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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gear Swap VS More Power? Advice?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission procedure changing injectors

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Axle questions

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Sold the 2003 6 speed, pulled the 40' fifth wheel awesome.



Now, back to Mom's Dually 4x4, 355's, & the auto. It works hard pulling hills, and getting going. I just don't want to cook the transmission. I hate having to to go 75 to get in the sweet spot. Too dangerous.



When pulling with the 98, I never get above 1200 degrees, even on a long pull. My only problem has been blowing off the intercooler hose. Buying those soon from Piers.



Can I get away with more power instead of swapping gears?



I run one of the orginal blue boxes on 40%. 50 never changed anything. Other than a 4" exhaust, all the rest is stock.



Any other products good for my application towing 15000 lbs besides twins?



Any help would be appreciated.
 
Towing 15k with 3. 55 is not advisable in the first place. But do agree you need 4. 10 gears. The stock 215 hp is anemic with 10k and is in need of a few more ponies/torque to move that load. I would Go with an EZ or some type of towing box.
 
3.5s & the Auto

Yep..... I fel your pain! Thats a friggin big heavy trailer your pullin! I pull #8000 + & the 3. 5s just pretty much suck! (Of course I have tall tires as well) If you add an EZ & small injectors that will help a bunch but 4. 10s are definately gonna be desired!

I tried going with larger injectors for more power but then I ran into EGT problems & if I downshifted when I needed to, my trans temps would spike. No winning here. Get the 4. 10s, buy a used EZ, & some small injectors (275s or DD1s) & I think you'll be alot happier.

Read my sig. My setup works pretty good but I'm going to 4. 10 this spring to once & for all fix my towing problems... .



Clay
 
I think you're on the right track with a gear swap to 4:10s to run in the sweet spot at a safe speed. Then something like EZ and stage 1 type injectors should provide all the power you need for towing. I hope the ATS in your sig means transmission upgrades and that you have a transmission temp gauge too. Too bad a 4x4 doubles the cost of a gear swap :(
 
Boondocker said:
I think you're on the right track with a gear swap to 4:10s to run in the sweet spot at a safe speed. Then something like EZ and stage 1 type injectors should provide all the power you need for towing. I hope the ATS in your sig means transmission upgrades and that you have a transmission temp gauge too. Too bad a 4x4 doubles the cost of a gear swap :(



I like everyone else. slipped the converter when adding power. Had the transmission rebuilt at 100k, while I had to take it out anyway to add the ATS converter. I have had no issues with transmission, it heats up, but no fluid issues in 40k miles. I just feel It is shifting too much when I tow at Max GVCW. Can't be good.
 
I tow 10K with the 354's, no problem at all. But with that auto I would gear it to the 410, most of the duallies I have ever seen had 410's stock. I use mine as a daily driver also, so I don't want 410's. If you put more power to it you might hurt that trans. And where I live you better go at least 75, or a Peterbilt will run you over. :D



Tom
 
Why no buy a CaTCHer ECM ?

It will fill the void at take off. It will add some power and clean up the detuning that comes from the factory ECM.

Most who have added power the correct way prefer the 3. 5 axle.

The only time I support the 4. 1 ratio is a dedicated puller. If it ever runs empty stay with the 3. 5 and add torque by tuning.
 
see sig,



I tow 13k 5er in FLAT FL mainly, and out of O/D to get the torque and rpm. I am going to 4. 10's before I go full time.



Yes transmission rebuilt, yes bigger turbo, yes injectors, yes slow spooling up. The only thing I have not tried is a Catcher which will be before the 4. 10's.



HOWEVER, I imagine the stress going on in the diff towing heavy and not too thrilled with that idea, a sure failure somewhere along the line. Towing I drive it like a raw egg to keep the stress down as much as possible when towing. Yes I **** a lot of people off with slow, even, gentle, acceleration, but I consciously try to manage the rear end stress.



I bought 3. 54 NOT thinking about the rear end stress and before I joined TDR.



Bob Weis
 
Not really the rear end stress I'd be worried about. More the stress on the transmission.



I'm sure adding more power will help, but the auto trannies aren't the best to start out with... push more power into it and your transmission shop will just love you :-laf





I run 3. 55s and 315/75r16 tires. It's fine empty, but when I'm pulling, it's not very fun. I'm going to 4. 10s. The 4. 10s are bascially going to put me at the same point that the truck was at with 3. 55s and stock tires.
 
as i understand from 4 wheeling the 3. 54 gears are stronger than 4. 10 gears maby not by much. the ring gear is thinner but the pinion is bigger on 3. 54's and 95% of the rearend failures with gears have been the pinion gear. a theor i have is take your torque output of the engine say 400ft lbs and multiply it by 1st gear ratio say 3:1 then multiply by rearend ratio and see how much more torque is put on the axleshafts. 400x3x3. 54=4248ft lbs 400x3x4. 10=4920 672ft lbs diff
 
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