Gauge recommendations for towing?

[Mschevey]

I am new to this so please bear with me. I have a new 2001 2500 HO with 6sp. Completely stock at this point with the exception of a K&N filter. I restore antique machinery and will be doing a significant amount of heavy towing (between 17,000# and 20,000#). What gauges should I invest in first? I have heard a lot about Pyro and Boost. What is involved in installing these? Are there any others (rear axle temp, manual trans. temp. , etc. ) that I should look into.



Also I plan on installing an exhaust brake. The dealer and a local accessory shop have both told me that it is not worth it, for me to have them install it. (They both said they don’t do enough to be efficient. Good for confidence?) Is this something I can do my self? I am a Mechanical Engineer and very mechanically oriented and hands on. (Just haven’t done much under the hood of diesels. )



Thanks for any assistance.

 

[Fred Swanson]

Do the E-brake yourself. Yes, it does make a difference. As for gauges, the pyro is probably the most important. And alot of guys will say the fuel pressure is key too. Anything to give you more information.

 

[Max Wedge]

Pyro & boost will allow you to monitor the health & well being of your engine--with or without mod's. A good fuel pressure unit would round out a nice triple gauge combo in your A-piller.



Pyro & boost are a piece of cake to install, just drill & tap your exhaust manifold and and intake elbow for 1/8" pipe thread and install fittings and run into cab.



I swaeted over this for months, but it really is an easy install. So far I have done 3 more for local guys who were like me--affraid to hurt something.



Max

 

[DRR-24V]

Like they said: Pyro and Boost guages. The Pac-Brake is a snap to install and really slows that Rig down on hills.

 

[RustyTRanch]

I second the e-brake.

best thing I put on.

On the guages I did pyro/boost/fuel

I haul just about every weekend

and with fuel cost the boost helps me keep my foot out of it.

Unless I see something to run with!

Put all on you won't be sorry.

later

mike

 

[RustyJC]

Pyro, boost & fuel pressure. Yes, the e-brake makes a noticeable difference - it's worth it!



Rusty

 

[D White]

Pulling that weight, I would go with the e-brake. My father tows 15,000 3 to 4 days a week. Says he would never be without one.

 

[Archive]

Ditto the above comments. Be forewarned that Autometer has sold a LOT of Pyrometers that fog up inside the lens making it real interesting to read the numbers. My own boost gauge is sticking now - and won't move off zero after setting overnight until it sees about 10psi. (My gauges are the white faced Ultra Lites. )



Autometer has regrettably joined Fram on my No-Go list.

 

[chuck3]

Autro-Meter.

TopFuel, Auto meter will replace those gauges with the anti-fog if you take them back to vender you bought them from. I just got mine replaced a couple of weeks ago.

 

[KatDiesel]

Originally posted by TopFuel

Ditto the above comments. Be forewarned that Autometer has sold a LOT of Pyrometers that fog up inside the lens making it real interesting to read the numbers. My own boost gauge is sticking now - and won't move off zero after setting overnight until it sees about 10psi. (My gauges are the white faced Ultra Lites. )

Just curious which gauge is the one fogging up? It seems the "lower end" gauge is the one fogging up, my #4365 UltraLite has never fogged, of course its the more exspensive gauge.



On your boost gauge, have you tested it using an air compressor? Are you sure your line is not kinked at all? Could be silly questions, but could also be a factor?

 

[klenger]

The e-brake is not a difficult installation at all. Good experience at getting hands under the hood.

 

[Archive]

Kat,

My pyrometer is a model #4344. The boost gauge will not leave Zero unless I tap the glass or build up enough boost to pop the needle loose. This is only a problem when the truck has set for several hours. Once the needle has been "woke up", the gauge functions flawlessly.



Chuck3,

I bought the pyro from D. I. S. and it would have to be shipped back to them. If I end up removing the gauge for a replacement, it won't be an Autometer going back into the mount. It will be an SPA. I only get to do a job once and I hold my vendors to the same standard. A three gauge purchase and two are defective. Autometer can cross me off of their list of future customers. (Sorry for the lost sponsorship $$$ NHRA. )



BTW, if the gauges were abused or dropped - it was before they were delivered to me.

 

[Partyat33]

As you have heard Pyro and Boost for sure, fuel pressure is what I am contemplating next. I really like the SPA gauges, but they are $$$$$. However the service is great too.



Dennis