Gauge illum. problem.

[tmacc]

Well, I installed gauges today. Westach boost/egt combo and trans temp. w/ fuel pressure on order. I've got the boost hooked up and working (20 PSI). I'm waiting for the turbo to cool down before I drill and tap for thermocoupler. I don't anticipate any problems there since I tapped the intake duct for an 1/8"npt nipple and all went well.
Here's my problem. Neither of the gauge illum. bulbs are working. I tapped off of the tan wire behind the head light switch and I've got power to the bulb as well as a pigtail for the fuel pressure gauge lighting. I ran a ground wire from the battery ground on the driver's side fender to the metal cross bar under the steering wheel and ran all grounds directly to that. I've run a continuity test from bulb pigtail ground to metal cross bar and I get 0 ohms.
I find it hard to believe that both bulbs are bad.
Any ideas on what to check next would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Tom

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'01 2500 4x4 4. 10 White/Driftwood QC plain SLT auto trans snow prep camper package tow package bed liner mopar mud flaps Reading Ind. 33" tall contractors cap. Toys: 3 mountain bikes, a cyclo-cross bike, and a road bike, plus a couple of whitewater kayaks. Yeah, I know their human powered, but the bikes are fun to modify too. Like spending $$$ to make trucks more powerful, It takes $$ to make bikes lighter. Titanium isn't cheap.

 

[Bigsaint]

I had a similar problem with my DiPro oil temp gauge, kept blowing fuses and no illumination. Pulled the bulb to find that one of the bulbs small wires were bent and not making a connect. Just an idea.

Scott W.

 

[Timinator]

Have you tried connecting to the gauge's power source? The lights will be on all the time, but you'll know that they work.

 

[n_fairchild]

when i installed my guages i just grounded them under the dash and tapped into the fuse that the dash lights use. this allows them to dim with the dimmer switch. i didnt have a fuse pin to do it right so for the time being i just put the wire in behind the fuse. not exactly the right way to do it but it worked.
Nick

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95 3/4 ton, 4x4, Auto, 235 plate, K&N, straight through exhaust, wastgate mods, more to come, 108,000mi and still going strong

 

[tmacc]

Thanks guys, but I have power to them and when I put a ohm meter from the ground wire where the bulb pigtails are connected and the grounded metal cross bar, everything checks out. 0 ohms, which is what you want.
Like Scott suggested, I'll have to find a magnifying glass and check the bulbs themselves.
Tom

 

[arlan]

Why don't you just remove one or both from the gauge and connect it straight to a DC power source. If it doesn't burn, it's bad. I just did that with my spare bulb to a 9 volt and it lights right up. I realize you may have then all wired in but it's a suggestion. All I did to hook mine up was use the + and - wires that are hooked up on the gauge. I just held the wire to the post and sliped the clear plastic sleeve over it. Quick and dirty and works just fine. It also makes it easy to replace if and when it burns out.

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98. 5 ISB QC 3500 4X4 3. 54, PowerMax1, DTT TC & VB, TY303 225/70/19. 5's on Rickson Wheels, 275 Injectors, Mag-Hytec Transmission Pan/Differential Cover, 9000 LB Warn Winch, Ultra Board Running Boards, Westach Combo Boost/EGT Transmission Temperature & Fuel Pressure gauges, Pac Brake, 2-lo kit, CB, GPS, Rancho 9000's, ATS exhaust manifold, JRE 4" exhaust with muffler and resonator. Lifetime NRA Member

[This message has been edited by arlan (edited 04-14-2001). ]

 

[DieselDoghouse]

I was mystified too, so I went back to the 'Michigan Bible' mine is a '98 but I don't think this circuit is that different. You said you picked up power from the tan wire…UH OH. Tom, I just discovered the sneaky buggers used 2 TAN wires to that switch!!!! Here goes: Cavity [ U ] is circuit G75 22TN, a pin straight with the plug face but down by itself. This is the door ajar sense lead and would NOT do the job.
Cavity [ I ] is circuit E1 18TN on a single pin SLANTED out alone from the opposite plug face (sorry, no better way do describe) THIS is panel lamps dimmer switch signal that you want, a rheostat-varied 12V to ground running all the panel lamps. I'm guessing hopefully you got the wrong Tan (think I did that too) and you measured 12V unterminated because maybe you were reading through the dome light? that circuit is load-hot and switched through grounding door switches or ground terminal on theheadlamp switch. I said hopefully 'cause as PITA as it is it would be an easy answer. Hope some of this helps! Check that your tan wire is not only hot but varies from 12V to something like 2v with the knob.

 

[illflem]

Tom, since it seems like you know what you're doing I'm thinking that your problem may be one of the simple things that sneak past all of us at times. Make sure light switch is pulled out and dimmer is turned up.

 

[tmacc]

"Tom, you sound like you know what your doing" Well Bill, If that statement wasn't the kiss of death, I don't know what is. Time to fess up guys. With three gauges, a light feed and stuff going thru the firewall, I lost track of the ground wire for the lights. I did check it with the ohm meter twice, and got 0 ohms. Don't know what happen there, but when I checked it this morning, I had a open wire. So, I looked under the dash and there it was hang out in space. Got it hooked up and every thing is working find.

I didn't realize that the EGT gauge is so responsive. It responds pretty quick to the thottle. I can get 1000 degree on a stock engine pretty easily and it runs about 6-700 on level road at 65 mph. Must be that wonderful HY35 turbo DC put on the automatics.
Thanks for all the input.
Tom

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Way cool you got it nailed! Obviously the gremlins got into the toolbox overnight and found the wire cutters!!!

 

[Bigsaint]

Tom, glad you got it solved. Been there and done that !!!

Scott W.

 

[DieselB59]

I have chased enough gremlins under hoods and dashboards to be the professor of "BACK TO BASICS 101". I stress this anytime we have a similar problem like the above. Remember, we're all human!

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Chris Timochko
*Association of Diesel Specialists Certified*
AUTO WURKS DIESEL R&D TEAM
1997 5sp 4X4, Rhino Linings, Espar Heater, A. W. D. HX40 turbo, ATS 3pc Manifold, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, A. W. D. Custom Tuned Injection Pump, A. W. D. Intercooler, A. W. D. 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, A. W. D. Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, A. W. D. 6" Chrome Exhaust System, BD No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. 15. 50@97mph on Goodyear All-Terrain tires.
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Project U96 - 1996 3500 2WD racer. A. W. D. Marine Ultra Low Compression, A. W. D. Teflon-coated Pistons, A. W. D. High Lift Camshaft, Ported and Honed Cylinder Head, Intake and Exhaust manifold; A. W. D. HX40 Turbocharger, ATS 3pc Exhaust Manifold, A. W. D. Water Injection, A. W. D. Custom Fabricated Fuel System, Race Spec A. W. D. /BD P7100 Injection Pump, A. W. D. Custom High Flow Fuel Injection Nozzles, BD Auto transmission and Custom TC, Weld Draglites, Goodyear Eagle Drag Slicks, 5" Single Stack Through The Bed, Mag-Hytec on Rear and Transmission. 11. 54@115mph