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Generator Advice

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who lifted

When we had our class A (An 1988 37' Winnebago Elanden), we had a generator, and used it a couple of times when camping in the booneys. We didn't think we needed one when we bought the 5er, since we might boondock maybe 1-2 times a year, and we figured we could get by w/o generator.



Well, I guess we <em>can</em>, but we are now thinking about adding a generator back to our inventory, so that we can boondock for more than 2 days, if we want to (we found a great place with miles and miles of hiking and horse trails, but no electric hook-ups). Looking at the price of Onan RV generators, I figured I'd see what available on the portable market, and for how much.



I know a lot of people are using two Honda EU2000i in tandem (giving 4000W continuous, I believe). Personally, I think 4000W is a little on the low side, and, at $2000 they're not the most inexpensive solution either. On the positive side, they're light, and according to what I heard, very quiet.



Looking at what's available at Home Depot and Lowes, I found three potential candidates:



<b>Coleman PM0545005</b>, 5000W continuous, 6250W max, 11 hours @ 50% load on a 5gal tank of gas; 141lbs.



<b>Troy-built Lowes Item# 45428</b>, 5550W continuous, 8550W max, 10 hours @50% load on a 5gal tank of gas; ???lbs.



<b> Generac Heavy Duty 5500</b>, 5500W continuous, 8500W max, 12 hours @ 50% load on a 5gal <em>removable</em> tank of gas, ???lbs.



I figure with the 12000BTU A/C I need at a minimum 7550W max load, making the Coleman a little 'underpowered'. (Opinions?)



The Generac is nice because it has larger wheels, and the handle is above the wheels, i. e. you tilt down and push/pull (raises the non-wheel side). The Troy-built has smaller wheels and a handle on the other side, so you have to lift the weight and then push/pull. Both have 10hp Briggs & Stratton engines. In summary the Generac is larger, and seems to be easier to move around; which would be a plus for emergency power around the home (a requirement), but a negative to take along in the bed...



Anybody has any opinions? Suggestions? Hints?



Thanks.
 
watch out!

Z, be advised that those large, portable models w/ large B&S motors are very LOUD. You will get tired of the noise very quickly and so will any neighbors you have while camping. I have a Honda EU2000 and works great for dry camping. Small, quiet and lightweight. It is plenty big to run the microwave, charge the batts, and the most important thing of all, power up the better halfs blow dryer.



Sam
 
Zari,



My Honda EU2000 is a mere wisper compared to the GENERAC portable 5500W we use to run the house during power outages. My GENERAC is so loud that I wear hearing protection around it when it is running. Picking the GENERAC up to move it is a 2-able-person job at best... and lifting it in and out of a pickup bed is tough. We use the Honda for boating and the size/weight is just as amazing as the lack of noise. My vote would be for a RV unit 1st, if that is not what you want then I would recommend the Honda pair.
 
I saw a Yamaha EF3000iSEB, portable, on wheels, 152 lbs. , 51-57 dBA (extremely quiet, campground friendly), with "boost technology". Basically, it provides you with an extra 500 watts of power, from the starting battery, for ten seconds, to get the A/C started. I saw it start an A/C while two 500 watt halogen lamps were on, and then they started an air compressor. All 3 were running. 20. 5 Hours@1/4 load. Remote start available. 3. 4gals.
 
Advice

You had good results with Onon, buy another(they hold their value) and have it run off your propane system and then you don't have to mess with gas. As long as I have propane, my generator runs and it it very quiet.
 
Generator choice

Get a RV generator. It's worth it. The sound of a generattle portable will rattle you. Thats my $0. 02 worth.
 
I have the Coleman you mentioned from home depot.

I didnt buy it for camping, but it didnt have any problems running my A/C unit on my Wilderness ultralight. I dont know how many BTU's it is, but it's a 32' trailer.

Eric
 
Dumb question. Does price count?

If so... ... ... If your area has a Parts and Equipment Trader Weekly magazine they often have low hour, used generators for a fraction of the cost of a new one. I've seen 4K Onans from late model wrecked RV's for $500-$600 with documentation. If noise is a problem for you then a Honda LP model is very quiet. I walked past a trailer with one and I barely noticed it. Good shopping!
 
:D :D :D



Too funny klenger. I clicked on your link and when it "fired up" my dog came running. I think he thought we were going somewhere. :confused:
 
Another vote for purchasing a QUIET generator for boondocking. I have a Honda EU3000 and it was worth every penny because I can't hear it. My dad's Generac can be heard over my KX500... ... .



Brian
 
I have a generator in my camper. If I had it to do over again, I would have skipped the factory generator and purchased a Honda EU3000. Silence is golden.
 
I used to work at a camping dealership-a few times we "installed" portable class generators in or on campers to save money-on every occasion the owner hated the noise-listen to what these guys say about noise. As for propane only, they do run very clean, but a lot of places you get propane it's expensive. Winpro makes a 3 fuel (gasoline, natural, and propane) model, but they are probably also noisy. The Onans were always good.



Check out these guys:

http://www.northerntool.com/
 
Generac makes RV generators as well. Check them out



65. 5db @ 7 meters.



The EU3000 is 58db, but a little less power output.



Here is an explanation on what a DB of sound really is.



How do decibels relate to sound level?



The human ear's response to sound level is roughly logarithmic (based on powers of 10), and the dB scale reflects that fact. An increase of 3dB doubles the sound intensity but a 10dB increase is required before a sound is perceived to be twice as loud. Therefore a small increase in decibels represents a large increase in intensity. For example - 10dB is 10 times more intense than 1dB, while 20dB is 100 times more intense than 1dB. The sound intensity multiplies by 10 with every 10dB increase. Following is a list of dB readings from various sources to act as a non-scientific point of reference:



130dB - Jack Hammer (at 5ft)

120dB - Loud Rock Music (Also the pain threshold)

110dB - Riveter or a Heavy Truck at 50ft

100dB - Very Loud Classical Music

90dB - Heavy Traffic (at 5ft)

80dB - Heavy Traffic (at 40ft)

70dB - Department Store or a Noisy Office

60dB - Quiet Residential Street or background music

50dB - Light Traffic or an Average Residence

40dB - Very Soft Music

30dB - Quiet Auditorium

20dB - Faint Whisper (at 5ft)

10dB - Leaves rustling or a soundproof room / anechoic chamber
 
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