Garage attic floor

[ROADWARRIOR]

What material would you guys recommend for a floor in a 56" tall attic? I plan on storing a lot of "stuff" up there but don't need anything fancy, just something that will hold up and hopefully not cost an arm and leg.



TIA,

Dan

 

[testraub]

What size joists? What spacing? 1/2" is in my attic on 2x8's at 16" and is a bit taller but stores most everything I need to put up there (nothing over 150#). Don't forget good lighting too.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

2x6's at 24"

 

[RHestand]

What material would you guys recommend for a floor in a 56" tall attic? I plan on storing a lot of "stuff" up there but don't need anything fancy, just something that will hold up and hopefully not cost an arm and leg.



TIA,

Dan

Depending on the need for future access ( electrical, etc. ) I like to use 1x12 Pine. With joist @ 24" O. C. you might need to use 3/4" metal clips to help control the deflection of the 1x12s between joist.

Also I would also use 1&5/8" wood screws instead of nails for fastening, they are cheap and are easy to R&R. For a storage deck I only use min. fasteners(let gravity work for you) because even with my best layed plans I usually end up needing a light fixture, elect. outlet, etc. sometime down the road, and need to take out a few boards.

You might also consider 3/4" plywood, but you might have to rip them into strips to get them up and installed in a confined space.

Good luck with your project.

Ray (Retired carpenter)

PS. Also, always be careful about weight. Depending on the free-span of your 2x6 joist, it could easily be overloaded.

 

[rweis]

I have used 2x4's spaced with 2x4's.



Deck screw a 2x4 (4" side down) then temporarily lay in a 2x4 standing verticle (the spacer) then another 2x4 screwed (4" side down) then move your spacer verticle 2x4 over alongside your new screwed in one, then screw another one down flat, then ..... Wait till studs go on sale at Home Depot to get the lumber. Cost $1 / stud, 3 studs wide (3 1/2, 1 1/2, 3 1/2, 1 1/2, 3 1/2) = 13 1/2" x 8' (basically 8 sq feet of storage) = $3 (about $. 40 / sq ft) + screws.



I have done this for about 4 different homes (16 " rafter centers) and have never had a moisture buildup problem, had pleanty of strength, can easily walk on the decking without my foot falling through, can get the lumber up through the scuttle hole easily, is a one man operation with a screw gun.



Like mentioned above, do not forget the lights. I use a drop light hooked to a hook in the rafters and drop the electrical cord down through the scuttle hole and plug it into an extension cord then into a house socket when I go up to get something.



If you also use an extension cord, then you plug it in, take the end with you, plug in the drop light when you get up the hole, get what you want, start back down the hole, unplug, put the drop light end where you know where it is next time, cover the scuttle.



Bob Weis

 

[catoiler]

3/4" Plywood on mine and works gerat! 2x6 24 on center.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Is there anything wrong with 3/4" osb?

 

[catoiler]

Is there anything wrong with 3/4" osb?

It will work fine! cheaper than plywood also.

 

[WMonroe]

I would go with 3/4" osb or plywood and get tongue and groove.

Will

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I had both the framer and the lumber yard owner tell me that 5/8" OSB would be more than enough for the attic floor unless I was planning on putting an engine up there. What's the general consensus on this?



TIA,

Dan

 

[DLane]

I had both the framer and the lumber yard owner tell me that 5/8" OSB would be more than enough for the attic floor unless I was planning on putting an engine up there. What's the general consensus on this?



TIA,

Dan

As a framer I would tell you 1/2 inch for 16" centers 3/4 for 24" centers. 5/8 will "get it done" for 90% of anything your ever going to put in a 56" attic, It is the other 10% you need to build for. 5/8 will work, but if it was mine I would spend the extra 1. 00 a sheet and put down 3/4.

In this case OSB and Ply= same thing

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking 3/4" myself but wondered if the weight savings would be beneficial with the 5/8".



When you say OSB and Plywood being equal, do you mean equally good for the attic floor project or equal to your above feeling if it were mine I wouldn't be cheap?



Thanks,

Dan

 

[RHestand]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking 3/4" myself but wondered if the weight savings would be beneficial with the 5/8".



When you say OSB and Plywood being equal, do you mean equally good for the attic floor project or equal to your above feeling if it were mine I wouldn't be cheap?



Thanks,

Dan

I agree with DLane. OSB is good, a little more wt. than plywood, but very durable and a little less $.

RE: T&G decking. IMO it can be hard to put together and hard to take apart in 4x8 sheets.

Good luck,

Ray

 

[Grizzly]

I have a second floor in my barn, which I built with 2 x 10 douglas fir, 16 OC and 3/4" OSB T&G. The OSB is glued and screwed to the 2 x 10's. No squeaks.

 

[DLane]

When you say OSB and Plywood being equal, do you mean equally good for the attic floor project or equal to your above feeling if it were mine I wouldn't be cheap?



Thanks,

Dan

In this case OSB or Ply will acomplish the same thing. OSB should cost slightly less at a very small penalty in extra weight. The extra weight is very very little per sheet and as long as OSB is not exposed to the elements(ie exterior soffits, porches, the bottom side does count) it is just as Ply. And if it was mine I would use 3/4 OSB and not feel one bit "cheap"

 

[Grizzly]

In this case OSB or Ply will acomplish the same thing. OSB should cost slightly less at a very small penalty in extra weight. The extra weight is very very little per sheet and as long as OSB is not exposed to the elements(ie exterior soffits, porches, the bottom side does count) it is just as Ply. And if it was mine I would use 3/4 OSB and not feel one bit "cheap"

OSB is stronger then plywood and can withstand the exterior elements better then exterior plywood. This statement is based on my own experience with the use of both products for many years.

 

[DLane]

OSB is stronger then plywood and can withstand the exterior elements better then exterior plywood. This statement is based on my own experience with the use of both products for many years.

It is "stronger" in the fact that OSB has no limitations of wood grain. With all edges blocked it is just as strong on a wall vertical as horizontal. Plywood is not. I prefer to use OSB because it is more stable, if it does for some reason gets damp(or wet) it does not try turn into a pretzel. But per current IRC code(now standard thru out US) all exposed areas(ie exterior soffits, entrys, patios, ect. ) must be Plywood. FWIW

 

[robertyoke]

unless you are using the space all the time with heavy objects or traffic, i would just use 15/32 osb if your looking for the cheapest way to go at about $11 per sheet. it has a span rating of 16-32 vs 7/16 osb with a span rating of 16-24. the osb will flex when placed on 24 inch centers joists but its not like it will fail and you will fall through. otherwise i would just go with 23/32 t&g osb it only costs about $15 a sheet around here at the home cheapo.

-robert

 

[Grizzly]

unless you are using the space all the time with heavy objects or traffic, i would just use 15/32 osb if your looking for the cheapest way to go at about $11 per sheet. it has a span rating of 16-32 vs 7/16 osb with a span rating of 16-24. the osb will flex when placed on 24 inch centers joists but its not like it will fail and you will fall through. otherwise i would just go with 23/32 t&g osb it only costs about $15 a sheet around here at the home cheapo.

-robert

If you use 7/16" OSB at 24" OC, be sure to use FHA approved "H" clips between joists.

 

[jwgary]

I use 3/4" plywood ripped in half the long way to get it through the attic door. I want something that is strong enough to hold all the stuff and me walking around up there without feeling that bouncing feeling with every step. Screws are the way to go so you can pull up a board to do electrical work underneath.