2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission fuel tank rollover valve

[mwilson]

Have owned 24 valve 98. 5 for about 10 days and have my first question. Have a lot of vacuum in the tank and am worried about harming the delicate lift pump. Read posts regarding factory shipping cap on vent and with the aid of a mirror and a big maglight found vent tube plugged with dirt. Rooted it out with wire and a drill bit and giant sucking noise went away. Now three days and 400 miles later it's back! Now rollover valve is my next thought. Is it easy to change or do I have to drop tank? Not a lot of extra room in there being a short body. Sold my 94 12 valve to my son, maybe should trade with him?? Just kidding so far. If someone has experience changing this valve I would welcome some advice before I tackle this.



P. S. Should I make son buy his own membership or let him look over my shoulder? My fault for getting him hooked on Cummins and the TDR!!!



Thanks, Mike (and now Seth)

 

[B.G. Smith]

Rollover valve

The rollover valve and tank vent are one and the same on our truck. According to the manual, it just has a check ball in it so fuel won't run out if the tank is overturned. I would try to clean it again. The book say you have to pull the tank to get to it but it is servicable as a unit, snaps into a rubber grommet. Maybe you have some overactyive dirtdobbers around there? I had to tighten the nut that holds the fuel pickup/return etc. some time ago and I could see it better from the passenger side of the drive shaft. I would share the screen with son. bg

 

[rweis]

maybe some screen around the vent with a clamp to hold it on to keep "critters and stuff" out?



I flushed mine good with WD40 and brass (vs fiberglass) screened it and a small hose clamp.



Bob Weis

 

[mwilson]

I will try another cleaning. Would like to put some shop air to it but hate to drive a bunch of junk into the tank. My vent points to the drivers side of truck. Where it is mounted in rubber maybe I can spin it around a little so I can get at it a little easier. Thanks for the reply and the vote for the boy.

Mike

 

[illflem]

Mud dabber wasps took to plugging mine up a few summers back. They also plugged every single power outlet ground prong hole in the shop. My solution was connect about three feet of hose to attached to the frame with steel wool cable tied to the open end.

Got used to blowing out the ground prongs with air before using them or leaving things plugged in, it was a pain.

 

[mwilson]

I like the hose idea as the liberal use of liquid calcium and salt sand on the roads up here will plug this thing all winter long. I think I have some kind of Mud Dauber riding the frame rails for sure. The 94 never bothered and I am going to look for any difference between the two trucks. Again thanks for all these replies, it really helps. All the truck mechanics at work view these trucks as some kind of cute mutant and are not familier with the things Dodge had to do to accept the Cummins engine. You guys help fill in the blanks.

 

[Cooker]

I replaced my rollover valve.



Follow this link for some additional info:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=50927

 

[mwilson]

Do you think I have room to get it out on my shortbody? Seems wicked tight up in there.

 

[Cooker]

If the valve is under the bed and not the cab you should be ok.

 

[rashwor]

Had this problem with my '99

Sucking sound and all. I unstopped the valve with wire like you, two days later stopped up again (alot of mud in the winter).



My permanent solution was to drill a very small hole on the inside of the fuel cap. Instant vent and it does not stop up. If the truck overturns, it will run fuel out the cap now. Also, on the '03 and newer models, this has the effect of leaving the fuel cap loose which sets the Check Engine light.



Another alternative would be to clean it out and put some hose on it and route the hose so it will not stop up, or it is easier to unstop.

 

[mwilson]

Ok guys, this is what I did for now. Had another fuel cap at work so I took it apart and did an autopsy. There is a tiny plastic check valve in the very bottom of the cap with two springs, one large on top and one tiny one on bottom. It is designed to hold pressure in the event of an overfill or a rollover but will also move the other way to relieve too much vacuum. I am quessing that the giant sucking noise is not as large a vacuum as it sounds because I could suck on the cap and make it open fairly easily. Hold your comments about my test methods, thank you. . Anyway with my five dollar set of Wal-mart o-ring picks I took the innards apart and removed the small spring. I modified my trucks cap today with out removing the upper cap and tether from the truck. Just take a 90 degree pick and work the outer cap away from the inner one. Pops right off. Plus I still have the safety of the pressure design of the cap because removing the little spring doesn't affect it. No vacuum in tank when I checked tonight so I think this might work for now. I will still change the rollover valve before winter, this will just buy me some time as my warm weather honey-do list is still quite long.