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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Gauge gurus.....Help!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) more dead pedal

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I have had a long and aggravating string of problems with my FP gauge. My first set up was a Westec (spl?) electric. I couldn't put sending units on fast enough, Blew up 4 in less than 18 months. Then I went to a D-Pricol mech. set up with isolator. 3 isolators later I ran my pressure line straight to the gauge. I now have a very load and bothersome harmonic buzz. I am now considering moving the FP gauge to the hood in a cup mount. Has anyone built a snubber/isolator that works and will stay together or is the hood mount going to be the best solution? Any ideas? Thanks



Jonny
 
I use a needle valve barely opened that I got from Grainger as a cheap snubber. It reduces the pulsation and still gives quick responding readings at the gauge.



-Deon
 
I have autometer gauges and the autometer isolator. I'm running a stock LP, so no more than 11-12psi. Tell me a little more about what is crapping out on the isolator. The only thing could be the rubber gasket that goes through the middle to isolate the fuel from the antifreeze. If that's blowing out, I would think that there are other problems. My set-up comes off the top of the fuel filter canister up to the isolator and then from the isolator to the gauge. Just make sure there is antifreeze on the gauge side of the isolator. since both sides are sealed up, there shouldn't be any way it can blow out... Let me know!
 
Jonny; I had access to some 1/8" stainless tubing which I ran from a brass needle valve (almost shut off) directly to a mechanical gauge on the bottom of the dash. Had a loud clicking buzzing noise from the mechanical lift pump on my '97. Rigged a piece of fuel hose with 1/8 pipe ends and cut into the ss tubing under the hood. Stopped the noise. Also threaded a piece of 3/8" fuel hose over the tubing through the firewall hole up over the compression nut at the back of the gauge and clamped it there. Just in case. Left the engine compartment end open.



The needle valve stops the gauge from fluttering and will allow you to shut off fuel to the gauge if you do spring a leak.



I've only got about 11,000 miles on my gauge, but don't expect any problems. It is simple and it works.



Good luck, Tom
 
what size of hose are you using? i have D pricol fuel pressure guage with pressure line straight to it and i don't have any noise the FASS is pushing 17 psi at an idle i have 1/8 rubber tubing with a shutoff valve
 
When i was running the Westec gauge I had one of the drilled banjo bolts with a grease gun hose from there to the sender. With the mechanical set up now I have a tee between the FF and the VP. Grease gun hose from the tee to fender mounted isolator. Clear small poly tube containing anti-freeze from isolator to in cab gauge. Yes it was the diaphram that keeps blowing out and this is not available as a replacement part. Then I ran the hose off the tee to a 1. 25 inch close nipple capped and drilled for 1/8 pipe fittings, poly tube out the backside to the gauge. thought the volume might help.

Nope. My present set up just eliminates the isolator. I have no facts to back this up but I thought my noise was coming from the VP because sometimes it comes and goes and seems more related to throttle position than fuel pressure. Thanks for all the responses. I would really like to keep this in the cab and will try the needle valve, where would be a source for this? Don't know that it matters but this has gone on since new and I now have 200,000 plus on the clock. Thanks.



Jonny
 
I had the same problem: eng & trans noise transmitted to cab.

I had straight shielded metal line ( autometer ) direct to the gage ,no good.

Replaced with fuel hose from banjo fitting to firewall, at the firewall I changed to 1/8 copper line to the gage.

Drilled a 1/16 hole in a cut off bolt shoulder and forced it into the fuel hose end
that goes on the banjo fitting, Noise gone.

I believe the fuel hose is what stopped the noise...
 
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