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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel solenoid repairs

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 98.5 24v w/ 621K miles

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Bought a 12V

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Hi Guys& girls



I'm still having trouble starting... . the fuel solenoid is not pulling up, I replaced the relay with one from radio shack and it actually was working fine for about a week then one day " NO GO" now everytime I want to start I have to do the "lift the hood and push up the shaft bit"and it starts with the first turn of the key.



I have the truck plugged in, since it is still 10 to 15 below here most nights can this solenoid be repaired? I have a real good automotive electrical shop two blocks away that does good work. I have no garage and am a wooose about the cold.



Any help will be much appreciated :)
 
About the only repair you can do on the solenoid is to clean it and replace the rubber boot if it's deteriorated. Good news is that it's rare for them to fail unless worn starter contacts stick causing the solenoid lift coil to overheat and fry.

It sounds to me like you have a wiring problem, that's usually the case when new parts fix a problem for a short time, just the act of moving things around can temporarily make a bad connection good. Check all your connections especally the larger blue wire from the battery, this one is a common problem and may be corroded under the insulation where you can't see it.
 
More info/questions

I have cleaned the connections at the battery( especially the blue wire) but still the same... the soleniod only will pull up if pushed up by hand and stays there.



It pushes up fairly easy when the key is turned on ... but I disconnected the relay and it still operates the same way... as when the relay is connected



in other words the solinoid stays in when pushed up by hand with the relay disconnected... . is this Normal??
 
fuel selinoid

how about going to the search forum and look for how to test it. also, how about going manual for the time being, tell better weather gets to you. good luck.

just my penny's worth.



Marv.
 
Originally posted by illflem

About the only repair you can do on the solenoid is to clean it and replace the rubber boot if it's deteriorated.





illflem,



Where can the rubber boots be purchased? Mine still works good, but notice the rubber boot is starting to get brittle and deteriorate.
 
I've had good luck repairing mine when it's acted up. However, next time, it's outta here. I'm gonna install a push pull cable.



A search should yeild some info.
 
I just fixed that problem and all it took was remove the solinoid and clean the bore and make a new boot from a bicycle inner tube which was a fix pioneered by another member and seems to work good. I will try to post a pic of the boot fix.

With the solinoid wiring connector disconnected apply ground to the black wire contact and 12volts to the white wire contact and the solinoid should pull in. I had mine off the truck when I did this and it almost jumped out of my hand, it really pulls in fast.
 
I bought a solenoid boot (part number 3925171) for $19. 95 from Cummins NW but others have said this number is no good. All I know is it worked for me.

Innertube fix looks good. I've used bike intertubes to replace ball joint boots with success, prefer the puncture proof type and have used stainless steel tie wire rather than cable ties.
 
solenoid relay

If you disconnect the relay from the wiring then turn the key ,,, push up on the solinoid should the shaft stay up?



I have found a garage and plan to pull off the solinoid this monday am I to understand that the boot will get ruined when trying to get at the shaft?



One more Question what size socket for the bolts?



Thanks guys for all the help I will search out testing procedures



16 below zero here this morning.
 
10mm bolts hold the relay in place.



Yes

The fuel solenoid has 2 coils. One is activated with just the key on. The second one is through the ice cube relay on the firewall and triggered by the starter circuit.



Your boot is probably shot.





<blockquote><em>&quot; ... 16 below zero here this morning. &quot; </em></blockquote>



wuss It was -18&deg; this morning PLUS a 10 mph wind to really make it chilly.
 
Originally posted by nopowerforme

Hi Guys& girls

I replaced the relay with one from radio shack and it actually was working fine for about a week then one day " NO GO"



Check this relay again. You may have gotten a 30amp relay where a 70amp relay is required. If this is the case it may only last a week under overload conditions.



Notice the huge lugs on this 70amp relay. (I know, huge lugs are nice :eek: ) The 30 amp relay will plug in and work but probably won't last.



Larry:D



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I was looking for the relay a couple of weekends ago and couldn't seem to figure out which one it was, and/or how to remove it. In all fairness, I didn't have my manual out there with me, or I would have looked at it. Does anyone have a pic of the relay on the wall and advice on how to get it off without tearing the hell out of it?



Eric
 
Relay

It is the larger one of the two on the firewall. Unplug it and carefully set it up in a vice with the spades up. using a small screwdriver, pry the sides out and slide a thin feeler guage down into the side to release the clip inside.

Do the same on all four sides. You should end up with four guages or shims in it. Now pull gently up on one of the spades and it will come right out. You can now inspect the points or clean them and reinstall.

P. S. Take note of the position that it came out so you can put it back the way it belongs.
 
Solenoid Relay

Cleaning the relay contacts solved my intermittant no start problem. A big thanks to those who pointed me in the right direction (Joe G. and others)!Oo. Oo. Oo.
 
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