2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission fuel tank sending unit ruint: new fuel suspect?

[rivercat]

About to have to drop tank and change the sending unit and or float. I have heard from other discussions that the float may be made out of some soluble material and wonder if the new ulsf is to blame and if there is a solution or upgrade to consider. Also any tips on removing/replacing the tank components is appreciated. have been spraying the strap studs with blaster so as not to strip them during the job.

 

[DLane]

I do not think the new fuel has anything to do with this one... Every 2nd gen I have had has had sending unit/float problems... . (9 diferent pickups oldest a 94 newest 2001)

 

[Joe G.]

I've had a problem with the sending unit not working, but no problems with the sending unit float on my '95. The one in the tank now has been there for several years. I read on another forum that if you use the big rig nozzle to fill your tank it will damage the float. I buy most of my fuel at a card lock that only has the small nozzle.

 

[Mishkaya]

About to have to drop tank and change the sending unit and or float. I have heard from other discussions that the float may be made out of some soluble material and wonder if the new ulsf is to blame and if there is a solution or upgrade to consider. Also any tips on removing/replacing the tank components is appreciated. have been spraying the strap studs with blaster so as not to strip them during the job.

Depending on your setup, it may be easier to just lift the bed, many people prefer that method. I cannot with my setup however. I did have to replace the fuel sender on my '02 and it came with a float. I did not see any damage to the one removed however. I think the problem was more common on the older trucks. If you decide to drop the tank, removing the fuel lines can be a real PITA, I use a zip tie on the quick disconnects, as there really isn't enough room in there to fit your hands, even if you partially drop the tank before trying to remove the lines. Also if you have a wheel well liner (the '02s didn't come with them), remove the wheel well liner first as it will save you a lot of headache. Other than that it's a straightforward job.

mishkaya

 

[JMetzger]

Mishkaya, you said you used zip ties to remove the quick disconnects on the fuel tank. Are you refering to what I call tie wraps or something else, also was your quick disconnect the one where the plastic retainer stayed on the tank fitting or what & where did you install the zip tie. Thanks Jack

 

[Mishkaya]

Mishkaya, you said you used zip ties to remove the quick disconnects on the fuel tank. Are you refering to what I call tie wraps or something else, also was your quick disconnect the one where the plastic retainer stayed on the tank fitting or what & where did you install the zip tie. Thanks Jack

Here's a pic of a zip tie, so we are on the same page:

#ad


I put the tie where the two tabs are on the disconnect, that way it holds them down while I remove the other end of the line. There's just not enough space for me to have both hands in there at the same time. And yes, the retainer stays on the tank fitting if I recall correctly.

mishkaya

 

[JMetzger]

Thanks Mighkaya, we are on the same page, that is what I call a tie warp. After you put it on quick disconnect did you have any trouble getting it off. I assume you put the tie wrap on the outer edge of the plastic fitting. Jack

 

[Mishkaya]

Thanks Mighkaya, we are on the same page, that is what I call a tie warp. After you put it on quick disconnect did you have any trouble getting it off. I assume you put the tie wrap on the outer edge of the plastic fitting. Jack

I just used a blade to cut the tie once tank was removed. You put the tie right where the two tabs need to be pressed in. I looked for a picture as there are some how-to's floating around, but couldn't find any.

mishkaya

 

[rivercat]

I was afraid of having to pull the bed due to not enough slack in the lines to be able to get my fat hands on them and disconnect/reconnect. I guess I will spare all the cussing and just pull/jack the bed...

 

[Mishkaya]

I was afraid of having to pull the bed due to not enough slack in the lines to be able to get my fat hands on them and disconnect/reconnect. I guess I will spare all the cussing and just pull/jack the bed...

It's usually the easiest way to go if you have that option.

mishkaya

 

[JMetzger]

Mishkaya, after you got it collapsed or compressed the fitting did the fitting come off easy or did it fight you. I don't have the luxury to be able to remove my bed. I have a picture from my Dodge service manual & I see what you are talking about. Thanks.

Jack

 

[rivercat]

how hard is it to get the bed lined back up straight with the body?

 

[Mishkaya]

how hard is it to get the bed lined back up straight with the body?

I've never done it that way myself, so I have no first hand knowledge, but I was told it was no big deal at all.

mishkaya

 

[Mishkaya]

Mishkaya, after you got it collapsed or compressed the fitting did the fitting come off easy or did it fight you. I don't have the luxury to be able to remove my bed. I have a picture from my Dodge service manual & I see what you are talking about. Thanks.

Jack

It comes off relatively easy once you have the two tabs all the way down. If it fights you, it's either because of all the crud on the line(which can be a little hard to pull the first time if it has never been done before), or because you don't have the two tabs tightened enough (this has happened to me once). I would suggest loosening the tank straps almost all the way, as long as you have mostly drained your tank (which I highly recommend as it weighs a ton otherwise) so that you can lower the tank partially which will give you a little more room to fit your hands in. I am afraid I have dropped my tank more times than I care to mention over the years...

mishkaya

 

[Joe G.]

how hard is it to get the bed lined back up straight with the body?

Not too bad. You need a long punch or something like that to align the holes. Put a furniture pad or something like that on the front of the bed to avoid scratching up the paint on the back of the cab if the bed gets out of hand a little bit. I made a simple hoist from some cheap pulleys and some rope in my garage. I lift it by the tie down points with my comealong. It's pretty simple. Disconnect the wiring. Remove the three screws the hold the filler neck in place. Remove the ground strap from the front of the bed if it has one. Lift it and roll the truck forward so everything is easy to get at. I have some pictures of the hoist if someone is interested email me.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Try this to the old one(sending unit) or if you buy a new one.



Fuel sender repair

 

[rivercat]

thanks guys its sure been a help. I might take some pics and try and upload them when I do the repair. Curious to see how bad the intake sock is after all the various used oil I have dumped in the tank...

 

[GAmes]

I've wrestled those fittings a couple of times myself. After the last time I was told there is a special tool for the them. However, my FSM states that tool use is not required If there is a special tool maybe someone can supply a pic or a source.

 

[kscheffler]

My fuel gauge is also not working. What parts or part number do I need to order to replace on my 2001. 5 with OEM parts? Any estimate of parts cost? THanks

 

[Mishkaya]

My fuel gauge is also not working. What parts or part number do I need to order to replace on my 2001. 5 with OEM parts? Any estimate of parts cost? THanks

I don't have the part # handy, but someone else might. All you need is a replacement fuel sender. I believe I paid $70 all told for it last year at the dealer.

mishkaya