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I am about to order gauges for the truck and wondering if I should get the 30psi or 60psi for the boost. What do the new 6. 7's run for boost? Also should I get a rail pressure gauge or lift pump gauge or both? Just adding one gauge moves the price up to 700 :eek:



Thanks Lee
 
Actually a 35 PSI boost gauge is what you need. With the SMARTY I have been able to get above 30 PSI out of the stock turbo.



Even though they have been out for a couple of years the in tank lift pump is still a questionable setup. Both gauges would be ideal but if you are not running a pressure box there should be no need to monitor rail pressure. Lift pump press would be a good thing to monitor.
 
I have just installed the boost guage and pyro guage and trans temp(not operational at this piont). My truck which is 6. 7ltr I have hit 31 or 32 psi of boost. I got the 60 psi. I ordered mine from diesel manor a lot less than 700. 00 for all three I got. BTW they seem to have maybe come up with a fix 68rfe trans temp. We haven't got it yet so we will see.
 
for less than 700 you can get a stg III snow sys



(water/meth)



comes with boost and egt (digital)



get your gauges and 70 hp for same money!
 
Well the 700 was for the rail pressure gauge and the other gauges. So it looks like I would need a 60psi gauge. Also I already have the stage III kit. Just going to install it on another rig.
 
Mechanical gauges have the best accuracy in the center third of the scale. For all calibration work, this is the range the gauge must be able to display. So, for an accurate reading in the 30# region, your gauge should be 0-60#. On a 0-60# gauge, only the 20-40# range would be considered most accurate. Also, that would put a 30# reading straight up - usually the choice for race car drivers on all their instrumentation.



You might get a kick from "pegging" a 35# gauge, but I doubt the reading will be particularly accurate.
 
I use the Westach combo gauge, 0-50 boost and EGTs. With my Quadzilla I get right up around 40 so the gauge is perfect for my application. I don't think you need the fuel pressure gauges personally. By now most power adders are rail pressure sensitive. In other words the tuners are wise to the damage that can be done by excessive pressure and they avoid it. A little research ahead of time will keep you from needing a rail pressure gauge. The lift pump gauge isn't going to do you a whole lot of good either. On the second gens it would tell you if the pump failed, which in turn would kill the VP44. On the third gen if the lift pump fails, the truck dies. It doesn't kill the CP3 pump, the truck just doesn't run anymore. If you are planning heavy mods you will need to go to an aftermarket pump anyway.
 
Just an FYI, the rail pressure gauge is not going to read accurately because the rail pressure sensor is different on this truck and reads a higher psi.
 
I am about to order gauges for the truck and wondering if I should get the 30psi or 60psi for the boost. What do the new 6. 7's run for boost? Also should I get a rail pressure gauge or lift pump gauge or both? Just adding one gauge moves the price up to 700 :eek:



Thanks Lee



I have seen 36lbs of peak boost on my truck with the Edge Juice/Attitude on level 5 and I'll bet when my AFE intake gets here I'll see a pound or so more peak.
 
So the 60 psi gauge is the one I need.



Hsantos, How do you like the Edge Juice? I just don't know about the dpf plugging up faster with the box on. Any thoughts on it would help out.
 
LeeHollis,
As far as I can tell I don't think it's going to be a problem. I have 5500 miles on my truck and it cycles into regen completes and seems to be okay. No codes as of yet either. I have the revision b flash. Fingers crossed...
 
If you look at the Commander it will read everything you want including the correct rail psi. All in one gauge and 1/2 price of what you are talking about.



It fits perfect on the pillar and looks factory.
 
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