Full Load Fuel Screw

[DieselNasty]

I am going to be modifying my friends pump and hae wants power, so what is the most I can go in on this screw. I heard 2 full turns is good, but how much more can you go over that? Also I have heard of a runaway condition, Is this when the screw is adjusted and the Idle is to high at start up and the engine starts racing. Can I turn this screw in and as long as I keep the idle adjusted keep on going or is there a point where the idle cant be adjusted? What to do?



Thanks

Chris

 

[Diesel Nut]

I had a 93 that I cranked up. What I would do, is this.



Break off the lock collar and run it in 2 full turns.



Adjust your idle down where you want it. (hope it has a tach)



Next, adjust the AFC, I believe turning clockwise in small incriments. This will increase the amount of fueling at low boost, helping the truck build boost faster and ultimately fuel harder. This it the cover on the drivers side of the pump.



With this done you should be able to fine tune both the low end fueling and full fueling to your liking. It may take some time, and you may have to modify tools, mostly for the idle adjustment. If it runs away, pull the shutoff seleniod wire. It'll die.



If you still want more than that, 40 or 60 HP injectors ( they are easy) and a 16cm housing, again, easy. Hope the trans has been thought about in all this. Good luck. Also, for more adjustment guidance, look up member STOMP. He has a 700+ hp 92 (?) with the VE rotary pump.

 

[Paychk]

Check the stickies at the top of this forum, loads of info about the pump & tweaks

 

[bgilbert]

If it runs away, pull the shutoff seleniod wire. It'll die.

STOMP. He has a 700+ hp 92 (?) with the VE rotary pump.

:-laf :-laf :-laf :-laf A couple good ones :-laf . Sorry had to. Does your buddy have boost and pyro gauges? If no, then don't turn nothing up yet. Get them first, then start playing.

 

[Greenleaf]

There a several tricks to keeping the slow idle down to a managable level with the fuel screw in a good distance and a heavy gov spring.



-S

 

[Stomp]

:-laf :-laf :-laf :-laf A couple good ones :-laf . Sorry had to. Does your buddy have boost and pyro gauges? If no, then don't turn nothing up yet. Get them first, then start playing.

Well its not 700hp, but I am closer than most if not all. I can think of only one person that is higher than me. My latest number was 573hp on #2 only. I had some problems staying on the dyno so I couldn't get a number when I have everything turned on. I will be dynoing again on the 15th of October and should have some new numbers. I have seen 607hp with water/meth on two different dyno's.



Bill is right your friend will need gauges before turning the pump up.



Hey Bill I am closer to 700hp than you will ever be :-laf :-laf



Stomp

 

[DieselNasty]

Ok, new question. When you adjust the star wheel (for more low end fueling)do you want it screwed all the way down into the pump or farther upward? Also I tookout that plastic washer under the diaphragm. Anything to do that I am missing?



The truck does not have rpm gauge or egt/boost

 

[bgilbert]

Yes starwheel all the way down = more low end fuel before the air hits. From what I've read you definately want that plastic washer in there, not sure why, but it needs to be there.



Stomp, I wasn't trying to take anything away from you by no means. But just wait, I'm working on creeping closer to ya.

 

[Philip]

The truck does not have rpm gauge or egt/boost

Do not turn it up till he buys and installs a EGT gage. If you melt it for him. He might not be happy at all.

 

[Stomp]

Stomp, I wasn't trying to take anything away from you by no means. But just wait, I'm working on creeping closer to ya.

Yeah I saw the SP66-14 on order in your signature. That should be enough air to support the KTA Special. You will defiantly need a clutch to hold it though. That is always a problem as soon as you add one thing you need 2-3 more to make it work right.



DN

I think you want the washer because the cone will try to move to far down and it will cause the fuel pin to go back in some causing it to defuel a little or something like that. You can shave some off of the washer to get the max travel. There is also two different springs that can go on the star wheel that can help control the low end fueling. There was a rainbow colored one that was stiffer and a silver one that would cause it to fuel a little sooner, but if you move it all the way to the bottom I am sure that it will fuel real hard on the bottom. Mine is at the top and I use the rainbow colored spring to help it not fuel so hard on the bottom. I have plenty of smoke if I want it.



Stomp

 

[DieselNasty]

Thanks for all the info and answers

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Hey Jeremy,,, can you say what your pump is pushing for cc's or did you flow it ???



bob...

 

[Stomp]

Hey Jeremy,,, can you say what your pump is pushing for cc's or did you flow it ???



bob...

We did flow it, but we did it with the test injectors for a stock ve pump. I don't know how accurate the numbers are. Tell you what you tell me and I will tell you. You and your brother might be the only ones who have numbers for me to compare mine too. I will send you a pm.



Jeremy

 

[DieselNasty]

Ok, I adjusted the star wheel and smoke screw and now just getting around to the fuel screw. All I need to know is how to get the collar off the screw. Can I actually take the screw out of the pump?

 

[bgilbert]

Yep you can take out the fuel screw. Just make note of how many threads it sticks out. This way you can get it back to the same depth as before. You can grind off the lock collar. Just go slow and be careful to not damage the threads too bad.

 

[DieselNasty]

Thanks bgilbert



Chris

 

[Diesel Nut]

On mine I was able to remove it i place with a standard screwdriver and some patience. It took some work, but at the time I was unaware you could pull it. Just make sure you know how many turns you pull it out. Good luck.