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GearVendor Vibration

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I have got a strong vibration @ 60 mph. Above 60 to 120 smooth.

Any speeds lower is also smooth. But at 60 mph there it is. I posted a few weeks back about a blown G/V and in one of the replies he mention about this vibration at the same speed. IS THIS COMMON
 
Simon:



I have the US Gear over-drive and too have the vibration. I believe the culprit is a bad pinion angle with the one piece drive line. I have not been able to find an inclinometer to check. Today a mech found a bad bearing in my transfer case that could be some of my problem but the angle is almost never checked.



. . Preston. .
 
I had a mild vibration with my U. S. Gear unit and originally thought it was the driveshaft. After the driveshaft guy checked all the angles and re-balanced the shafts, the vibration remained.



At his suggestion I installed a self-made rubber isolated mount at the rear of the U. S. Gear transmission to help support the extra weight that was being carried by the transmission housing. That cured it.



Previous to the new mount, the last support was way forward at the transmission. The transfer case didn't have any frame support. It got moved aft about a foot when I installed the U. S. Gear. That's a lot of weight to hang off the end of a transmission with no support from the truck's frame.



Funny thing... Before I installed the extra support the cruise control would not operate in 6-over. Now it works fine.



I got the rubber isolators from McMaster-Carr. They have an on-line catalog and excellent service.



Loren
 
check for end play on the yoke bearing sleeve at the end of the gear vendor. It's easy to replace. It's the same brass sleave as a turbo 400 automatic transmission.



Verlyn
 
Out of three drivers (besides me) who posted at this thread, two of them have sent PM's asking for more information. Here it is for anyone else who is following this:



I have a U. S. Gear, so it may be different for Gear Vendors.



In my case, I crawled around under the truck until I found a likely looking spot to bolt up a mount. There was a frame cross-member directly beneath a seam on the U. S. Gear unit, where there is a row of bolts.



I used a 6-inch long piece of 2-inch angle iron to make the bracket. I drilled holes to attach it to two of the bolts on the U. S. Gear transmission, cut out a notch to allow access to the oil drain plug, and drilled two more holes on the bottom to attach the neoprene mounts. Two matching holes in the frame cross-member allowed for bolts to hold the rubber mounts in place.



I got two mounts from McMaster-Carr. I ordered them on-line:



http://www.mcmaster.com/



The parts I ordered were called sandwich mounts, neoprene, cylindrical, 2" diameter x 2-1/8" high. They used 1/2"x13 bolts and cost $7. 31 each. The McMaster-Carr part number is 64885K54.



I had the mounts on hand before I drilled any holes in the angle iron, because the location of the holes has to be right. I managed to get it right the first time, but if you don't it's not a big deal. Angle iron is fairly cheap.



It's a really simple set-up and did the job for me. The hardest part was tracking down those rubber mounts.



Loren
 
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