Gauges revisited

[bob257]

I asked about getting gauges previously and had different answers. One suggested that if I haven't changed anything with the truck that I probably wouldn't need them. Another person thought that a red flag could go up to the local dealer who works on the truck if they see gauges. If I decide to get some gauges, which should I get? I'm confused. I thought that I'd get a EGT, a trans temp and perhaps a boost gauge. I see them with different ranges which is the confusing part. There are boost gauges that go to 35, 60, and 100 and EGT that goes to 16000 and some less. Which would be the proper gauges? Also, I'm not mechanically inclined so I would need to find someone to install them. Does anyone know someone in the Lancaster, Pa area that could help? Would it be smart to have the local dealer install them?

Thanks!

 

[BigPapa]

I would suggest something like the Edge Insight CS or CTS for the 6. 7L. It's plug and play, utilizes a windshield mount so it's easliy removed, and displays pretty much anything you'd like to monitor. It is a monitor ONLY and not a tuner.



The only downside with the Dodge is that the 6. 7 does not have a thermocouple pre-turbo. The closest probe is pre-cat. You could add one in the manifold, though.



They're also reasonably priced compared to a set of analog gauges, especially if you have to pay for installation.



Scott

 

[steved]

I bought an Edge Insight based on suggestions from others on this forum for my 2004. 5. It plugs into, and reads mainly, from the OBD port under the dash. I believe it would also provide EGTs from your 2010's factory EGT sensors through the OBD port (no manifold drilling necessary). It also displays up to eight parameters at one time.

If I wanted to keep it stock looking, and not have any questions raised, that would be my choice as it can be suctioned to the windshield and removed prior to taking to the dealer so that no questions are raised.

 

[HBarlow]

It is a fact that an unmolested engine does not NEED gauges but many of us WANT gauges for useful information.

I believe gauges have always been valuable to monitor EGT to determine when to shut down a hot engine. The owner can use the owner's manual time-based guidelines but I like to read the actual temp before shut down.

Gauges can also be very important in diagnosing engine performance problems. Without a boost and EGT gauge the driver has little understanding of what is wrong.

I consider gauges even more important on ISB6. 7 engines because you don't know when it is in regen mode without them.

I and many others prefer traditional analog gauges with a needle rotating around a round face. They are permanently installed in a windshield trim panel to left of driver and not easily noticed or stolen when parked overnight in a dark area.

Dopers often break into cars and trucks to steal GPS devices off dashes. Dopers are seldom very smart and can mistake a digital device for a GPS, break out one of your windows, and grab your digital product without knowing what it is.

I and most others I know prefer a three gauge panel with EGT, Boost, and transmission fluid temps. I have used them in all three of my current and previous Dodge Rams although the '01 was a manual six speed and I had only two gauges in that truck.

I strongly preferd drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold. THAT location gives the most accurate EGT reading.

 

[THoltz]

I like my gauges. I have EGT, transmission temp with probe in pan, and 0-60 psi boost gauge. I also have a rear differential gauge. I would recommend you consider a dimmer to wire in series with the power wire if you buy gauges backlit by LED's. I have Autometer LED gauges and they are bright, so I added the autometer dimmer. I have been thinking about addind a fuel pressure gauge also. I could recommend a very good shop if your were in the Phoenix area.

 

[bob257]

What do you think about the trans temp gauge that come with the factory information? I"m thinking that I'll only need to get an EGT and boost gauge. Thoughts?

 

[BGlidewell]

Stock really needs a transmission temperature gauge with a sensor at the output towards the cooler, the hottest readings come from there.


That said, a baseline is always nice to have and deviation will indicate a problem proactively. I'd go with EGT next in my priorities. Boost is usually 0-30 or 0-60. I went with 0-60 since I did not know if I'd need it later. The truck never reads above 30 or 32.

Again if it was ME and stock, the transmission oil temp would be my main concern.

 

[dresslered]

Hopefully, its no longer needed on your 2010, but my fuel pressure gauge has been the most important gauge of all over the last decade. It alerted me to 4 dying lift pumps before they finally went. For a stock truck, the next most important (in my humble opinion) is the pyro. I use it for cool-down temperatures alone and thus I run it post turbo.

 

[THoltz]

There have been many posts about the location of the sensor/instrument for the transmission oil temperature. Not trying to start any arguments here, but to me it makes the most sense to use thermocouple in the pan to indicate bulk fluid temperature. This is the oil the pump takes a suction on and delivers to the valve body, torque converter, and the planetary gears and clutch packs, etc. I think the factory uses a thermistor located in the valve body to indicate temperature, so, I prefer T/C in the pan and I believe a quality instrument is more accurate than the factory indicator. Mag Hytec pans come from the factory with a tapped & plugged instrument location, if you buy a Mag Hytec buy the double deep pan. Anyhow, no offense to anyone, but that is my opinion.

 

[jeepit]

Don't know if you have a stick or auto. I consistently use mine while towing to monitor EGT and boost to find where the "sweet spot" is so the motor is running at it's most fuel efficient rpm.

 

[SnoKing]

There have been many posts about the location of the sensor/instrument for the transmission oil temperature. Not trying to start any arguments here, but to me it makes the most sense to use thermocouple in the pan to indicate bulk fluid temperature. This is the oil the pump takes a suction on and delivers to the valve body, torque converter, and the planetary gears and clutch packs, etc. I think the factory uses a thermistor located in the valve body to indicate temperature, so, I prefer T/C in the pan and I believe a quality instrument is more accurate than the factory indicator. Mag Hytec pans come from the factory with a tapped & plugged instrument location, if you buy a Mag Hytec buy the double deep pan. Anyhow, no offense to anyone, but that is my opinion.

I have a probe in the transmission pad and another in the output line. My experience over 6 or 7 years of towing is one could toast the transmission before the probe in the pan indicated that it was getting to hot. The probe in the output line is quick to indicate what is going on with transmission fluid. Stop and go traffic and spotting the trailer are two of the biggest heat builders. Idling in gear in stop and go traffic brings up heat very fast and I start going to neutral when stopped.



This is based on my truck with 4:10's, full DTT, 89% TC and DTT smart controller towing a 12K+ 5th wheel.



SNOKING

 

[BGlidewell]

I have a probe in the transmission pad and another in the output line. My experience over 6 or 7 years of towing is one could toast the transmission before the probe in the pan indicated that it was getting to hot. The probe in the output line is quick to indicate what is going on with transmission fluid. Stop and go traffic and spotting the trailer are two of the biggest heat builders. I idling in gear in stop and go traffic brings up heat very fast and I start going to neutral when stopped.



This is based on my truck with 4:10's, full DTT, 89% TC and DTT smart controller towing a 12K+ 5th wheel.



SNOKING

If anyone is considering using the clamp-on aluminum bullet looking doo-dad, I had one on my stock output line for abut a year. It NEVER read higher than 150. I finally got around to putting in the line ordered from some reference here that had the fitting for the sensor so the sensor is actually in the stream of oil. No comparison between the performance. I cant recommend that clamp-on thing at all.

 

[RVTRKN]

A little more clarification, when stock and staying within Dodges GVWR/GCVWR, no gages needed. But as HBarlow has posted, the 6. 7 has more of a need for gages. Even though as of yet I have no gages, I plan on adding them next year before a long trip I have planned, with my 5ver that will be at the GVWR as well as the truck at its GVWR.



I plan on a 2 gage set at the drivers side pillar, it will have a Boost and EGT analog set, I don't think I need one for the transmission due to it being a manual. I will also have the Exhaust Manifold removed to drill & tap for the EGT probe, to eliminate the possibility of shavings entering the turbo.

 

[crispyboy]

It would be nice if they could integrate a tire pressure system for a trailer with the digital gauge pack. I see where you can get a backup camera with the Edge Insight - I guess I need to put one of these on my wish list.

 

[Fireman Dave]

Hopefully, its no longer needed on your 2010, but my fuel pressure gauge has been the most important gauge of all over the last decade. It alerted me to 4 dying lift pumps before they finally went. For a stock truck, the next most important (in my humble opinion) is the pyro. I use it for cool-down temperatures alone and thus I run it post turbo.

Dave took the words right out of my keyboard. I'm on my 4th lift pump - but still on my first VP-44, thanks to my fuel pressure gauge. Even a stock truck can benefit from gauges.