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FUEL TANK & BREAK FLUID ?

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'03 Lift Pump

Gauge Mount options....

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Help! With the fuel tank mod, 18 months now, fuel tank as given a reading why high for fuel remaining... tryed to recalibrate, now reads more high, all the time... need some help with this... also, just put on mich 265/70r/17's, those are the factory tires, three of them, used the spear, as it was never used... checked the pads, will have to replace them soon; Question: How do i flush and replace break fluid?? Thanks in advance to one and all... also, the tires had 47. 5K, still had about 5k, but some wear on outer edge's...



Eric - '03 QC SRW SWB SLC 6SPD ANTI-SLIP WHITE 4X4 3:73 only Mopar stuff and Schekelhimrer(sp) towing mirror's/with turn lites
 
The way we flush the brake fluid is to open the bleeder after the pads are removed and we've inspected the boot around the piston... . If the boot is good and not weather damaged... or heat damaged we put a c-clamp into the caliper and compress the piston... . we attach a hose to the bleeder and allow the brake fluid to go into a container as we compress the piston... . once all the brake fluid is out..... we open the master cylinder and add back to the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid... .



We pump the pedal slowly... . when the pedal is to the floor... we close the bleeder... . let the pedal up... . open the bleeder and push the pedal down again... . we cycle this 2 or 3 times until we have clean brake fluid at the caliper... . we close the caliper and leave the c-clamp, going on to the next caliper... .



A word of caution here... . if any of the calipers have the pads out... you'll pop the piston free..... we either don't take it apart... . or put a piece of 2x4 in the caliper to prevent this from happening.....



If we are only doing one axle... we do this to the other axle to flush it clear... .



We than install the new parts..... put the truck back together and bleed the brakes starting with the longest line..... if we forget to fill the master we start all over... .



We usually will use a quart of brake fluid to do this..... follow the specifications in your owners manual and don't mix other DOT standards for brake fluid unless the label says you can... . Some DON'T mix... .



If you have edge wear on your tires. . are you rotatiing them every 10,000 miles or so...
 
Eric,





If your gauge is reading high, it may be because your float is hanging up on the side of the tank. On the '03, you have to be very careful when you re-install the in-tank module.

In the pic below, the white arrow points to 3 hash marks on the tank itself. These should line up with the white triangle on top of the in-tank module (red arrow). The black arrow points to the green mark made at the factory that you can use to re-tighten the white locking ring when you reinstall it.



If the triangle is not lined up with the hash marks, the float could contact the side of the tank and get stuck at a level that would prevent it from showing the lower fuel level.



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Jim, thanks for the info on the breaks... does this timed and true methed work with the ABS? Thanks again!

Eric
 
Eric



We own 6 trucks... from a 93 all the way up to an 05, several are listed in my signature... . this is how we do it all the time...



Jim
 
Ryan - Thanks for the help with the up coming brake job... Sounds as if you had a difficult time with the bleeders...

Eric
 
Jelag: Thanks for the grate picture of the fuel tank mark's... after studing your picture, went ahead and repostioned the triangle with the three lines... it was off about 1/2, 5/8 inch... Now the fuel gage shows 3/4 tank, with half a tank remanining... any sugguestions? Maybe the float is bent or... Thanks again...

Eric
 
The float could be bent, but bending it might be hard to get right. If you didn't bend it when it was out, it might be a bad sending unit. My guess is that this will require a new in-tank module.



I'm wondering if there's a way to test the fuel gauge or sending unit.

This pic is the in-tank module out of my truck. Here's what the arm should look like:



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To test the gauge you can do the instrument cluster test. This is the one some of us do by accident when we're trying to get the hour meter to show up! The fuel gauge in the diesel trucks gets it's info from the ECM (Engine Control Module) and not the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) like the gas engines.



Here's how to do the test:





1. With the ignition switch in the off position, depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.



2. Hold the odometer/trip odometer button down and turn the ignition switch to the on position, but don't start the engine.



3. Release the odometer/trip odometer button.



4. Watch the fuel gauge needle and it should sweep to several calibration points on the gauge which will confirm that the gauge is working and the instrument cluster circuitry is working.



If this is normal, I would say your problem is in the in-tank module or your ECM. Let us know what you find.
 
Spooled-up: Hey, thanks for the pictures! Now, i'm away from the CTD, will not be able to work on the fuel gage thing until Sat, or Sun... The pictures are really helpful...

Eric
 
Spooled-up! The thing with the odometer button/ignition really worked! Alas, all gages checked o. k. Not the ECM, sooooo, i'll be dropping the tank again...

Thanks for the info... .

Eric
 
Eric,



As to the brake fluid question, it's easier and quicker to just take the truck to a brake shop and pay them to power flush the system. My wife's Grand Cherokee started to show an intermittent ABS light sometime after I manually bled them. After a power bleed at Brake Masters (48. 00 dollars) the problem is solved.



Just my two cents worth.



RAH out.
 
Spooled-up: Thanks for the info on the FUEL gage! I had to drop the tank (again!), but that seems to have done the trick! After looking inside the tank, found a nitch that the floot seems to match up with, along with the 3hash marks and triangle... your information did the trick! Thanks,

Eric
 
You wont get the anti lock system bled unless they attach a scan tool and activate the servos during the bleed. Dealer gets $100 for this minor service but thats a lot cheaper than 2k+ to replace the A/L system.



Scotty
 
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