Here I am

Archived Fuel Shutoff Solenoid?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Archived auto transmission, shifting problems

Archived Not shifting into 3rd gear

Status
Not open for further replies.
When I went to turn off truck this evening, turned off the ignition and the engine kept running. I cycled the ignition switch off and on five or six times and the engine finally shut down.

The last few times I’ve turned the ignition switch off it has taken a couple of extra seconds for the truck to shut off. Does this sound like a fuel shutoff solenoid? If so where is it located and how hard is it to change? My Chilton book shows a picture that doesn’t look anything like my engine. Truck has 125000 miles on it. Is there a way to shut down the engine if this happens?

Thanks as always, Jeff
 
A fuel solenoid failure is rare. There are a lot of them replaced that are really ok. There are two prime suspects. The fuel solenoid relay and starter contacts. There is a boot on the fuel solenoid rod that may be bad. That can cause it to stick. You can test the solenoid to see what it does. There is a large three wire connector on top of the wire harnesses behind the air horn. Two of the wires are large. The large black wire is ground. The other large wire is the pull on coil. The small wire is the hold coil. Pull the connector apart. Attach a ground to the black wire terminal. Touch 12 volts to the other large wire (usually white). The fuel solenoid should pull up. If 12 volts is applied to the other wire the fuel solenoid will stay up even if it is pulled up by hand. Search the 12 valve forum for more stuff about the fuel solenoid than you really want to know.
 
Thanks for the information Joe. I going to test it tommorow afternoon. I did a search and the relay has been the problem in most of the posts. Just had the starter rebuilt so I'm sure that it's not the problem. Thank's again, Jeff
 
Fuel shutoff solenoid thread;

Hey Jeff... found it.

The thread title is: "fuel shuff solenoid"

It is by "Butch Brandt". It is recent, last week !!

One of the reply's was: "Check the blue fusible link wire at the driver's side battery, + terminal. Corrosion can interrupt circuit continuity and then the relay on the firewall won't work, and the fuel solenoid won't get juice for the pull-up mode. If you pull up the solenoid manually, it may still get power to remain up (engine run mode). " There were several reply's there, I suspect this may be of help to you !!
 
sounds like power from battery or alternator could be leaking into the key on run wires. Does the rest of your accessories turn off fast. Also could be a bind up were the solenois hooks to the arm, . . maybe the cotter key came out that holds the solenoid arm to the fuel shut off arm
 
Everything was fine this afternoon when I went out to test the solenoid. Truck started and shut off fine. Should I change the relay and drive on or just leave it alone. If it happens again can I pull down on the fuel solenoid plunger and shut the truck off.

I tried to pull it down after the truck was running and I couldn't' move it. If the key was off could I pull on it and shut the engine down. Thanks to all of you who offered help. Jeff
 
Engine will not shut off;

Jeff, I am looking at my manual and it list 3 reasons why the engine will not shut off;

1/ "Engine is running on fumes drawn into the air intake. " To correct: Check the air intake ducts. Locate ans isolate the source of the fumes.

2/ " The fuel shut off valve is malfunctioning".

To correct: "Stop the engine mechanically by moving the manual shutoff lever to the STOP position, Check for correct solenoid operation. Refer to procedure 005-043". 005-043

discusses cleaning the area around the solenoid and checking to be sure that the white wire is sound and of the same lenght as the black (ground) wire, and of the proper guage. Then it goes on to describe how to remove the wire and then the solenoid valve (being CAREFUL not to drop the plunger and spring or DAMAGE to the fuel pump can result). Then it goes on to tell you how to disasemble the fuel pump and test for resistance in the wires, etc. If you need specs on this, give a shout. . the fix covers about 5 pages !!

3/ "Fuel injection pump is malfunctioning. "

To correct: "Remove the fuel pump. Refer to procedure 005-012 or 005-014. Calibrate the fuel pump". 005-012 & 014 are instructions for identifying the pump, checking linkage, timing the pump, etc. . This one looks like a job for the Cummins mechanic !!



Hope this helps...
 
idea...

Next time it doesn't shutoff, jump under the hood and pull the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid RELAY and see if this shuts her down. If so, I'd suspect the Fuel shutoff Solenoid.



If you decide this is the culprit, PM me. My $380 Solenoid went bad and I replaced the fusable link, and the relay several times - in the end it was the solenoid.



The good news is that I removed the solenoid sompletely and now use a PTO cable mounted conveniently in front of my right knee to shut her down. Install was straight foreword and it only cost $23 including shipping !!!!! That's a $375 savings and no more fusable link, relay, or solenoid to ever wear out.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top