2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Gauge install Q's

[BroncoMarc]

I'm attempting to install a set of Autometer gauges I just got from Genos. I'm playing with boost gauge first. They supplied an adapter like the Piers fitting that replaces the manifold bolt. When I tried to hook up the tubing to it, I could only turn the autometer fitting about 1 turn into the fitting Genos supplied by hand. With a couple wrenches I got another turn out of it. It seemed like they were different thread pitches, but they sure look the same. Should I keep cranking on it?



I fired it up and it didn't seem like it was leaking at all, so I took a test drive. I could easily get boost over 20psi, and going up an onramp I had it up to 24psi all the way up the ramp. Is that normal for a stock 98. 5 24v with no mods but a BHAF? That's about 5psi more than I was expecting! I have the fitting installed the same place as in the picture on the Piers website.



What is the easiest way to route wires to a dash pod? Do I have to drill thru the dash or is there another way to route them?

 

[Big White Beast]

Not sure on the pod......

Boost does seem just a tad high. I think 24 is max before it sets codes for an ETH. A little less for the ETC's. As far as the fitting it almost sounds like your fitting was cross-threaded. If I remember right it should be 1/8 NPT. You could always get a tap and clean it out (removed from the manifold of course).



Garrett

 

[bmoeller]

I have dash pod on my '97. I ran the wires/tubing up in between the drivers side of the dash and the cab above the fuse block. Take the a-pillar cover off. It's a pain to get the wires through there, but there is enough room, it can be done. Make sure you run all the wires and the tubing up at the same time, makes it a little easier than doing it one at a time. Just use electrical tape and tape the ends together and fish them up through. I wrapped black electrical tape on the wires and tubing from the dash mount to the fuse block so it would make them almost invisble and to keep them from getting rubbed through. Good luck.

 

[Johnny5]

A lot of guys have had to tap those banjos deeper, like I did. Pipe taps seem to be inconsistent on various parts that you can buy like this past w/e I had to re-tap a brass bushing (auto parts store) cause my trans sender only went in two threads.



Johnny

 

[BroncoMarc]

Thanks. . I'll try re-tapping it. I need to buy a tap for the pyro sensor anyway.





The BHAF wouldn't add any boost, would it?



__________________

- Marc Reiter

1998. 5 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel - BHAF, more to come...

http://www.broncomarc.com/ram/

 

[BroncoMarc]

I got the boost guage and pyro hooked up and they're both working fine.



Where should I hook up the transmission temp gauge? The Autometer gauge comes with the fittings to drill and tap the pan. I've seen other recommendations to put it in the return line from the cooler. Is one place better than the other?



Now I just need my gauge pod that's still on backorder!



__________________

- Marc Reiter

1998. 5 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel - BHAF, more to come...

http://www.broncomarc.com/ram/

 

[Big White Beast]

The best place is the line.......

You'll need to order a line though that has the port for the sender. Another option is a tee type block that I believe Janetty's sells. The line is best. Pan temps rarely move, your reading the fluid temp returning from the coolers that way.



The lines are for 95 model year trucks I believe. Sorry I don't have the part #. It comes with a check valve so you'll have to remove the little ball and spring inside that part as your truck already has a check valve.



Garrett

 

[R-N-R]

I installed the Jannetty manifold yesterday and it seems to be working fine, however if I had to do it again I would go with the replacement line. The manifolds shipping $$ (50%) brings the total manifold cost closer to the replacement line cost. I inadvertently positioned the ferrule too close to the bend in the line and wound up removing/re-installing the line to correct it.



fwiw,

Bill

 

[bmoeller]

Re: The best place is the line.......

Originally posted by Big White Beast

You'll need to order a line though that has the port for the sender. Another option is a tee type block that I believe Janetty's sells. The line is best. Pan temps rarely move, your reading the fluid temp returning from the coolers that way.



The lines are for 95 model year trucks I believe. Sorry I don't have the part #. It comes with a check valve so you'll have to remove the little ball and spring inside that part as your truck already has a check valve.



Garrett

Cooler line- P/N 5011244 AA Costs somewhere around $100. Mine cost $125 yesterday. My dealer had it in stock.

 

[Johnny5]

Got my Trans Line from Desert Diesel for around $85. There are a few other places to get one instead of paying top dollar at the dealer.