Geno"s painless wiring block.

[DavidGardner]

Thinking about buying a painless wiring block to hook up some stuff to my 99 Jeep Wrangler. You know, CB, heated jackets, ect. What I'm thinking is could I find this at Radio Shack? The Genos unit seems a little pricey for nothing more than a buss bar that you can hook wires up too.

Thanks in advance. I need your opinions.



Dave Gardner.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Dave,



You might give this a look...



http://www.painlessperformance.com/catalogframe.htm





Bill

 

[willyslover]

you can for sure beat the price doing a set up yourself. . via the radio shack route. . they don't have a Painless type set up, they have all the components to make up one though.



however the Painless set up you mention is a fully assembled powered fuse block and is and a sweet set up... most of us are not wire friendly and for the $$ the painless is much nicer than we could build. . kinda a paint by number set-up.



mine is mounted under the knee bolster below the steering wheel. . easy to get to to check out a fuse and out of sight... on the Jeep I'm sure there is a similar panel available to hide a mounting

 

[TomGolden]

I have 2 of the Painless kits, the weather-proof models, I got from Geno's over a year ago. I mounted both of them right to the lid of the master fuse box, under the hood, drivers side. They are very, very

 

[Oil Burner]

I have one of the weather-proof models like Tom and mine is mounted on the main fuse cover also. To me they are worth the money, kind of like having a remote starter installed by someone else

-Jason

 

[DavidGardner]

Thanks for all the replys. Looks like the "painless" is the way to go.

 

[y-knot]

You know looking back (which is always crystal clear), and thinking of all the stuff? (your wife might have a different word for it) we add to our trucks, a PainLess fuss block would have been the best first add. I never thought about adding one then, but I can now see how much nicer it would have been. The wiring would be much easier, neater, and nicer to label. The add-ons would have all the power come from a nice dedicated circuit which has it's own fuse. No more in-line fuses all over the place, some at the battery other under the dash, ect. I think for now on when someone ask what the first few things they should add, I'll just include the fuse block in with my reply. If, when I ever get a new truck, I guaranty it will be one of the first installs I make.

 

[mediccummin]

I 2nd that

Exactly what Y-knot said. After installing about 17 things that need power and fuses, I look back and wish I would of used one. I made my own but now that I just finally purchased the Painless kit, it would of been much easier. Now I have some rewiring to do. Later... .....

 

[TBrennan]

I agree having an auxillary block is the way to go. I had the painless block on my '96 and when I knew I would be getting a new truck I started building a super deluxe auxillary fuse block of my own. I wasn't too impressed with what you get with the painless kit.





I used various parts (mainly from waytekwire.com) but started with a 20 circuit --) ) fuse block, 2 10 slot screw terminal strips, and a bosch 75 amp relay. 14 of the fused circuits are powered from the 75 amp high power relay (which comes on with ignition run) and 6 are constant hot. These are mounted all in one custom box I made from 16 gauge sheet metal. Everytihng can now be connected via a ring terminal at the fuse block.



The custom enclosure is mounted under the dash using the existing bolts that hold the main body interface plug from the engine bay. It has a single 4 gauge wire going to an 80 amp circuit breaker mounted on another custom bracket I made next to the driver's side battery and is bolted down using an existing bolt. I just need to connect the short piece from the circuit breaker to the battery but I haven't done that yet as it's a tad cold out right now.



Anyways, if you want a real HD system that doesn't cost too much more (depending on what you want!) you can make your own and have it set up however you'd like.

 

[JLEONARD]

So I ask you guys with the weather proof models..... how would they be in a marine environment? They would be under a console that is normally protected by a canvas enclosure, but would be on a boat in a marina... rain,fog,saltyish air.

Jay

 

[kompressor]

For those that mounted the Painless wiring block in the engine compartment, where did you wire to for the switched power to the block?

 

[TomGolden]

Originally posted by kompressor

For those that mounted the Painless wiring block in the engine compartment, where did you wire to for the switched power to the block?

I went straight to the battery for both Painless blocks, through a 30A fuse of course

 

[Loren]

Jay,



This block is basically several sockets for fuses together with the fuses themselves. It has a rubber cover that fits snugly, but not tight. It would probably be subject to any corrosion problems you would have with any similar fuse block. It looks like it should be relatively splash-proof if it's mounted in the correct orientation, but I wouldn't want to test that all day long.



I would think that some dielectric grease on the contacts or some sort of spray on protectant should take care of most of your worries for marine use.



Good luck.



Loren

 

[JR2]

Originally posted by kompressor

For those that mounted the Painless wiring block in the engine compartment, where did you wire to for the switched power to the block?

I mounted my painless in the engine compartment and then ran the trigger for ingiton power into the cab and to the #16 (spare) fuse in the fuse pannel. It works great. On most trucks there is no fuse in #16, but the power is hooked up already.





JR2