Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 2005 quad cab short box 4x4 auto Cummins
Used to be that I could let my truck sit for weeks at a time, exceeding a month then climb in and fire up no problem.
One day, after it had sat for about 1 week, I found the batteries flat dead and I commenced with troubleshooting.
By disconnecting both batteries and charging them independently, I discovered that one of the batteries had gone bad- would not hold a charge overnight. I replaced both batteries, but that was not the solution.
By doing a parasitic current draw test, I discovered that the truck had a 1. 2 Amp current draw that remained long after everything was shut off. (Remained for at least 30 to 60 minutes. ) That parasitic draw was draining the batteries dead over the course of a few days. By removing the fuses one at a time and watching for the parasitic draw to disappear, I narrowed down to the source of the draw being the instrument cluster. (I think it was fuse #51, but don't quote me on that- it's whatever fuse is labeled inside the fuse cover as being for the instrument cluster. ) That circuit also feeds other things, such as the radio memory and the keyless entry receiver etc.
I replaced the instrument cluster, and the problem was fixed. I got the replacement instrument cluster new from Dodge dealer in Central New York. My cost was $602 before taxes (ouch!). The dealer required that I bring the old instrument cluster to them and swap over the counter- they would not do a core charge, and would not allow me to have both clusters in my posession at the same time.
Some notes for others who may encounter this or similar-
There are various different modules in these trucks (and other modern vehicles) that communicate with each other when the key is in the "on" position. When the key is turned off, the modules are supposed to go through a shut down sequence and "go to sleep" and stop drawing current. Defect with my instrument cluster is that it was no longer going to sleep when the key was turned off. If you encounter a parasitic draw problem, it's important to trace it down to determine which circuit is having the draw. Sometimes the specific amount of current that remains (in my case 1. 2Amps) can be a giveaway as to what the problem module is. While doing the draw test, you might very well see different amounts of current when the dome lights are on etc. Some of the units can take several minutes to "go to sleep". Now that my truck is fixed again, I'd say it goes to sleep within a couple minutes of shutting the key off and closing the door.
If you do end up replacing your instrument cluster, note also there is a seperate module located in the center rear of the instrument cluster itself. That seperate module is about the size of a box of tic-tacs, and it is the receiver for the keyless entry (if your truck is so-equipped). The new instrument cluster does not come with this module- you need to detach the keyless module from the old cluster and swap over to the new cluster.
As a side item- with its original instrument cluster, my truck had the annoying condition seen elsewhere on this forum, that the blue "high beams" indicator would flicker during regular driving when the high beams were not on. This was annoying (and potentially unsafe) as it would catch in my peripheral vision and cause me to divert my eyes from the road to the dash. The original cluster was part number with suffix "G". The new cluster is same P/N with suffix "H". Only driven the truck a few times since installing the new cluster, but so far, no flickering blue light either.
Thanks to other forum user Andres, who had the same issue and helped me to confirm my issue and questions. Honestly, I think $602 for the part was a bit stiff, especially since DC must know there is some issue here. You might find a used part online (auction etc. ) for much cheaper. I chose to go the dealer route for a known quantity, but I paid for it.
Used to be that I could let my truck sit for weeks at a time, exceeding a month then climb in and fire up no problem.
One day, after it had sat for about 1 week, I found the batteries flat dead and I commenced with troubleshooting.
By disconnecting both batteries and charging them independently, I discovered that one of the batteries had gone bad- would not hold a charge overnight. I replaced both batteries, but that was not the solution.
By doing a parasitic current draw test, I discovered that the truck had a 1. 2 Amp current draw that remained long after everything was shut off. (Remained for at least 30 to 60 minutes. ) That parasitic draw was draining the batteries dead over the course of a few days. By removing the fuses one at a time and watching for the parasitic draw to disappear, I narrowed down to the source of the draw being the instrument cluster. (I think it was fuse #51, but don't quote me on that- it's whatever fuse is labeled inside the fuse cover as being for the instrument cluster. ) That circuit also feeds other things, such as the radio memory and the keyless entry receiver etc.
I replaced the instrument cluster, and the problem was fixed. I got the replacement instrument cluster new from Dodge dealer in Central New York. My cost was $602 before taxes (ouch!). The dealer required that I bring the old instrument cluster to them and swap over the counter- they would not do a core charge, and would not allow me to have both clusters in my posession at the same time.
Some notes for others who may encounter this or similar-
There are various different modules in these trucks (and other modern vehicles) that communicate with each other when the key is in the "on" position. When the key is turned off, the modules are supposed to go through a shut down sequence and "go to sleep" and stop drawing current. Defect with my instrument cluster is that it was no longer going to sleep when the key was turned off. If you encounter a parasitic draw problem, it's important to trace it down to determine which circuit is having the draw. Sometimes the specific amount of current that remains (in my case 1. 2Amps) can be a giveaway as to what the problem module is. While doing the draw test, you might very well see different amounts of current when the dome lights are on etc. Some of the units can take several minutes to "go to sleep". Now that my truck is fixed again, I'd say it goes to sleep within a couple minutes of shutting the key off and closing the door.
If you do end up replacing your instrument cluster, note also there is a seperate module located in the center rear of the instrument cluster itself. That seperate module is about the size of a box of tic-tacs, and it is the receiver for the keyless entry (if your truck is so-equipped). The new instrument cluster does not come with this module- you need to detach the keyless module from the old cluster and swap over to the new cluster.
As a side item- with its original instrument cluster, my truck had the annoying condition seen elsewhere on this forum, that the blue "high beams" indicator would flicker during regular driving when the high beams were not on. This was annoying (and potentially unsafe) as it would catch in my peripheral vision and cause me to divert my eyes from the road to the dash. The original cluster was part number with suffix "G". The new cluster is same P/N with suffix "H". Only driven the truck a few times since installing the new cluster, but so far, no flickering blue light either.
Thanks to other forum user Andres, who had the same issue and helped me to confirm my issue and questions. Honestly, I think $602 for the part was a bit stiff, especially since DC must know there is some issue here. You might find a used part online (auction etc. ) for much cheaper. I chose to go the dealer route for a known quantity, but I paid for it.
