Furnace pilot light not staying lit

[outlawram]

I have a lenox with the pilot that you have to hold red lever over to light the pilot and then you hold it over for 60 seconds before letting go and turning valve to on instead of pilot mode. When I do this the pilot light goes out and wont stay lit. For about a week it has been going out and I have been able to relight it but it wont stay lit now, any help would save me some money thanks in advance.

 

[TboneMan]

Bad thermocoupler? (sort of like a pyrometer for gas appliances).

 

[jkalchik]

TboneMan has it right. It's the little device that sit's in the pilot flame. It turns off the gas when it gets cold, or when it fails.

 

[outlawram]

Thanks, I picked one up and will replace it tonight, I will let you know how it turns out.

 

[outlawram]

it was the thermocouple. You guys are so smart. It sure will be nice sleeping with heat tonight. Thanks a bunch!

 

[Motorhead]

In IOWA, I bet you wouldn't want to go too long without the heater!!!

My forced air system did the same and before it went completely out, the heater would cycle on and off alot before the house got warm.

 

[jkalchik]

<snort> Iowa? That's still semi-tropical. Try Minnesota.



My folks in MI's northwestern Lower Peninsula built a new house a few years ago (old farmhouse was structurally unsound) with radiant infloor heat. Oh, man... ... . that is seriously the way to go in colder climates. It's incredibly efficient, very little temp swing, no drafts and no noise. 2 years ago, Dad discovered that the regulator from the exterior LP tank had frozen up, and the house had no heat for better than 12 hours and had only dropped to 65 degrees in January. By the time the regulator was replaced, they'd been down for about 18 hours and the house was still over 60. On the other hand, it was several hours before the house warmed back up to 70.

 

[daveshoe]

Second question

I have a water heater of the same design. I replaced the thermo by removing the entire burner assy and cleaning the supply orofices,ect. No improvement at all--she goes out as soon as you quit pressing the button. I think it is probably the gas valve. I replaced the heater--no time to mess with it when a tenant needs to use the shower.

I do not know how to test a heater valve. Any suggestions?

 

[Dieselnut59]

I have a water heater of the same design. I replaced the thermo by removing the entire burner assy and cleaning the supply orofices,ect. No improvement at all--she goes out as soon as you quit pressing the button. I think it is probably the gas valve. I replaced the heater--no time to mess with it when a tenant needs to use the shower.

I do not know how to test a heater valve. Any suggestions?

Yhe folks that replaced my dual fuel (heat pump/furnace) system could not get my water heater relit after cutting off the main gas valve (LPG) at the tank. I have a litle propane torch I use to get the thermocouple red hot. I never use the "hold for pilot" crap. I cut the thing to "on", hold the torch flame on the pilot/thermocouple area and it lights right up when the thermocouple tells it that it is ready. No danger of suddun "poofs" like with the other tricks. It has worked everytime for e with my water heater and my old Dearborn "stand by power failure" heater.

 

[daveshoe]

I did that and still no go. It makes me wonder if the thermostat in the control valve is the culprit. Being in the rental business,I will keep the heater where it is and keep a lookout on a heater that leaks or set out for the trash. I might score a control valve in this fashion.