2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Gauge wire routing

[KOdegaard]

Where do you route wires and tubing for pillar mount gauges.

Also where do you get power and where do you get light

power?

TIA

Kirk

 

[truckstom]

On the drivers side under the hood, on the firewall (following me?) there's a rubber boot. Put a slit in it and feed the wire thru. Got my power from the fuse box.

Your best bet is to get with someone that has done it before, that's what I did(thanks Weircummin)

Wish I could be more help...



Oh yeah, welcome to the board

 

[#crnxr]

This was for my '96, not sure how similar to '98. I routed the boost gauge tubing and all wiring behind the factory metal A-pillar clips that most aftermarket pod's don't use. On the '96 there's a rubber trim piece between the dash and the windshild that works well for getting everything behind the dash. The pyro thermocouple wiring and boost tubing then go through the existing rubber firewall grommet. I attached the pyro power box to the metal bracket behind the parking brake with Velcro. You can get power and lighting from the fuse panel. "Key On" power from the cigarette lighter circuit, and lighting (variable with dimming knob) from the dash lighting/instrument circuit. These circuit tap adapters worked well:



http://www.electerm.com/holder.html



Anything I missed can probably be explained by doing a search for "gauges" AND "wiring. "



Oh, and welcome to the TDR Kirk.



-Kyle

 

[KOdegaard]

Thanks guys,

I have the gauges comming end of week and will install

this weekend, I have removed the pillar panal and see

where I can feed the wires down to the fuse panal area

then through the main wire gromet, looks doable...



Again Thanks

Kirk

 

[Oil Burner]

Kirk, when you get the a pillar off you will be able to snake the wires thru easily. Get a piggy back fuse from the autoparts store and tie into the dash lighting fuse (I can't remember which number it is, someone else may chime in) that way your gauge lights will dim with your dash lights. You can get power from several places, I got mine from a painless wiring circuit I added. Just like truckstom said, slit the grommet and slide the wires thru. I straightened a coat hanger and tied my wires and boost tubing to it and pulled them thru.

-Jason

 

[KOdegaard]

Jason

I have read that some on here do not like the piggy back fuses.

I do not have a clue why as I have no experience with them,

have you used them and if so how do you rate them?

Thanks

Kirk

 

[Oil Burner]

Kirk,

I have had no problems with the piggy back fuses on my application. For the gauge lights, you barely draw anything from the existing circuit. I did write that I get my power from my painless wiring circuit (also powers my CB and backup lights). So I guess my point is that for just the gauge lighting, I have had no problems with piggyback fuses.

-Jason

 

[Contractor]

Kirk,



The only problem I had with the piggyback fuse was that it wouldn't fit tightly in the socket for the original fuse. I "shaved" the plastic down a little and it fit very tightly. BTW, I used # 5 for my gauge lights. I too fished all of the wiring and tubing as previously described with little problem. Just take your time and it goes pretty smooth.



Cole

 

[krs]

If you take the lightswitch loose (three screws) you'll likely find that the first wire on the left, facing you, in the switch connector is a tan (or flesh) colored one. Verify with a testlight but it's been the same in the three model years that I have. That wire will give you dimming power for the gauges. It's easy routing from a pillar pod mount as there's a passageway at the back that you can pull the wire through. Stick a coathanger down from above the dash - you'll see it appear back in there.

From behind that switch you can drop through to under the dash to complete the rest of the connections without having a visible mess in your fusebox.



edit: BTW I hate piggyback fuses. They look like s*** and wiggle and get in the way of changing fuses or checking things out. Much better to spend a few for an auxilliary fusebox (like the "painless" pricy versions), mount it neatly under the panel just to the right of the steering column and have the luxury of 7 fused switched power leads. You can keep track of which color supplies what and be happy for the rest of your life.

 

[Oil Burner]

I love my painless wiring kit. I only use the piggy back fuse for dimming lights on the gauges, everything else comes from the painless circuit, which I highly recommend.

-Jason

 

[KOdegaard]

What is this painless wire you refer to? I assume it is

an aux fuse panal?

Again thanks for all the info, I have restored a few cars

in my time and even club raced Porsches for a time,

but am new to the diesel and the beast they come in.

Kirk

 

[krs]

Geno's has "Painless" kits. It's a brand name and you can read about them in their catalog online or other. Summit racing has a couple of other brands, and even JC Whitney has some. They're all add-in fuse panels that are prewired and ready to use without much risk or electrical intuition.

 

[Oil Burner]

Kirk,

Painless wiring is the company. They have several kits that provide a series of power circuits some ignition hot and some constant power. They are a great addition and don't interefere with factory wiring.

-Jason

 

[Howard Durand]

A tool I use for running small sized wires through the rubber grommet in the firewall is a short piece of hard plastic tubing, about 1/4 inch in diameter, with one end cut at a bevel so it has a sharp point.

Shove the tubing through a slit or hole in the grommet then push the wire through it. Go inside and pull both wire and tubing on through. Remove the tubing and save it for future use.