Gauge Lighting

[MLimpert]

I've established from a search that the lighting for gauges comes from one of the orange wires with tracers behind the dimmer switch. What is the best way to tap one of these wires? I'd rather avoid the use of scotchlock type connectors, as they are just not the cleanest install out there. Does anyone have a suggestion of how to get power from one of these wires without hacking up my wiring harnass? Are the orange wires up to the task of an additional load? They sure look pretty small!



Just thinking out loud here, but where does the power come from on an SRT-10 for the factory pod gauge? Is there an additional harnass I can buy to do a similar install?

 

[TCDiesel]

Are you sure, Because the wire to tap for 03 is the black/orange ,04&04. 5 are black with BIG blue. I have not done 05.

 

[BRuppel]

i used trailer clips..... not sure if that is the technical name or what. it is a clean install in my opinion.

 

[rbattelle]

This is just my opinion

In my opinion, there are 2 "right" ways to do a splice connection.



1. Buy a set of crimp-and-seal butt connectors from somewhere like www.waytekwire.com. These are wrapped with polyolefin dual-wall heat shrink tube (that means it has a heat-activated impregnated sealant). Buy 1 size larger than the wire you want to tap. Cut the wire to be tapped, strip both ends. Insert into one end of the connector just the wire going TO the factory switch. In the other end of the connector, insert BOTH the tap wire for your gauges AND the wire heading for the factory wiring harness. Apply heat (with a heat gun, not a match), and you're left with a bulletproof, watertight connection.



2. This method I have been following recently. Take the wire you want to tap, and in a convenient location strip away about 1/2 inch of insulation. DON'T CUT THE WIRE, just carefully strip off the insulation. Here's a picture of what it looks like:

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Next, solder in your gauge tap wire.

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First, paint each wire with 2 coats of liquid electrical tape (available from Eastwood, among other places). Then, wrap the wire individually in self-fusing silicone tape (also available at Waytek), followed by a wrap around the entire wiring harness with that same tape.

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Finish up by wrapping the assembly with spiral loom or split loom (or both). This should be pretty water tight and bombproof.



Again, these are my opinions. They represent the best splice connection I can come up with for the moment.

 

[JRMora]

I chose to solder as well - I hate crimp connectors because when you pull the connectors apart, the wires always loosen. The only thing I'd add, is that I used a good quality "molex" polarized connector in line with my gage lighting so I could unplug my gages to work on them or the truck without having to unwire everything. I used the little compartment on the end of the dash (where the fuses used to be) to place my connectors.



Juan

 

[rbattelle]

I chose to solder as well - I hate crimp connectors because when you pull the connectors apart, the wires always loosen. The only thing I'd add, is that I used a good quality "molex" polarized connector in line with my gage lighting so I could unplug my gages to work on them or the truck without having to unwire everything. I used the little compartment on the end of the dash (where the fuses used to be) to place my connectors.



Juan

I'm not familiar with the "molex" connectors you refer to... can you point me to a pic or a website?



-Ryan

 

[MLimpert]

I got my boost gauge in tonight! Thanks for all of your suggestions. For those who are interested in the 05 wiring arrangement, The dimmer switch currently has several orange wires coming out of it with dark colored tracers. The one that is the dimmed light is the one on the bottom row, next to the empty hole where it looks like another wire could be placed.



Overall it was a pretty easy install and it looks pretty stock underhood. The Piers boost bolt is a wonderful timesaver.

 

[JRMora]

I'm not familiar with the "molex" connectors you refer to... can you point me to a pic or a website?



-Ryan

Ryan,



Molex-type connectors are used primarily in the computer and electronic industries. They are the white connectors you see in the power supply end of a modern PC. They are good for dc currents of up to 10A I think - more than enough for this application. They ahve a little barbed connection you solder on the end of the wire that snaps into the connector body



I buy the connectors at Radio Shack. They come in 2, 3, and 4 conductor, male and femal plugs.



It's dark now but I'll try to get some pictures later.



Juan

 

[Rman]

I think posi-taps and posi-loks work very well, are easy to install and last a long time. I work in electronics field, and well, cutting and soldering is always "best"... but some things are worth the time and some things aren't. I'd put my money on a posi-tap lasting at least 15 years without issue... that would put my truck well above 400k miles and I sure think I'd be seeing more problems than a wire tap... have you seen the cheesy connectors Dodge uses under the dash. That stuff will be junked in 10 years by the looks. They use very brittle insulation, brittle plastic connectors, and little wire protection. I've already had to correct numerous problem with my 2002 (ok... what had potential problems down the road in the way they ran the wire harness. )