Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I had set my timing by the 1/8" method but since I have a timing gauge I decided to time it "properly" today. My timing pin is a PIA to locate. Either the hole is shallow or it has some crud in it. Anyway it is a pain to do. Here is a quick description of way the manual describes the procedure.
1. Locate TDC (compression stroke) using the timing pin
2. back pin out
3. Remove plug and copper washer from rear of pump
4. Install timing gauge
5. Use barring tool to rotate engine opposite normal rotation until gauge stops moving.
6. Zero dial
7. Turn engine normal direction back to TDC using timing pin
8. Back off pin
9. Take note of plunger travel
10. Rotate pump to obtain correct amount of plunger lift
11. Remove gauge
12. If removed, install injection lines
13. Bleed fuel system
Ok here is how it really goes:
1. Get wife to rotate engine with the alternator while you press as hard as you can on the damn timing pin (try to ignor the excruciating pain to your hand because it is too big to fit between the injection pump and steering pump)
2. Back off timing pin even though it did not really engage anyway but you know if you don't bad things will happen.
3. Make mark on crank and CPS so you don't have to go through that again.
4. Remove the throttle linkage to get to the rear of the pump (didn't see this in the manual?)
5. Remove the three bolts you can get to on the lower injection pump bracket since it blocks access to the fuel lines. Loosen the last bolt trapped between the vacuum pump and block. Pivot bracket out of the way. (no mention of this in the manual either)
6. Remove fuel line #1 since it completely obstructs the rear of the pump. Of course this means removing the three fuel line holders as well. Wiggle fuel line out of the way.
7. Cover the injection port on the pump to keep all the crap that comes off the rear plug out of your pump.
8. Now install the timing gauge and holder.
9. Go find the wife again and promise not to use all those colorful words whlie the children are around and have her rotate the engine in the oppisite of normal direction until the gauge stops moving. Zero dial on gauge.
10. At this point you need to rotate the engine in the normal direction back to TDC. DO NOT try and go around as the pump plunger lift will exceed the travel of the gauge and damage someting. (Phew! caught that one in time)
11. Go get that new barring tool you have never tried.
12. Put the new barring tool back in its box because the exhaust down pipe is blocking the access plug and you'll be damned if you going to remove anything else at this point.
13. Using a breaking bar in the tensioner, hold it as tight as you can against the belt and rotate the engine with the alternator in the normal drection back to TDC. (aren't you glad you made that mark on the crank & CPS now)
14. Take note of the plunger lift on the gauge. (Hmmmm only 1. 33mm, I guess the 1/8" method is not that accurate or my stock timing was off)
15. Lossen the Air Contrl Tube and the Pump Vent Line or it will be near impossible to rotate the pump. (no mention of this either)
16. Using your favorite bent timing wrench and a few more clorful words loosen the pump bolts and rotate the pump to the desired amount of lift.
17. Loosen fuel line #5 that is now bound up against the timing gauge holder so you can get it out.
18. Work backward from step #15 and put the whole mess back together making sure you don't put the fuel lines on before the rear plug otherwise it is a pain in the a$$ to get in there and tight (DOH!)
19. Spend 30 minutes looking through your manual to figure out which wires go the the fuel solenoid and the KSB because you can't even remember taking them off in the first place.
20. Bleed injection lines
21. Go test drive. Wasn't that fun!
Here is a picture of the gauge in place:
1. Locate TDC (compression stroke) using the timing pin
2. back pin out
3. Remove plug and copper washer from rear of pump
4. Install timing gauge
5. Use barring tool to rotate engine opposite normal rotation until gauge stops moving.
6. Zero dial
7. Turn engine normal direction back to TDC using timing pin
8. Back off pin
9. Take note of plunger travel
10. Rotate pump to obtain correct amount of plunger lift
11. Remove gauge
12. If removed, install injection lines
13. Bleed fuel system
Ok here is how it really goes:
1. Get wife to rotate engine with the alternator while you press as hard as you can on the damn timing pin (try to ignor the excruciating pain to your hand because it is too big to fit between the injection pump and steering pump)
2. Back off timing pin even though it did not really engage anyway but you know if you don't bad things will happen.
3. Make mark on crank and CPS so you don't have to go through that again.
4. Remove the throttle linkage to get to the rear of the pump (didn't see this in the manual?)
5. Remove the three bolts you can get to on the lower injection pump bracket since it blocks access to the fuel lines. Loosen the last bolt trapped between the vacuum pump and block. Pivot bracket out of the way. (no mention of this in the manual either)
6. Remove fuel line #1 since it completely obstructs the rear of the pump. Of course this means removing the three fuel line holders as well. Wiggle fuel line out of the way.
7. Cover the injection port on the pump to keep all the crap that comes off the rear plug out of your pump.
8. Now install the timing gauge and holder.
9. Go find the wife again and promise not to use all those colorful words whlie the children are around and have her rotate the engine in the oppisite of normal direction until the gauge stops moving. Zero dial on gauge.
10. At this point you need to rotate the engine in the normal direction back to TDC. DO NOT try and go around as the pump plunger lift will exceed the travel of the gauge and damage someting. (Phew! caught that one in time)
11. Go get that new barring tool you have never tried.
12. Put the new barring tool back in its box because the exhaust down pipe is blocking the access plug and you'll be damned if you going to remove anything else at this point.
13. Using a breaking bar in the tensioner, hold it as tight as you can against the belt and rotate the engine with the alternator in the normal drection back to TDC. (aren't you glad you made that mark on the crank & CPS now)
14. Take note of the plunger lift on the gauge. (Hmmmm only 1. 33mm, I guess the 1/8" method is not that accurate or my stock timing was off)
15. Lossen the Air Contrl Tube and the Pump Vent Line or it will be near impossible to rotate the pump. (no mention of this either)
16. Using your favorite bent timing wrench and a few more clorful words loosen the pump bolts and rotate the pump to the desired amount of lift.
17. Loosen fuel line #5 that is now bound up against the timing gauge holder so you can get it out.
18. Work backward from step #15 and put the whole mess back together making sure you don't put the fuel lines on before the rear plug otherwise it is a pain in the a$$ to get in there and tight (DOH!)
19. Spend 30 minutes looking through your manual to figure out which wires go the the fuel solenoid and the KSB because you can't even remember taking them off in the first place.
20. Bleed injection lines
21. Go test drive. Wasn't that fun!
Here is a picture of the gauge in place:
On my truck, i found it much easier to remove the assembly and free up the pin and lube it, works soooooooo much easier! I, also would like to know how much you had to go to get to 1. 5. Was it 3\16 or more like 1\4"? Thanks Tim
