Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Shutoff Solenoid acts up...then quits

[fortunate1]

This past weekend my truck wouldn't fire up a couple of times, even though the engine turned over fine. I suspected the solenoid, and pulled up on the shaft while the key was on (just as I've heard others in their posts on TDR). That did the trick. The engine would start other times without doing this.



So I took some time today to remove the solenoid and clean it. I also did the "bicycle tire tube" repair since the rubber boot had some holes in it from dry rot. I also replaced the relay for the solenoid in the fuse/relay box with the Radio Shack #275-0226. The relay wasn't the problem, as I switched relays from other functions (horn, A/C, etc. ) and everything still worked fine. The other large relay at the top of the firewall won't switch out like the smaller one in the box. It has wires that run directly into it. Could this relay be the problem? How do you change it? Cut the wires and re-splice?



Now the solenoid has quit working altogether. The shaft won't go up OR stay up with the key in "run" position. I tried to get the solenoid to actuate by putting 12 volts directly to it. No movement at all. I can reach under there and pull the shaft up by hand; it just won't stay, and the spring pushes it back to the "shutdown" (extended) position.



Any ideas? Time for a new solenoid? Ouch... Cummins Atlantic wants almost $300 for one.

 

[illflem]

$19. 90 for the relay here http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

No need to cut wires, there is a socket

 

[Crash_AF]

For a temp fix, there are three wires on the solenoid, but only two wires that have to be used to keep the solenoid up. One is the pull up, one is the hold up, and the other is a ground.



At least, that's the way it is on my donor 94. As always, YMMV...



Later,

Joe H

 

[fortunate1]

Update...

Thanks for the tips. New relay is in - still no love. I tried again to jump the fuel shutoff solenoid with 12 volts direct, but it does nothing. I guess I'll have to get a new solenoid, cuz I need my truck for my work.



How are you supposed to measure 2. 64" from the bottom of the mounting plate to the top of the lever pin accurately? It seems that there is quite an angle because of the rubber boot.

 

[illflem]

Check the blue wire that comes off your driver's side battery positive terminal with a meter. This wire is a fusible link that supplies power to the solenoid. They can sometimes fry with no visible damage on the outside or get corroded though right at the battery.



Quite a few guys have scraped the electric fuel shutoff and replaced it with a simple manual choke type cable, works just great. I know if I ever have to replace the $200+ solenoid that's route I'll be taking.

It eliminates the chances of the solenoid, relay, wiring and key switch from keeping you from where you want to go.

 

[Crash_AF]

Can you post details on how to do this conversion? I'd love to get rid of the electronic solenoid on my F-350 conversion.



Thanks,

Joe H

 

[illflem]

I've only looked at what would be involved, never done it. It appeared to be straight forward though. Maybe someone who has done it could jump in. Ken?

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by fortunate1

I also replaced the relay for the solenoid in the fuse/relay box with the Radio Shack #275-0226. The relay wasn't the problem, as I switched relays from other functions (horn, A/C, etc. ) and everything still worked fine. The other large relay at the top of the firewall won't switch out like the smaller one in the box. It has wires that run directly into it. Could this relay be the problem? How do you change it? Cut the wires and re-splice?

The one you want to look at is the big one on the firewall, not the ones in the PDC under the hood. It is a 30 amp relay if I remember right. It doesn't need to have 5 pins, just four. The plug only has 4 in it. A smaller sized (same amperage) relay should plug in.