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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Gas guage dosent work...

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1997 Thermostat Fluctuations

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My Gas Guage doesen't work on my 96 Ram CTD, it always reads empty no matter if the tank is full or not (the nedle nevers moves, always stays on empty). And when you start it, after about 20 seconds or so the low fuel light comes on, and stays on untill the truck is shut off. I heard this is common on the trucks..... Is there an easy fix, or is it definately the sending unit? I talked to a gut that has 78, 000 miles and replaced 3 sending units! Is there a better sending unit or upgrade you can buy? Is it easy to do yourself? :confused:
 
Sorry about the link :( . I did not click on it to see if it worked,duhhh.

The one you posted is the same one!! Nice going!!
 
Yes, that is the sending unit. I had three replaced. The first lasted about 30K, the second about 2K, and the most recent 45K.



If the shop replaces only the sending unit, you will have another quick failure. One honest dealer finally told me the entire assembly must be replaced or it will just fail again.



Good luck.
 
BLACKRAM, so are you saying that rather than replace just the $40 electrical part of the tank module you must replace the entire $300 module that holds the electrical part in order to have a lasting repair?



I've replaced the $40 part many times on several rigs with good results. Never replaced the entire module but have had dealers try to tell me that the $40 part wasn't available separately and I had to buy the entire thing.

I went elsewhere.
 
It's really an easy fix... a little time consuming, but rather painless, and you dont get dirty! if you need help, PM me, or someone else who knows about this.



-Chris-
 
Originally posted by BLACKRAM

Yes, that is the sending unit. I had three replaced. The first lasted about 30K, the second about 2K, and the most recent 45K.



If the shop replaces only the sending unit, you will have another quick failure. One honest dealer finally told me the entire assembly must be replaced or it will just fail again.



Good luck.





Well the dealer can say all he wants, but the sender is the only thing controling the gauge electronically. I've had this problem and fixed it myself so I'm familiar with the assembly. Nothing mechanical is failing in this assembly, it's the electronics... So to shell over 3-400 dollars for the entire assembly would sure make someone happy, because they just ripped you off...



The honest dealer telling you this isn't so honest because he is lying.



Chris
 
You can drop the tank or lift the bed. I've found it easier to lift the bed especially if the gauge doesn't work and you don't know how much fuel is in the tank. Remove the fill and vent hose, remove the three bolts that hold the drivers side bed down, loosen the three on the other side, jack up the drivers side, 16 inches is plenty. Wedge a board in-between the bed and frame to keep it from falling on you.

I've found the hardest part of the repair is disconnecting the darn electrical connector but it's lots easier with the bed up so you can see what you're doing rather than going by feel.

Most dealers lift the bed.
 
I dropped the tank, but only because I took a big chance and drove the truck for what I thought would almost empty it... but as illflem said, I'd agree it would have been easier lifting the bed, to disconnect the hoses and electrical connections without trying to balance the tank on the jack and reaching over the tank while hardly having room to see... that was a pain... Still a relatively easy job though either way.



If you do elect to drop the tank, there is only a crossmember on the 4x4 models to remove with 4 bolts, and then two strap bolts, and she's comin down!!!



Just take your time disconnecting the hoses and elect connections.



Chris
 
Thanks everyone, I think I'll try lifting the bed when I do it... ... Is it heavy? Can I use a jack(s) to lift it, or 2x4 as a "lever"? Or do I need a couple of stong guys? I only ask because I had a Hernia opp. last year, and I'm being carefull as I don't want to go thru that again! (that hurt!) Where can I get the sending unit electrical part that I need (not the whole sending unit), besides Dodge (too much $$$$$), what it specifically called?:rolleyes:
 
You need the sending unit 'rebuild kit'. It's 40 bucks, and comes with a new reastat basically. You get it from the Dealer.



You might try not opening the new part, and after you get the old one out, take some electrical cleaner to the contacts, or just some kind of cleaning solution like thinner or what have you... . and you might find that it works again. I tested mine with a multi meter and found that after I cleaned it up, it appeared to work again... . didn't look into it very far though and just pitched it... .



As for the bed, I haven't tackled that one yet...
 
I use a floor jack with a block of wood on top right in front of the rear wheels.

Make sure to jack on a metal portion of the bed.

I imagine the jack that comes with the truck could be used but may have to be blocked up a couple times to get enough lift.

Some people use a come-a-long over a beam or stout tree branch to lift the bed from the middle stake pocket. I've done it this way with a chain and forklift also.

The bed isn't as heavy as it looks, four guys can pick the whole thing up.
 
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