work flawlessly then look at the starter relay in PDC(on fender) starter contacts and the brown feed wire from starter. i would throw in new contacts in the starter and clean an grease the brown wire on reassembly. BTW the contacts are still on back order if youre wanting them from me.

 

[Turbo Thom]

I agree with BillF.

A lot of time folks through parts at things that just aren't necessary. In my case the boot was rotten and falling apart. Nooooooobody would sell me a boot. I did find a new solenoid at Assoc. Diesel on Moreland Ave in Conley, Ga for $113. There are just down the hill from STP. I also found a friend with a boot so now I have an extra one.



Later.



. . Preston. .