Gauge pod and looks.

[Okie-Go]

My dual gauge pod got here today. I got the dual pod from Geno's. It is an autometer according to the package. I am getting the combo egt and boost gauge in one hole. I will later add another one, maybe the rearend temp when I get another cover. Problem is the gauge pod looks like it sticks out a long ways and is kind of funny looking. I don't have the gauge yet but just sitting it up there on the pillar it looks out of whack. I was hoping it would be a smooth factory look like some of the one's I have seen on other trucks at meets I have observed. When I paint it to match the interior it may help some. Do they look better after the gauge is in the pod or am I worrying for nothing?

 

[Cdogg]

Okie

No need to worry! I thought the same thing as you are... A little paint and a few gauges and you'll love the look. Now get to work on the install!!!!! Let us know what you think when your'e done...



Dogg

 

[Lurch]

Everybody feels that way until it's together. Then people will ask if they're factory installed. Put it in, you'll like it.



Lurch

 

[RBrunson]

Guages

Mine looked so normal that my wife thought they came on the truck Must not be too observent, I've had the truck two years before I installed the piller guages. Maybe this means I could slip a few more BOMBS past her.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I'd HIGHLY recommend a fuel pressure gauge WAY before a rear end temp gauge!

 

[RJOL]

Pillar Mount

Okie-Go,



Just mounted my gauges and pillar mount, from Geno's. They look Great after they are painted and installed. I suggest you follow Geno's installation instructions, rather then Auto Meter's. Simple use the new pillar mount to replace the factory trim. You can either use a small tapered head screw (that is counter sunk) or some of the other ideas in TDR. The small screw is not even that noticable, especially if it is painted to match. I put this screw at the top of the piller and drilled into the window frame. Put the pillar mount behind the rubber trim on the left side. This will also help to hold it in place, and looks better.



I also agree that your other gauge should be a fuel pressure gauge. It may save you a lot of money later, if the lift pump starts to fail, and also lets you know that maybe you should replace the fuel filter.

 

[JohnE]

The A-pillar pods do not look natural to me. I always feel it is an &quot;<b>in your face</b>&quot; install.



My opinion on the subject

-John

 

[Bob Cochran]

I just installed a 3 guage Apillar last weekend. After installed being painted to match it is not any more restrictive to vision hardly than the OEM without guages. Gauge lights with green covers at night are not as bright as OEM dash guages. Don't seem to bother me either. For me anyway it worked out great.

 

[RustyJC]

Hey, Okie,



As you know, we got our gauges in last weekend, and even Sandy thinks they look neat (and she's a stickler for that kind of stuff!) I went with the green bulb cover and like the results. By the way, read the part about gluing the extension on the light tube as well as the bulb for your EGT/boost gauge before you assemble it! (Voice of experience speaking here... . )



I went for a Westach combo dual fuel gauge for my 2nd gauge. I'm monitoring pressure out of the lift pump (pre-filter) and into the VP44 (post-filter). Don't know what your pressures are, but my stock 2002 pegs both 16 PSI gauges at idle - the pressures will drop as you give it throttle, but I've never seen anything lower than 12 PSI at the VP44 inlet at WOT - we'll see what it does towing this weekend. My point - wish I'd had Westach build these things as at least 20 PSI gauges!



Rusty

 

[SLittle]

Rusty - Your 2002 fuel pressure is pegging the gauge at 16, seems like the 2001's and earlier had the highest psi in the 12-14 range at idle. Makes me wonder if there has been a lift pump change for the better (hopefully) on the 2002 models. Anyone know if this is the case?



I wonder how high your fuel pressure really is?



Scott

 

[RustyJC]

Scott,



I dunno - guess I need to find a calibrated test gauge. It was sorta good news/bad news when we fired it up after getting the gauges working (that's a whole 'nuther story - lightly crimp those connectors that slide onto the pins on the back of the Westach gauges before you assemble them so that they're a really tight fit on the pins because they will pull loose. ) The good news was we had lots of fuel pressure. The bad news was that I thought, based on the 2001 data I had seen, that 16 PSI gauges & senders would be sufficient. Oh, well... .



Rusty

 

[Bob Cochran]

My electronic Autometer has a top end of 15 PSI. It exceeds this when I first turn on ignition before start; fuel pump runs then it goes to zero. Mine runs between 14 to 14. 6 at idle. Higher speeds steady throttle around 12 PSI. WOT around 7 is the lowest I have seen. Trying to hard to keep from running over others to look close only could glance at it.

 

[OILBRNR]

Originally posted by Steve St. Laurent

I'd HIGHLY recommend a fuel pressure gauge WAY before a rear end temp gauge!

I second this BIG TIME!