Full flow Power Steering Filter Install w/ pics

[seafish]

Several years ago, in the course of installing a bypass Coolant Filter mounted to the back of the bumper support frame and just in front of the passenger side wheel well liner (inspired by member AH64ID's similar install), I realized that with the different parts, the same sort of set up would also work as a full flow power steering fluid filter mounted on the drivers side, also between the wheel well liner and bumper frame.

Well, I got ‘er done awhile ago and am more then happy with the the way it turned out.

More importantly, I am FINALLY posting a write up the install that includes a list of parts needed, basic steps to complete, and also a few pics to help you guys more easily do the same if you so wish.

 

[seafish]

Here is a photo of the final filter assembly installed behind the bumper and in front of the wheel well liner on the drivers side!!!

NOTE : drivers side wheel well liner is removed for ease of install and clarity of this picture.

 

[seafish]

COMPLETE PARTS LIST:

(1) Donaldson P174767 Filter Head Mounting Bracket

(1) Donaldson P563278 Hydraulic Filter Head with 3/4” FIP inlet/outlet and 15psi bypass

(1) Donaldson P560693 Hydraulic Filter

(2) 3/4” MIP x 1/2” FIP brass bushings

(3) 1/2” MIP Brass “street” 90

(2) Full flow, brass ball valves. (1/2” MIP x 1/2” FIP)

(2) 1/2” MIP x 5/8” BARB brass fittings

(1) 5/8” x 2’ length of OIL rated hose (low pressure OK)

(2) 1” hose clamps ( I prefer lined hose clamps)

(2) 1/4” x 3/4” NCT bolts and lock washers

(2) 5/16” x 1.5” NCT bolts with (2) 5/16” nylock nuts

(18) EIGHTEEN 5/16” flat washers

High Temperature Pipe Thread Sealant (rated >250*F)

 

[seafish]

IMPORTANT NOTES--

NOTE: Most of the above fittings are 1/2” NPT, but note that they are all “full flow fittings”, being no less then 1/2” ID at any point. The oem power steering coolant return line hoses are in fact 5/8” ID, even though the power steering cooler itself uses LESS then 1/2” ID aluminum tubing. While I contemplated using only 3/4” NPT fittings to build this filter in order to reduce flow restriction, using the larger fittings would have made the assembly much less compact and harder to fit into the available space. Therefore I compromised by using the full flow version of 1/2” NPT fittings while still using the 3/4” filter head and also 5/8” ID cooler hoses. In short, the few fittings that I used for plumbing the filter head are a little smaller then the ID of any of the flexible return line hoses, but also substantially larger then the ID of the factory power steering cooler.


IMPORTANT NOTE: Be sure to use a high temperature thread sealing compound rated for oil and gas . I used Hercules Megaloc thread sealant which is rated for up to 400*F. This is as opposed to a regular thread sealant rated at 125*F.


ALSO NOTE: Anytime I drilled through or cut to bare metal I took the time to prime the metal with Rustoleum Flat Black Primer. I also recoated the entire Donaldson filter bracket with the same Primer as its paint job was slightly shoddy out of the box.

 

[seafish]

START by plumbing the filter head BEFORE it is installed on the back of the bumper--

Rather then listing each step that I installed the fittings in, It is simply easiest to see how I assembled the fittings with the pic below.

Of course I also used high temp thread sealant at each threaded joint.

NOTE that ALL of the parts shown in the pic below are also listed above.

 

[seafish]

IMPORTANT NOTE as shown in the picture above--

I removed both handles from the two ball valves as this allowed for a more compact installation.

I keep one of the valve handles in the glove box and also one in my toolbox, though you can also use any kind of pliers (or vise grips if you really need to) to open and close the ball valves when replacing the filter.

 

[seafish]

Before installation, the TOP of the Donaldson mounting bracket needs to be drilled with two holes in the correct place to accept the two mounting screws for the hydraulic filter head. The screws for the filter head are 1/4”-20 x 3/4” long, so I slightly oversized the holes in the bracket and then also painted the bare steel holes after drilling.

Furthermore, while NOT completely necessary, (and note that in the pics I did not do this as I did not see th potential benefit until AFTER installing the completely assembled filter assembly) now would be the time to cut back the two rearmost corners of the top plate of the Donaldson mounting bracket midway through the existing holes. Doing so allows for even easier access of the truck’s frame to body mounting bolt that is located almost directly above the filter bracket after installation

 

[seafish]

The bracket itself is attached to the bumper frame with the two 5/16” x 1.5” bolts. The bolt holes already exist in the Donaldson bracket and their corresponding placement are transferred over to the bumper frame mounting point first with a sharpie and then with a center punch. I again slightly oversized the holed that I drilled in the bumper frame to allow for some precision final alignment after the fact. I used a step bit to drill the holes in the bumper frame.

 

[seafish]

Attaching the finished assembly--

Note that (2) 5/16” flat washers washers will be placed under the head of the bolt before it goes through the bracket or frame. This ensures that the 1.5” long bolt is not TOO long to hit the back of the bumper before fully tightening the nylok nut. That being said, WHERE to mount the filter bracket on the frame (from left to right) is in fact a precision process if you want to be able to access the factory body mounting bolts above it.

See pic below--

As noted earlier, one could ALSO slightly cut back the right corner of the top of the Donaldson mounting bracket to allow for much better clearance and access to the body mounting bolts that is located almost directly above the filter bracket when installed according to these instructions.

 

[seafish]

Also note, you will need to use (7) of the 5/16" flat washers on each bolt to fill the gap between the back of the mounting bracket and the bumper frame channel where the bracket attaches to. While you might be able to skip this step, the C-channel and the bracket are almost exactly the same width, so using the washers allows for more precise alignment, as wells more secure mounting, of the bracket to the bumper frame.

Finally use the (2) 5/16” NCT Nylock nuts on the front of bumper frame to secure the (2) bolts to the trucks bumper framework. Note that when done correctly there is JUST enough room to get a nut onto the bolt, hold the nut with a wrench and then tighten the bolt(s) securely WITHOUT the length of the 1.5” bolt contacting the rear of the truck’s actual bumper.

 

[seafish]

saved for more pix

 

[seafish]

routing the hoses -- coming soon

 

[seafish]

saved for more pix

 

[seafish]

saved for pix and text

 

[seafish]

saved for pix and text

 

[seafish]

As I mentioned in the first post, I am completely happy with the results of this install.
I sense ZERO difference in the responsiveness of the power steering pump after the installation of this filter and I am confident that it will help the longevity of the power steering pump, as well as keep crud from building up in the power steering cooler. The filter head that I listed has an internal 15psi bypass valve, so if filter restriction ever reaches 15psi, flow is diverted straight through the ports, thus maintaining full flow of the power steering pump. I will simply change the filter every 15,000 miles along with my other additional fuel and coolant filters.

Thanks for reading and feel free to ask any questions!!!

 

[NIsaacs]

IMPORTANT NOTE as shown in the picture above--

I removed both handles from the two ball valves as this allowed for a more compact installation.

I keep one of the valve handles in the glove box and also one in my toolbox, though you can also use any kind of pliers (or vise grips if you really need to) to open and close the ball valves when replacing the filter.

Don't forget to turn the valves back on before start up

Interesting up-grade. The 3rd gen appears to be a completely different system than my 2nd gen, no cooler (does now) and two return lines. Does your hydro-boost have a return that tee's into the cooler/steering box return? It appears the 3rd gen only has one tank return? How do you drain the system for a fluid change?

I wonder why the return line is so large? I assume it is because of the large tube of the cooler. The bigger it is, the slower the fluid flows for more cooling effect and more air contact. I wonder what the pump flow is? The 2nd gen oem is 3.5 gpm and the high flow Borgeson is 4.5 gpm.

I did an oil cooler and filter (Magnafine 3/8") last summer and changed from regular power steering fluid to Redline synthetic power steering fluid (recommended by Michael) and am very happy. The Redline was a BIG upgrade on my system.

 

[Razorhunter]

Hey seafish great write up. I always love to see guys actually doing a proper and complete writeup like this. I am interested to know, how much did this parts list cost when all said and done?

 

[seafish]

Hey seafish great write up. I always love to see guys actually doing a proper and complete writeup like this. I am interested to know, how much did this parts list cost when all said and done?

Dont remembre now, but could not have been more then $150.