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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Gear Oil

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Amsoil ATF in NV5600?

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Hi everyone,

I would appreciate any advice on which Gear lube you prefer,

and why.

I have a Mag Hytec Diff cover on the way, and I would like to

know how much anti-slip additive to put in with the increased capacity?

Also what brand of additive do you use?

Thanks Chuck E.
 
Chuck,



I put Amsoil in engine, diffs, and transfer case. No additive necessary when using Amsoil in diffs.



Used Quaker State/Pennzoil Synchromesh in 6-speed transmission (warranty issue), but will switch over to Amsoil when warranty is out.



My observation about Amsoil gear lubricant (previously used Mobil 1) is that it adheres to metal better, but at the same time is more fluid.



Dwayne
 
Amsoil Series 2000 in the rear diff. No scientific reason for me to choose the Amsoil. Read a bunch about rear diff lube (on TDR) and it seemed like many recommended it so that's what I went with. Took 4 oz (1 small bottle) of anti-slip mod to keep it from skipping the inside tire going around a corner. Front diff use plain gear oil since it lasts virtually forever in normal use (not much in 4x4 for me).



-Deon
 
Friction Modifier

I just changed my rear axle lube for the 2nd time. The first time, after I installed a Mag Hytec cover, I used Amsoil 75W90 Series 2000. It says that no additive is necessary. That was true the first time around. I just changed it again at 51,000 miles. Used the same Amsoil lube. This time I had the chatter. So I ended up adding about 2 ounces of Kendall limited-slip additive and the chatter is almost gone. Might need another ounce.



I also went with regular cheap 75W90 for the front axle since it doesn't run under such a load and generate heat.



What did suprise me was the front axle lube was almost white when I drained it out due to water contamination. I thought at first it was from the vent tube, but when you think about it, the front axle never gets very hot. Here in south Texas it is pretty humid. The inside of the axle gets water condensation in it when it cools overnight and after 2+ years it was enogh to turn the lube greyish white.
 
I filled the rear differential with Amsoil Series 2000 75W-140W at 24,000 miles with no modifier needed. After 4,000 miles I started feeling a slight grinding in the driveline when turning. Two ounces of Mopar modifier and it stopped.
 
I've run Amsoil Series 2000 75W90 and 75W140 in my differential. I've used the latter for the last two maintenance cycles. First time I used the 75W90, no chatter, so no friction modifier was necessary. Same thing with the 75W140, the first cycle. Second cycle it chattered and grinded until I put the modifier in. I've got a Mag-Hytec cover. I've got between 7. 5 and 8 quarts in the differential. Check the vent hose for blockage and the cap for sticking. It will blow the lube out the pinion seal. This recently happened to me. I blew out the tube, which was not blocked. I noticed that the cap stuck from time to time. Fooled around with it a bit and the leak went away.
 
after changing my fluid with amsoil 2000 series, my diff chattered like heck. drained, went back to dino and a full tube of modifier, it wet away, advaned driveline told me that rear ends with anti-slip differentials do better with dino fluid in them anyways.
 
I've been using Redine 75-90 in both diffs - didn't need to add any modifier.



Using Redline mt-90 in the 5spd.



Redline D4ATF in the transfercase.





Remember - if you compare similar types of fluids (synthetic vs synthetic ) The results are going to be very similar. I've found out it boils to a personal preference - and for me - what is the easiest to get.



If you tow a lot, live in a cold or hot climate, or just want the best for your truck - go with synthetic.



Dan



Anyone know of any good scientific comparison on the different brand synthetic oils??
 
Originally posted by 2ndgen2500

advaned driveline told me that rear ends with anti-slip differentials do better with dino fluid in them anyways.



I'm not sure why someone told you that. Non-synthetics might not let the clutches slip as much as synthetics, but that's no reason to globally say that if you have a limited slip differential, you shouldn't use synthetic gear lube.



I don't think I'd go back to a shop that told me that.



Mike
 
mike, as strange as it sounds, he said that this dino is the best flud to run in my diff, i have a D70, either way, he has been building mine and my familys axles for years, he did the shafts, pinon gears, lockers on my jeep and my blazer, both on big mud tires that i used for years and never had one lick of a problem out of, he is top notch, and if you want to explain why when i had amsoil 75-90w i had some very serious gear clatter, and the second after i drained and refilled with dino it was gone, im open to suggestions. but it was case and point for me...
 
Synthetics are superior to dino lubes when excess heat is an issue. If you don't tow heavy loads, then dino is fine.

Synthetics are able to withstand more heat before breaking down. That is just one reason to run synthetic.

Is the "clatter" you are referring to a rumbling sound with a chattering sensation when not going in a straight line? If so that was the limited slip clutches sliding against each other. They're designed to do that but if they are too tight then they will resist, or load and unload, causing the vibration/chatter. Even the slightest turn can cause it in most cases. Mine was doing that and so far with 3 oz of limited slip additive (friction modifier) in my rear axle and Amsoil Series 2000, it is smooth again.
 
i really want to run synthetic in mine, i guess i need to put more friction modifier in there... i was definatly freaking out when my gears started doing that, i have never had that happen before accept on this olld POS mud truck i welded the spider gears on... but thats really now the same thing... i have another 9 quarts of 2000 series, maybe i'll give it anohter go head. and yes, i tow quite a bit so the added protection would be worthwhile.
 
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