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Engine races/succeful results

Clutch torque specs.

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ok, i got them in with out to much trouble, it take a little more time than 1 hour per gauge but they look great in the piller, but i am no sure if they work right, the boost dont start reading until you start shifting it is at 0 at idle, the egt only got past 6 once and when i pulled up to a stop light it went back down to nothing, i have auto meter ultra light gauge and i was just wondering in if this is normal or did i screw up somewhere?? also when you let your foot out of the gas the boost goes back down to 0, and i cant figure out where to hook up my power wires.

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99 quad cab 4x4 5spd 355 gears sandstone color K&N air filter starit pipe spray in bed liner goose neck ball- theres nothig like the smell of Diesel in the morning.
 
Hoss it sounds like your boost is working OK, what was the highest reading you saw? As for the pyro is is not working right. You can slip a wire down between the pillar and the dash to the fuse panel to get some power. I am not familiar with the autometers so that is about all the help I can give you. Good luck.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member
 
Boost will only read when accelerating; idle or cruising on a straightaway won't read much at all. Punch it up a hill and it should spool right up. Your EGT sounds messed up though if I read you post right. On start-up(cold motor) it should read 200-300 degrees depending on grid heater cycling. EGT should act like your tach when you press on the fuel pedal. What tap (12v ignition) did you wire your temperature module into? I also ran a thread on your old post. Good luck!

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99 2500SLT,QC,4x4,6-spd, 3. 5 lsd,LB,Camper group , Jacobs E-Brake, Autometer Pyro & Boost guages, Rhino liner, Airlift 5000 airbags, Redline hitch,Tekonsha brake control,Diamomd plate bed rails,Dodge grill & splash guards.
 
Things to check on the gauges.

boost Guage
Unhook the plastic line to the back of the gauge. When you start up the moter and you hold the end of the line there should be air blowing. If there is not than the problem maybe where the line is hooked up to.
Max boost should be 30PSI if you have changed the barb fitting, if stock should be around 20psi. At an Idle you won't be producing much boost because the turbo is not spinning very fast. At moderate speed, about 50mph if you put your foot into it you should easly product 15psi boot. Note that boost must build up and it's typically under acceleration, when you are putting fuel into the motor. At highway cruising, I run around 6psi.

Pyro guages.
Take a ohmmeter and place the leads across the back of the terminals. The needle on a isspro gauage should go straight up. If it does not than the guage may have a defect. On some they have a wire clip at the back of the guage across the terminals. You will have to remove this wire clip or the guage will really not function. You will get really low readings or none at all.
Test 2
With an voltmeter hooked up, heat the prope up. You should set the prope generate 1. 5 volts if memory is correct when you have the prope glowing. A propane torch works fine. If the voltage increases than the prope is probally working fine. The only thing left is the wire in the middle and it's probally not the problem. Contact the sales company's tech support for exact details on what resistance and voltage should be on the guage and prope. That will help identify the failure.

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95, Kitty dead, #6plate, 5speed.
 
Hoss,
I used the cigar lighter for my power to the boost gauge and the tan wire in the light switch for the gauge lighting. I understand that there may be two tan wires, so check the current by turning the lights on and check that the dimmer works too. Don't forget to check the ground w/ a ohm meter. Been there done that. I ran a 14g. ground wire from the drivers side fender where it is grounded to the battery to the metal cross brace under the steering column and attached all ground wires to it. I was scratching my head a few times last weekend with a few problems also. Got confused and completely missed a ground wire for the lights. Something illflem said made me check it again and that's when I found the problem. Just double check all connections. If it still doesn't work, check it in the morning. Things may be clearer. BTW is your probe inserted far enough into the manifold? I got 2-300 degrees immediately and saw 1000 max w/ 1/2 thottle right away. My boost maxed at 20 lb, but sits at 0-1 lb. at idle.
Good luck,
Tom
 
Nothing worng with your Boost gauge. As for the EGT, the wires coming out of the back of that gauge are permanent and there is no way to hook a voltmeter to them. Autometer uses the black box to transfer the tempature signal from the Thermocouple to a signal to the gauge to display tempature. Double check that you have the wires hooked up right to the box, even if you checked it twice when you installed it, check it again. Alot of times you will look at something that is not right but it does not register in your brain. If you are positive the wiring is correct, make sure the Thermocouple is in fact seated far enough into the manifold. Alot of EGT gauge related problems are due to simple wiring mixups. That would be the first place i would check. If you try all i mentioned and still have no luck, try caling Autometer monday and ask for the tech department, they will walk you through anything you need to do.
 
Thanks for all the help you guys are givein me, it is helping out a lot!The boost gauge is working good from what you all say it is fine, i am getting nothing at start up but wen i get on it it maxs at about 20 so it sounds to me like its ok but i am gettin a hissing sound at around 15 and i cant figure out what it is it only does it at around 15, i think i didnt get the hose tight enough on the back of the gauge, as for the egt, going down the high way at 70 i am reading 800 (its sarts at 6 and goings to 1600) but when i come to a stop light it falls to 6, i am going to check everthing tomorrow and see whats up, i might have to call jegs and tell them to send another egt gauge, buy the way i did screw it all the way down into the manifold so i dont think that its tht but i will check again, i am really pleased with the way the pod looks, it is great, anyway i will report back tomorrow and tell you if anything is differnt.

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99 quad cab 4x4 5spd 355 gears sandstone color K&N air filter starit pipe spray in bed liner goose neck ball- theres nothig like the smell of Diesel in the morning.
 
Hoss,
Sound like the boost gauge is fine. Do I understand you correctly that your EGT gauge starts at 600 degrees? I have the Westach combo gauge and it starts at 100 degrees. The advantage of this is you know when the gauge reads 300 that it's ok to shut down the engine so you don't "coke" the oil in the turbo. BTW mine reads about 6-700 at 70 mph and usually drops to 400 if I let off the gas at a light or something. It usually drops to 300 in less than a minute if the trans is in Park. If 600 is the starting point on your gauge, I'd get one that starts lower. IMHO
 
Hoss stated that "it starts at 6 and goes to 1600". Maybe I mis-understood what he ment by that. Westach has one that goes from 700 to 1700. So I guess it's not unheard of. Have no idea what the application would be.
 
I got them all worinking right today and i want to say Thank you to everybody that answerd my reply, i had a pice missing out of the back of my boost gauge (looks like it broke off) so i put some blue gasket maker in it and it dont hiss any more and as for the egt, i am guessing it works right, the lowest number on the gauge is 600 and the highest is 1600, running down the highway and 55 i am reading 800 or a little below and when i let up on the gas, the needle falls and when i get back on it, the needle rises so i am guessin it works, thanks agagin for all the help. Ian

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99 quad cab 4x4 5spd 355 gears sandstone color K&N air filter starit pipe spray in bed liner goose neck ball- theres nothig like the smell of Diesel in the morning.
 
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