2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Gauge install Mission complete....almost

[DieselMinded]

well about 3 hrs living room preperation christmas night and today I started @ 10am and finished @ 3pm every thing went SO SO I have a pyro,boost,Fp gauge now ... ...



the boost gauge on the steering collum is a pain I had to drill a small hole out the back of the pod for the boost line ..... the boost line will not fit in a stearing collum mount with out kinking ... . as a matter of fact the gauge wont even fit all the way in the hole even with out the clamp ... ... ..... the gauge is gold on the side so some injunity was done so it didnt look retarded turned out ok till I turn the wheel and it was hitting the gauge more proding and pushing and its fine now its a 60 Psi gauge and @ 5x5 Im getting about 45 PSI satisfied level 3/5



the Fp gauge ... mounted on top hole of a dual piller... the isolator didnt come with required parts to hook to the genos hose or any type of motor conneting device so I had to run down town to get parts . after install Im getting 10 PSI @ idle and 2 @ WOT on 5x5 I DONT LIKE THAT AT ALL... . I never lost any antifrezze during install BUT on the way to work I seen a drip from the bottom of the piller ..... guess what ... ... . ANTIFREZZE DANG GONEIT that sucks pretty bad ... . I pulled the piller off @ work and the Fp line seems to be pluged in all the way into the pressure fitting on the gauge but its leaking from somewhere its 9* out dont feal like messing with it THeres alot of air in the line also I can see more MT area in the line inside the piller than Antifrezze... . solution Dont know I can sepeate the pod from the piller and it probly will never go back on right with the chency clips . . then what ???? the line pushed in and snaped and woulDnt pull out ... Ill have to go to EEP and get another pressure fitting thats made for the hose and replace it and try to put antifrzze back in the line with a eye droper I guess Till then Ill just have antifrezze dripping out IM NOT REMOVING THE GENOS HOSE its very feniky and will strip out very eazy the fittings are almost hardlined @ the isolator so IM screwed no way to fix till I get the parts and tare up my piller getting to it ... down to 8PSI @ idle now Im sure itll keep droping till I git it fixed . . I only have 1 day off till next year so times a pressin... satisfied level 0/5



Pyro worked perfect about 1200 WOT 5x5 so far... ... ... . great in every way What i thought would be the hardest turned out the best ... . satisfied level 5/5





The gauge hook up kit was a waste I ened up hacking it to pieces and I only needed 2 wires from the kit ... I made a use for the rest ... . could of done with out.



I think The hole in the piller may be low and putting pressure on the fuel line going into the gauge tomarrow before work If I get motivated Ill tare it apart I guess and make sure its in the gauge all the way I know the lines going threw the piller in to the gauge ... . just not sure about connection Ill have to pull those clips out and see. . Ill keep you all posted any advice????do my numbers seem normal to you??



thanks

DM

 

[DieselMinded]

well I got the Fp gauge fixed



out side 20* with antifezze all over me and I was frzzing to death my fingers would'nt even start to turn a loss bolt... ..... MAN I NEED A HEATED GARAGE



The snap conector suppled with the isolator pooped out on me. sprayed the hole line and isolators worth of antifreeze down the inside of the piller and on to the fuse box ,,,,NICE



I never realized how nasty and sticky anti frezze is



However it dont really taste that bad ... .....



wihile priming the spare Fp line with antifrezze inside the cab with a McyD's cup on the floor board I managed to get a little air at the end of the line so instead of filling with anti frezze to the pont where it'd come out by the isolator I had the brillant idea of sucking on the line ..... well lets just say alittle sifoning goes along way it squrted all over me then I held it up and it stoped but filled with air again. . . I had to refill the line again and be sure to keep the end up in the air while refilling the medicene dropper and holding the piller and pod that the line is ran threw with my sholder and turn signal flashing driveing me nuts from where I bumped it ... did I say it was 20* out and I had to leave for work in 10 mins ... It stunk big time but Sucess was had I ditched the snap connetor suppied and went with a compression fitting works great... 10 PSI @ idle 2 WOT 5x5



I got every thing all back together and the pyro quit working... ... . OMG I cant beleave it

took it back apart exspecting the worst But one of the 4 wires on the little connetor on back of the gauge was slitely pulled out I shoved it in and BINGO we have PYRO.



All Is well



DM



Mental Note - If ever on the verge frezzing to death jumping into a pool of antifrezze will not keep you from frezziing to your death itll probly speed up the effect !

 

[Timbeaux38]

New LP

2psi @ WOT is Low man, real low..... need to change the lp before you cook the VP-

 

[Black-Smoker]

Where did you mount your pyro probe pre or post turbo? a max of 1200 sounds low if it s pre turbo. Glad you got your fp gauge fixed. I put mine in about a week and a half ago and love it. My lift pump was reading the same pressure as yours is so I chainged it out and it seems to be better now. I found the best price on my lift pump at Freightliner for 130. 00 good luck replacing it it was a real PITA for me.

 

[SnoKing]

Di Pricol says a little air the line is OK. SNOKING

 

[DieselMinded]

Im pretty sure Ill save some money up and get a pusher pump set up till then Ill run 3X3 it seems to keep up pretty good there only @ 5x5 WOT and Smoke rolling will it go to 2 Psi Fp.



Imposible to get every little bit of air out but it reads good



1200 is just what ive noted it may of been higher and I was just watching my Fp gauge drop off plus for the Pyro to reach high temp its a longer load I cant get a long up hill span for constant drag on her I will some time



thats 1200* on level ground



PRE TURBO drilled top of manafold between motor and turbo



I didnt know the Lps were only 130. 00 how much Fp should I get with a healthy Lp @ IDLE AND @ WOT 5X5



BANJO's Add that much Fp ???even worth the effort??



DM

 

[Kennywould]

MAN I NEED A HEATED GARAGE

I don't know how far from the Pa border you are, but my garage is heated, welcome anytime!



-Ken

 

[DieselMinded]

Thanks Ken



Man this place is great



DM

 

[DieselMinded]

I was told as long as you have 1 Psi Fp the injector pump is fine its when the Fp goes into negative numbers and the injector pump is sucking its own fuel that the injector pump is struggling. as long As its reading on the gauge Tapped at schrader valve the Lift pump should last till I get a Pusher.



38,000 miles on her



May get banjos first ?? there pretty cheap if they will increase Fp a noticeable amount .

DM

 

[Rman]

Well positive pressure is OK, not good, but it's OK. That means there's a tiny bit excess fuel flowing. The really bad thing is cavitation which can result when the VP starts sucking, gasping if you will, for fuel. The positive pressure, like above 10 psi is what you want because that excess fuel helps cool the internal parts of the VP.

 

[Timbeaux38]

I'm wth Rman- at 2psi you have to be cavitating the pump- $130 is a small price to pay vs. replacing the vp. If it were me, I'd have the box cut off and have a real light foot- too many WOT Runs could spell disaster... ... ... . Do some research on fuel pressure, I think you'll find that anything below 8 psi at wot is not reccomended- take it from a guy who has replaced the VP before... . better to be safe than sorry. Also , you dont want to add a pusher if your lp is bad- replace the lp, then get a pusher... ... .

 

[DieselMinded]

the pushers I see do away with the lift pump



I know fass has released a pump only model And Im pretty sure you still remove the Lp Does any one have a good set up using a pusher pump along with the Lp My gauge was meesed up ... ... ... NOW it'll stay about 8 all the time on 3x3



Only on 5x5 @ launch will it get dangerously low. I wonder if banjos would keep me out of red ?



Id really like about 15 @ idle and to stay close to 10 WOT 5x5 @ launch..... is it RASP time or is that overboard.



Im getting 45#'s boost ... ... ... . that seams like alot to me



Whats the turbo housing rated at???



If I remove my TB Will I smoke more ????... . I think I can keep an eye on the pyro the BHAF keeps it pretty cool





Thanks guys

DM

 

[CEpp]

tb?

dont run it hard until u can get theat lift pump replaced. 1x5 is ok. . your putting added stress on not only the lift pump, but the vp44 as well.



the service manual says, below 8 psi, needs replaced. u make the decision, beating on it and short living your vp44 @ $1200. 00 to replace or take it easy and replace the lift pump $120. 00 and install the oversized banjo $40. 00? at the same time. i like the ladder of the two.



the other thing, if u keep doing it, launches on any setting but stock is bad on the transmission untill u get it upgraded. get in the habit of rolling on the throttle after the 1-2 shift and stay out of the hammer if it shifts into od between 45-55 mph. this will develop a convertor shutter if u dont already have it.



so at the current pace, a aftermarket trans upgrade $1500. 00-4500. 00 and a $1200 vp44 is in the near future. happy spending

 

[Timbeaux38]

I guess I thought when you said "Pusher" pump that you meant another pump(Holley, carter) in-line with your LP now- It appears as if you want another system totally(FASS, RASP) Keep in mind the Fass W/oi filters has no fuel reater and the RASP will run you about a grand with all of the plumbing- spend the $130 now for a new LP until you decide what you want as far as a new system-



How has your transmission held up for this long? must be special to take the 5x5 launches... ... ... .

 

[CEpp]

sorry, not to start a battle, fass has fuel heater included... . look...

http://www.piersdiesel.com/FASS.htm

 

[Rman]

sorry, not to start a battle, fass has fuel heater included... . look...

http://www.piersdiesel.com/FASS.htm

I think the FASS option of plumbing your coolant back to it is what's referred too in the ad. This is a pain that a lot of people don't want which is why the concern over using the stock fuel system.

 

[Moose Truck]

CEpp, The Fass Pump only, the one without filters, has no heater.



http://www.dieselpp.com/



Click on "New Pump" upper right corner.



Moose00

 

[DieselMinded]

pic

Heres my gauges about 10 hrs invested not counting probly 40 hrs TDRin'



Thanks for all the info guys and for any one looking for install preperation info go to the LINK just temporary and still being edited .



thank TDR , Rock-N-Rammer , Me



heres the pic

 

[ctopp]

I've had to replace the OEM lift pump twice so I'm getting pretty good at it. Takes me about 30 minutes total. The service manual says to remove starter but it is not necessary. I register 12. 5 psi with a new lift pump at idle. Recommend you spend the $130 and that way give you some time to figure what you want to do. Good Luck.

ctopp