Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Gauges, I don’t need no stinkin gauges!

[TWafer]

NOT! :-laf

But now that I have your attention, I’ve got a question. I’ve been installing my gauges the last couple nights. I have all the gauges in a pillar pod, EGT, boost and fuel pressure. (mines a 5 speed) That end is all hooked up and finished. I have the EGT probe installed in the manifold and had no trouble. That works fine. The boost I just have to make the connection on the engine but lacked an 1/8” elbow. For the fuel pressure I tapped the banjo bolt on the pump and connected a 1/8’ flex grease gun hose from there to a device which came with the gauge called an isolator. (gauges are Hewitt brand). Then from that to the gauge with the hose provided. I assumed the isolator was to prevent the needle fluctuation from the fuel pump. If it is, it’s not doing its job because the needle vibrates 2 or 3 lbs like crazy. It’s a brass device about 3-1/2” long and maybe an inch or so in diameter. Is this not the purpose of this thing?

Should I just try the needle valve thing like has been discussed and forget this thing or maybe try a needle valve along with it. Opinions welcomed.

Tim

PS: What’s normal fuel pressures at idle, cruising, WOT? Looked like about 20 or a bit more at idle. Sound right?

 

[BTighe]

you have the good pump, you shouldnt need a fp gauge. not sure what pressure should be at.

 

[Stake Man]

As far as I know, an isolater keeps the fuel from going to the gauge in the case like you have it installed inside the vehicle. At least thats what I understood from the Autometer catalog.

 

[CarlJensen]

Put a needle valve on the line where grease gun hose is hooked in. The isolater keeps fuel out of cab, needls valve damps fluctuations. Crank it up and adjust needle valve til fluctuations stop, doesn't take much fuel through it to make pressure gauge work. You will end up with isolater and needle valve both installed. With a 95 the fuel gauge is not needed but as you allready have it would be nice if it worked for ya. .

 

[bmoeller]

Fuel Pressure: 18-24 psi at idle, 28-36 at 2000 rpm with no load.

 

[TWafer]

Boost pressures?

OK I see! Thanks guys! That makes sense so I put a needle valve in tonight and that solved the pulsing problem. Fuel pressure looks A-OK now. I also hooked up the boost gauge and now have some questions about that.

I hooked into the 1/8” NPT port right behind the injector pump. I also reinstalled the original airbox & filter because I wanted to be as close to stock as I could to start with. I still do have the 4” turbo back muffler system and the Cat is MIA.

Maybe someone can explain to me what the boost readings might normally be with this setup. I took it for a short ride tonight unloaded to test it. Here's what I found. Tomorrow Ill try it with a load.

At idle it was about 1 at best

The highest I saw it was about 16. That was going up a good hill with the hammer down.

Normal driving up a good hill was 8 or 10.

Level cruising was 4 or 5.

Don’t know if these figures sound reasonable or not. I just wanted to make sure everything is OK before I start with some mods. I have a # 10 plate and a 3000 GSK id like to install this weekend. Oh, and reinstall my BHAF. :-laf

Thanks again

Tim

 

[Jschafer]

Tim

If I remeber correct stock boost was about 18 max, those all look about rite to me

 

[ndurbin]

It might not hurt to check some of the boost clamps to see if they need tightening up alil. 18-21 is the max. wastegated PSI if I remember correctly. But when you crank up the power dont go much over 30-35 range as your shortening the life of the turbo and just pushing hot air in.



Nathan

 

[Joe G.]

I disagree with the notion that a fuel pressure gauge is not needed. It will warn you that something is wrong with the fuel system before you would know otherwise. That has kept me from walking. It is also very useful for diagnosing fueling problems.

 

[K5IP]

15 to 16 was normal for a stock 95 5 spd

Rog

 

[Joe G.]

15 to 16 was normal for a stock 95 5 spd

Rog

That's low. It should be at least 18 PSI at idle. See page 14-107 in the '95 service manual. It says the pressure should be 25 PSI. It will run ok at 18 at idle but that is low. It should be at least 21 PSI at 2000 RPM with no load. If my fuel pressure gets below 20 I start looking for something wrong.

 

[Jschafer]

I think he was talking about the boost (15-16)

I think

 

[ABorchard]

I'm with Joe, although a fp gauge isn't necessary like on the 24 valves it sure can save you from breaking down.

Big advantage is that it takes the guess work out of when to change the fuel filter and can pay for itself by avoiding just a couple of needless changes.

 

[CarlJensen]

Fuel press on a 95 may be a good idea. I have thought of a mechanical under the hood at the NPT on top of filter. Would let me check every once in a while while under the hood.

 

[TWafer]

That's low. It should be at least 18 PSI at idle. See page 14-107 in the '95 service manual. It says the pressure should be 25 PSI. It will run ok at 18 at idle but that is low. It should be at least 21 PSI at 2000 RPM with no load. If my fuel pressure gets below 20 I start looking for something wrong.

I too think he was referring to the boost pressure. My fault for switching topics in the middle of the thread.



I tried it out under a mild load today. I towed a light trailer (5000LBS) up and down some big hills just to get a feel for what the gauges would read.



Fuel pressure ranged from a low of 17 at idle to the highest I saw at 27. Normal was about 22-24. This seems to be in the suggested range so I assume everything is ok here. I installed a FP gauge because I had some fuel delivery problems (leaks, overflow valve, suction leak inside tank) in the past and just thought it would be nice to have. Besides it filled the tri pod pillar mount! :-laf



The EGT ranged from about 300 at idle to the highest I saw at about 1050 climbing the hills. Coasting down hill I sometimes saw it down to 200



Boost ranged from nil at idle to the highest I saw of 17. Not knowing much about boost I was surprised at how it responded. It takes quite a bit to push it up but it will drop immediately when you let off. I guess this makes sense but just wasn’t expecting it. Apparently this is also in the suggested range for a stock setup.



This weekend I’m planning on installing the # 10 plate and 3000GSK. I already put the BHAF back on tonight along with changing the antifreeze and thermostat. Looking forward to seeing what its like next week! Oo.

Tim

 

[Extreme1]

If you got the plate kit with the boost elbow (not something off eBay) you should see 34+ pounds of boost under a load. Stock was 16. Keep your EGT's low enough to keep from melting pistons. The 3K GSK makes a huge difference on '94-'95 trucks.

 

[SBozeman]

This weekend I’m planning on installing the # 10 plate and 3000GSK.

I don't know how you planning on doing the 3K GSK install, but I recently did mine and I would definently go through the side of the pump. I was a piece of cake compared to going in through the top and there is no chance of dropping something into the pump.

 

[TWafer]

gsk intructions

I don't know how you planning on doing the 3K GSK install, but I recently did mine and I would definently go through the side of the pump. I was a piece of cake compared to going in through the top and there is no chance of dropping something into the pump.

Hmmmm? Don’t know. All I have are the TST instructions that came with it and glancing at them it appears they show going through the top. Are there any instructions or pictures of installing them through the side? Didn’t know that was even possible but easier sounds good to me!

Tim

 

[SBozeman]

Use the instructions from here it will make the install much easier. There is a plug nut on the side of the pump. After you get it open you can bar (roll) the engine over until the gov. springs come into view of the hole. That way you have direct access to the springs which greatly reduces your chance of dropping something into the pump. I suppose there is a slight chance you could drop something in but you would have to work at it. You can use your fingers instead of a long screw driver and magnets to remove the springs. I have heard horror stories of guys that have had to remove the whole pump because they dropped a shim or spring into the pump and were unable to fish it out. Enjoy! The GSK was a nice addition to my truck.

 

[TWafer]

Oo. I got both the plate and the spring kit installed this weekend. I see what you mean about going through the side. It certainly appeared easier than reaching way down through the top. Thanks for the tip!

Tim