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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) General P-7100 basics for novices

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I typed this up in reply to a PM, and didn't want to throw it away. So here's a copy.



Feel free to add/correct/otherwise.



Response to question about which trucks have 215's and how to they work:



I'm no expert, but this is what I've learned so far:



The one to have is the 96-98 manual. Those come with the 215 pump. I think you can buy a stock 215 pump from some suppliers for around $1000. Beefed up versions are much more.



With the 215 pump, you can get big power just with injectors and torque plate and GSK.



Of course you'll need a stout clutch and fix the KDP and 5th gear nut.



With any P-pumped truck, the torque plate and it's position determing "rack travel" which controls fuel delivery out of the pump. Then the injectors control the flows into the cylinder.



The AFC housing is the confusing part. It is "air fuel control". The Star Wheel is in the top part and controls the pre-load on a diaphram which is acted on by pressure (boost) from the manifold. This controls WHEN the fuel starts coming on relative to boost--which determines your pre and early boost smoke levels. TST sells a kit to make this setting more adjustable.



The torque plate is right under this. The plate profile determines fueling at a given RPM/load. The torque plate can be adjusted fore/aft for more rack travel.



The Governor is located down below this and has springs that are usually replaced to allow better throttle response. This usually isn't as big a deal on a 215--but it's my favorite bomb for the buck on a 160 or 180.



If you absolutely don't care how much smoke you make, then you can take out the rack stop which will de-activate the whole AFC thing.



Timing is another thing to fiddle with. Stock is somewhere around 12-13. Many of us run 15-16 and some run way more than that.



Confused yet?



Search and read until your eyes get red. I do. ;)

And lotso good stuff at Fritz's site.

http://www.dodgeram.org/support_pgs/diesel_ix.htm
 
If things workout you will get a chance to see what one will put out, I just slapped one on my truck to test, it's a bone stock one that has never been to a stand(which is an improvement) in my truck it's quite wicked on #2 or with water on too. As it stands it has a cut plate, . 022 DV's and 370's. Next week I'll drop in the EDM's as by then I'll have some good data... ..... this pump will be a hot seller!



Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
If things workout you will get a chance to see what one will put out, I just slapped one on my truck to test, it's a bone stock one that has never been to a stand(which is an improvement) in my truck it's quite wicked on #2 or with water on too. As it stands it has a cut plate, . 022 DV's and 370's. Next week I'll drop in the EDM's as by then I'll have some good data... ..... this pump will be a hot seller!



Jim



Why did you take off your PDR Race Pump for a stock 215 Jim? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Got Smoke? said:
Why did you take off your PDR Race Pump for a stock 215 Jim? :confused: :confused: :confused:



It was available and just to test!



I like the 215 but it should go to a stand to max out if anyone wanted everything out of it, it will make 1700 degrees(water on) at 85 psi using 370's though... ... . it is no joke and won't last long when it's time to sell it..... nope it's not mine, it's Piers's.



Jim
 
Hey, this was a thread for dummies--yall are cornfusing everbody.



Finally got the 215 (junkyard special) pump put on. It's 42x better than the 160.



I was running the 160 at 16 degrees (not enough) #4, 3k, 370's, B1-2. --for a "sluggish" 3xx? never dynoed.



Now I is running 215 at 15. 5, #4 (full back), 3k, 370's, B1-2--for a WHOLE NUTHER TRUCK! Feels just almost nearly as fast as my dynoed 473 truck. Probably IS quicker with the auto.



Bang for buck---this HAS to be it. Truck pulls better from bottom to top. The transmission feels much better now. Free shutoff solenoid included. ;) :-laf
 
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